When you guys fix rear axle seal....

[awpsome]

Where do you buy all the parts from? My buddies shop said parts from toyota was like $500 plus for just parts alone.
Then again i do have both sides leaking.

Thanks!


Also around average how much did you guys pay for parts and bearing all that new stuff to repress on the axel.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Where do you buy all the parts from? My buddies shop said parts from toyota was like $500 plus for just parts alone.
Then again i do have both sides leaking.

Thanks!


Also around average how much did you guys pay for parts and bearing all that new stuff to repress on the axel.

I buy all my parts from toyota of dallas (www.toyotspartssales.com). They have been the cheapest on every item I have bought, and they have been very helpful and responsive when I asked a question.

As far as tools, here is what I bought:
10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set

It worked pretty well, though it was a bit tough to drive it in straight. The seals themselves are pretty cheap, so if I had to do both sides, I'd get 4, so you can make some mistakes on the install. If you mess it up just a tiny bit, it will leak, so definitely worth having extras on hand.

Read the tutorial and document reference sticky. It has a link to some walkthroughs.

 

[Ghostrider]

Not sure what your friend is looking at for 500 bucks. The seals are cheap - I bought extra and that was all I needed. There are also some other items like bearings and ABS stuff but I didn't need that.

 

[YotaZach85]

As already stated the seals are cheap, if you're doing bearings and all you'll need the inner and outter axle seals, the bearing, 2 bearing reataining rings, and most like the ABS tone ring. If you're carefull and handy with a torch you can salvage the tone ring but it's suggested to replace the retaining rings.

 

[awpsome]

wait i did the oil seals but you guys dont reposition the axel bearings and such itself?
i changed the seals and it still leaks.. unless i did the wrong one? i did the inner and outter oil seals but then i was told from a shop that specifies on toyotas that the axel had to be repressed with all new components..

??? lost..

 

[awpsome]

?????

 

[econhonda]

If you're replacing only the inner seals, nothing else needs to be touched. If the bearings are shot, then you'll need all of the additional work including the bearing to be pressed on. If you're just seeing leaking, replace the inner seals and clean up/replace the brake shoes. Remember to use OEM inner seals though. They're no more expensive, and they have a better design. Don't make the mistake many of us have.

 

[awpsome]

I changed the inner seals and I'm still leaking. Does that means I have to get it repressed?

 

[Nelsonmd]

Ok, I think there is some serious confusion here...

circled in red is the axle oil seal that we are referring to. It only requires that you take off the 4 bolts that hold the axle in, you pull the axle out, and that oil seal is stuck in the axle housing. You pull it out and pound a new one back in. you don't touch the axle at all other than to slide it out.

Can you circle the parts that you changed? Nothing on the lower picture should be removable without a press.

 

[awpsome]

Thanks for the picture!
Okay so I changed the circled red inner oil seal. Cleaned up the brakes and everything and now couple weeks later I peak under and it's leaking again.
I checked it even more seems like what's picture on the bottom half, everything is pushed more outward of the vehicle and so it's not really pressing against the oil seal at all.

 

[econhonda]

Thanks for the picture!
Okay so I changed the circled red inner oil seal. Cleaned up the brakes and everything and now couple weeks later I peak under and it's leaking again.
I checked it even more seems like what's picture on the bottom half, everything is pushed more outward of the vehicle and so it's not really pressing against the oil seal at all.

A couple of things to consider (unless the bearing assembly is in fact pressed in the wrong location):

1: Make sure you haven't overfilled the diff. The vehicle should be on level ground when you fill it. If you put too much fluid in, it will push out the seal.

2: Did you use Toyota's OEM seal? I would for sure use the Toyota seal as it is designed differently than Napa/Autozone. Ask me how I know...

3: Be sure you drive the seal in cleanly. If you're using a screwdriver or any single point of contact, there is a chance you're damaging the seal. Use a seal driver or this.

If the problem is in fact that your wheel bearing isn't pushed in all the way, I would be surprised because the problems you're having would have manifested themselves long ago I would think. But who knows...

 

[Nelsonmd]

A couple of things to consider (unless the bearing assembly is in fact pressed in the wrong location):

1: Make sure you haven't overfilled the diff. The vehicle should be on level ground when you fill it. If you put too much fluid in, it will push out the seal.

2: Did you use Toyota's OEM seal? I would for sure use the Toyota seal as it is designed differently than Napa/Autozone. Ask me how I know...

3: Be sure you drive the seal in cleanly. If you're using a screwdriver or any single point of contact, there is a chance you're damaging the seal. Use a seal driver or this.

If the problem is in fact that your wheel bearing isn't pushed in all the way, I would be surprised because the problems you're having would have manifested themselves long ago I would think. But who knows...

I agree with these points, though there is more that could go wrong. I would go further on point 3 and say that install seems to be pretty sensitive. Go into the reference and tutorial sticky and click on BigFishAllDay's rear axle seal thread. He mentions in the re that it will leak if you drive the seal all the way in as it seals on a shoulder on the axle, not the smallest diameter shaft. Be sure you did everything right, and if you skimped anywhere, try it again.

If anything pressed on is coming off, I think you would have other problems.

Can you tell us a bit more about what you did?

 

[awpsome]

Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.

Okay so far I bought the inner oil seal circled in red you have above and then I took off the axel then pressed in the new oil seal pretty straight. I used a seal driver. What I'm guessing now is your saying that there is a way where it can be pressed in too much?

Also what's considered to much diff oil? I put it in on flat ground up till the fill hole.

 

[rjaudi]

Change your diff breather I have heard that can cause the seals to fail and is cheap.

 

[econhonda]

Also what's considered to much diff oil? I put it in on flat ground up till the fill hole.

Just don't refill it when it's up on jack stands, as it will take in too much fluid before it comes out the fill hole. Hopefully someone more qualified will answer your first question about if it's possible to driver the seal in too far. My thinking is that it isn't possible, but it is possible to hit it hard enough to actually bend the seal, or leave the seal too far out. Nelson?

 

[Nelsonmd]

Thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it.

Okay so far I bought the inner oil seal circled in red you have above and then I took off the axel then pressed in the new oil seal pretty straight. I used a seal driver. What I'm guessing now is your saying that there is a way where it can be pressed in too much?

Also what's considered to much diff oil? I put it in on flat ground up till the fill hole.

Ok, that paints the picture much better. What RJAudi and econhonda said are good ideas (do the diff breather extension mod while you're down there, even if you don't do river crossings, relocating it to the gas cap will help alot to keep it clean). I think you can overload a bit on oil and be fine, but if you breather is clogged and you have too much oil, then you might get in trouble.

As far as the install, I am certainly no expert but i have done it. 1st thing, check out BigFishAllDay's walkthrough. Post #6 talks about the proper depth. I recommend getting a proper straightedge and steel rule to check the depth (make sure the rule goes all the way to the end, so not a normal ruler). You can get a cheap 6" rule from harbor fright for pretty cheap (very worth it).

During install, I had trouble getting the seal started, it always wanted to go in a bit crooked. If it didn't go in all the way around with the first hit, it deformed slightly and I couldn't get the other side in; I would pull it out and try again being careful not to bend or nick it. Might help to take small taps an be patient trying to get it in, though in the end I think I whacked it pretty good to get it started. From there I repeatedly measured the depth all the way around (top/bottom/left/right should be sufficient) and tapped it in straight and slow until my final depth was met. I have had no leaks since then (I did it this spring, put on probably 10k miles on since then).

I bent 1 seal up trying it for the first time. Let us know how attempt 2 goes.

 

[z4r]

I had to do one recently and got my first seal butchered. Got a proper seal driver and the 2nd one worked ok so far. The tougher part was to remove the old seal (without a seal puller) without causing too much damage.

While the axle is out, it's important to regrease the bearing. If you're careful enough, you can pry open the plastic seal ring (from the inner edge). I repacked it with some Valvoline Syn power grease I have, and so far so good. Most of the original grease was already washed out, and I had to do quite a bit cleaning before putting new grease in.

 

[awpsome]

Ok, that paints the picture much better. What RJAudi and econhonda said are good ideas (do the diff breather extension mod while you're down there, even if you don't do river crossings, relocating it to the gas cap will help alot to keep it clean). I think you can overload a bit on oil and be fine, but if you breather is clogged and you have too much oil, then you might get in trouble.

As far as the install, I am certainly no expert but i have done it. 1st thing, check out BigFishAllDay's walkthrough. Post #6 talks about the proper depth. I recommend getting a proper straightedge and steel rule to check the depth (make sure the rule goes all the way to the end, so not a normal ruler). You can get a cheap 6" rule from harbor fright for pretty cheap (very worth it).

During install, I had trouble getting the seal started, it always wanted to go in a bit crooked. If it didn't go in all the way around with the first hit, it deformed slightly and I couldn't get the other side in; I would pull it out and try again being careful not to bend or nick it. Might help to take small taps an be patient trying to get it in, though in the end I think I whacked it pretty good to get it started. From there I repeatedly measured the depth all the way around (top/bottom/left/right should be sufficient) and tapped it in straight and slow until my final depth was met. I have had no leaks since then (I did it this spring, put on probably 10k miles on since then).

I bent 1 seal up trying it for the first time. Let us know how attempt 2 goes.

ill do the diff breather as well as try it again.. this time hopefully it works out. so basically that inner seal is the only one you guys change?
btw im on my iphone so its hard for me to check, but is the depth stated in his DIY thread?
Thanks ALOT i hope it works better this time around!

I had to do one recently and got my first seal butchered. Got a proper seal driver and the 2nd one worked ok so far. The tougher part was to remove the old seal (without a seal puller) without causing too much damage.

While the axle is out, it's important to regrease the bearing. If you're careful enough, you can pry open the plastic seal ring (from the inner edge). I repacked it with some Valvoline Syn power grease I have, and so far so good. Most of the original grease was already washed out, and I had to do quite a bit cleaning before putting new grease in.

is there a certain grease specific to buy? also how do i regrease it, or what im asking is you have tips? haha im not 100% sure how ill regrease it.

 

[z4r]

...
is there a certain grease specific to buy? also how do i regrease it, or what im asking is you have tips? haha im not 100% sure how ill regrease it.

Any name brand grease that specifically states suitable for wheel bearing should do. I also have some Pennzoil wheel bearing grease, I figured synthetic would be better, so I used SynPower grease in this case. I used PZ grease on others too as I like its tackiness/consistency.

I used a plastic toothpick to remove old dried grease gunk. Mine has little grease left, mostly turned into sludge/varnish looking crap. Once cleaned out, just push new grease in, spin the axle around, repeat. My bearing has quite a bit wobble, I'm hoping new grease will prolong the life as replacing bearing won't be easy or cheap.

 

[BTO]

Change your diff breather I have heard that can cause the seals to fail and is cheap.

I would like to do this. I have cleaned ours (a few times) but it still builds up a pressure no matter what. I don't think it should do that.