Which Mild Lift Setup Would You Do?

[Dwest]

Hello,

I have owned my 2019 TRDORP for a little over a month now and have spent the entire time researching and figuring out the best option for what I am after. I have finally decided on two options but am having a difficult time finalizing what lift setup would be best for me. Hopefully you can share some insight and maybe address some of the concerns I have. My goals are to gain slight lift, retain some rake while not affecting gas mileage too much as this is a DD. Sticking with Stock size tires and stock UCA's.

Option 1 - 1" Front and .5" Rear Lift

Bilstein 5100's all around with front set to .85" lift on stock coils

Rear .5" Cornfed Spacer.

Option 2 - 1.6" Front and 1" Rear Lift

Bilstein 5100's all around with Toytec/Eibach 112-620-P front Coil, strut at 0 lift.

Eibach E30-82-071-01-02 rear Coil for 1" lift.

Now here are my concerns. Would either or both of these setups leave me with the drivers side lean?

I've read of getting higher than advertised lift and am concerned by going with new coils front and back, I may end up with higher than 1.6" front or 1" rear.

Also with the coils, I'm wondering if it would create a harsher ride. Adding firmness is something the truck can use from the stock setup, but I don't want a harsh ride.

Of course some of these are subjective, but I greatly appreciate everyone's time to read and offer opinions.

Thanks

 

[pDubs]

Do you have KDSS? In your shoes, I'd go modified Option 1.

5100s all around, front set at .85. No spacer in rear.

 

[Jetboy]

Taller coil will make no difference. the 620lb spring rate will make some difference vs 580 stock, but I doubt you'll notice. If you're going with 5100's - save your money, adjust height via the built in adjustment. Rear would depend on how much weight you're going to be carrying and how often. You won't brick the rear spring with a .5" spacer, so it's mostly a question of whether you want 180lb spring rate or more like 220lb spring rate from the Eibachs. Both should work fine.

 

[hwnrunner]

You dont like the Fox set up on the Pro? I would lean towards option 2 but the full Eibach kit all around so everything is designed to work together. Address the potential lean later and just add a wheelers spacer as needed.

 

[pDubs]

You dont like the Fox set up on the Pro? I would lean towards option 2 but the full Eibach kit all around so everything is designed to work together. Address the potential lean later and just add a wheelers spacer as needed.

He has the TRD Off Road Premium, not TRD Pro.

 

[Dwest]

I do not have KDSS. I opted for for an ORP without since I knew I would be changing the suspension anyway. With no spacer in the rear, if I were to load up for a road trip, would I see any reverse rake? That was my motivation for adding the .5" spacer to the rear. I didn't want to have a sagging rear end if I were to load up with gear. Appreciate the quick response!

 

[pDubs]

I have a cornfed spacer in front (1" lift/level), otherwise stock suspension and with the rear loaded up with camping gear, even bike rack on, I don't see the rear sag at all giving reverse rake.

Given that, I'd be happy to go 5100s all around, front set at .85 to have same height truck currently has, but better shocks and reduced brake dive. I, however am thinking of going 33s and 2.5/1.5 lift so just did the level spacer for now.

Edit: If you find out later you want the rear .5 higher, popping the lower shock mount off, and adding the spring spacer is easy to do after the fact anyways.

 

[Jetboy]

OEM rear coils are ~180lb/in. Stock rake is around 1.5". So to get to "level" you'd have to add about 540lb or so (180lb*2springs*1.5inches) in the cargo area. If you're rake is less, you can adjust accordingly. The difference with the same 540lb rear cargo amount between the OEM springs and the Eibach would be 1/4 inch if they had the same starting point. If you add the 0.5 taller starting point of the eibach, you'll be 3/4 higher in the rear with 540lb load, and 1/2" higher empty.

 

[Dwest]

That looks great, especially considering you have gear and the bike and rack on. I am coming from an '07 Xterra that I had for 8 years. I am use to the weak leaf springs so anytime you add anything to the back, you get sag. Great to see that's not an issue with the 4runner. I'm beginning to lean towards doing the 5100's all around and front set to .85 on stock coils and leave the rear. I feel like this will give me a good base and it's extremely versatile so if I don't like it, I can change coils or even just go up to 1.75 in the front on stock coils and a 1" spacer rear for rather cheap.

I've read going coils on the 5100's set to 0 is a "better" setup, but as I said, I don't want to end up with 2" or 2 1/2" on the front and would be rather upset if that's where it came out. Seems the figures with the presets on the 5100's are pretty accurate.

 

[Dwest]

OEM rear coils are ~180lb/in. Stock rake is around 1.5". So to get to "level" you'd have to add about 540lb or so (180lb*2springs*1.5inches) in the cargo area. If you're rake is less, you can adjust accordingly. The difference with the same 540lb rear cargo amount between the OEM springs and the Eibach would be 1/4 inch if they had the same starting point. If you add the 0.5 taller starting point of the eibach, you'll be 3/4 higher in the rear with 540lb load, and 1/2" higher empty.

In all the reading and research I've done I have not come across this explanation. Thank you! This makes a lot of sense and now I feel like I have some understanding about the sag vs weight vs coil instead of it seeming like a bit of a mystery. The stock coils seem to be able to handle a pretty loaded cargo area.

 

[Jetboy]

5100 set to zero with a 1" taller spring or 5100 set to 1" height with the normal spring will literally be identical in function. There's a huge amount of misunderstanding about spring preload and spring rates. As long as you're within the spring's range of normal function, a 600lb spring will compress 1" for every 600lb of incremental force. It doesn't matter how long it is starting or ending as long as it doesn't fully compress or fully extend. In this case neither of those are an issue. So there would literally be no difference at all between setting the height via the shock spring mount or a longer spring.

 

[Jetboy]

In all the reading and research I've done I have not come across this explanation. Thank you! This makes a lot of sense and now I feel like I have some understanding about the sag vs weight vs coil instead of it seeming like a bit of a mystery. The stock coils seem to be able to handle a pretty loaded cargo area.

They're okay for a moderate amount of weight. The internal rubber bumpers act a lot like overload springs as well, so once you rest on those the effective rate goes up, unfortunately the ride quality goes down a bit too.

What you need to consider is that if you are loading up for a week off the grid it's easier than you think to end up with 1000+ lb of gear and people. Especially if you have something for example like 4 people (6-800lb) plus another 500lb of gear. All of the sudden you've got 1100lb of cargo - not all on the rear, but a fair amount. Then if you also hitch up a trailer with 300lb of tongue weight, now maybe you're looking at 800 or 900lb of extra weight on that rear axle. At that point you're going to be riding on the bump stops and it's not going to ride very well. It'll work, but not ideally. In that case you'd be better off with more like 300lb/in rear springs.

So it kinda just depends on your typical use. There's really not an ideal setup for everyone. But there's nothing wrong with starting out simple like you're doing and see if it works. If not you can always add rear spacers or longer rear coils for a bit more height.

Also just as an FYI - the front leverage ratio is about 2:1, so the front coils at 580lb/in translates to roughly 290lb/in effectively at each corner and 580lb/in combined up front vs the combined 360lb/in rear springs.

 

[Minneyota]

I went with the Bilsteins all around but slightly taller. 1.85" in the front and a 1.5" Daystar spacer in the rear. Stock size tires and stock UCAs. I've been pleased with the more firm ride without it being harsh. The pic will give you a frame of reference. My driveway has a slight slope which makes it look like the rear is lower than the front but that's not the case at all.

 

[MGordo]

Id also recommend going for a ride in both if possible... I had 5100's on my GX and found them too stiff. From the reviews it sounds like the Eibach setup rides better, and also are matched to go together.

 

[Harrisnc]

I think you’ll have a hard time finding an aftermarket front spring that nets under 2”. From my research everybody got at least that from the toyotec coils. If you use the factory coils on the bilstein or the eibach shocks you know what your end height will be and what ever drivers lean you have now( or don’t have) will be the same.

I used the eibach front shocks and their 3/4” rear spring for a 1.75/.9.

 

[the_economist]

Here is the set up I went with earlier this year, with all the details. I'm really happy with how it turned out, and was totally worth the time and money: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-...on-springs-lift-275-bfg-ko2s.html#post3367268

 

[CharlesNellis]

Dobinsons makes taller stock spring rate springs for front and rear. That's the route i went for a mild lift. Front 5100 at 1.75 with stock spring and rear 5100 with stock spring rate at 1.25" lift dobinsons spring.

Ride is not harsh at all, more like planted. Stock = soft, after = planted

 

[Dwest]

I think you’ll have a hard time finding an aftermarket front spring that nets under 2”. From my research everybody got at least that from the toyotec coils. If you use the factory coils on the bilstein or the eibach shocks you know what your end height will be and what ever drivers lean you have now( or don’t have) will be the same.

I used the eibach front shocks and their 3/4” rear spring for a 1.75/.9.

Harisnc,

Thank you for the photo! That setup looks like what I'm after. Appreciate your thoughts on the front coil. That's what I was running into as well, is people getting 2" or higher with just a coil. Not what I want.

I looked into the Eibach adjustable pro truck shocks and they are alittle more than the Bilsteins but seem to offer the same adjustment range. I'm looking at the PDF install instructions now, did you set them to the 1.6" front lift setting? To confirm, on stock coils, that netted you 1.75" front lift?

Also, do you have a part # for the 3/4" rear spring? The only one I was able to find states 1" of rear lift.

Thank you!

 

[Dwest]

Appreciate everyone's input on this, was a little worried as there is so much out there already I'd just be told to search more.

After some more replies I feel I'm leaning towards either the Bilsteins all around at 1.75 on stock coils and 1" spacer,

or

Eibach pro truck shocks all around with front at 1.6 with stock coils and the Eibach rear coil for 3/4 to 1" rear lift.

I'm thinking the Eibach setup might be a little better as with the new rear coil I would have a little more load capacity.

Again, thanks for everyone offering insight. This will be my first modified and lifted vehicle and just trying to avoid surprises and regrets.

 

[ebadai98]

I have the following and love it;
Bilstein 5100's all around
Front, Toytec 112-620-P front Coil 1.6” lift, strut at 0.
Rear, Wheelers T13 1.5” lift.
Camburg UCA Ball Joint