which Strut Spring Compressor works on 880s?

HappyHooligan

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Well after hours of trying, the rental compressor wouldn't come out of the OME 880 running a 5100 on setting 3, or setting 2, or even setting 1.

What compressor works with a 10 coil, coil running a 5100?

Basically this style doesn't work on OME 880's. Once you compress it, you can't get the feet out.

shopping
 
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Well after hours of trying, the rental compressor wouldn't come out of the OME 880 running a 5100 on setting 3, or setting 2, or even setting 1.

What compressor works with a 10 coil, coil running a 5100?

Basically this style doesn't work on OME 880's. Once you compress it, you can't get the feet out.

shopping

I went and bought a Branick 7600 for home use. I would like to try a Strut Tamer 6637 to see how it compares. I had one of those Amazon 2 ton strut compressor for around $100-150, it barely worked on OME 883's, hence the Branick 7600 purchase found on CL which easily compressed OME's and my Fox 650#'s, 700#'s.
 
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Or just take them to a shop and have them do it and NOT spend $500-$900 on the equipment listed above.


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I had the same issue with a set of FJC coils.

Try that 'no spring compressor' method floating around here.
It actually works really well.


Your just basically using the runner as the compressor.
 
Trying to compress lift springs onto Toyota front struts is one of the hardest things, they have to compress super far and the springs are super stiff. If you don't have a stand up spring compressor (600$+) at your disposal, just take everything to a local shop that does and pay the 40 or so bucks they charge. It's worth it.

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another question, is I bought the strut mount (napa) but it didn't come with the top cushion and I'll have to either use my old one or get a new one? Where do I find that top cushion? I've been looking but I can't find it.
 
another question, is I bought the strut mount (napa) but it didn't come with the top cushion and I'll have to either use my old one or get a new one? Where do I find that top cushion? I've been looking but I can't find it.

I'm pretty sure I bought mine at the Toyota dealer. I don't think they were too pricey, but it's been 5 years...

If yours is still in reasonable shape you should be able to reuse it. It is there to centre/hold/cushion the strut top rod and a new one would not significantly improve anything.

Also once the strut is back in the truck that cushion can be taken out just by removing the strut rod top nut. You could always put in a new one later.
 
Macpherson strut compressor. Made easy work of my 675s and they aren't sketchy either, cost about 100 bucks.
 
Well after hours of trying, the rental compressor wouldn't come out of the OME 880 running a 5100 on setting 3, or setting 2, or even setting 1.

What compressor works with a 10 coil, coil running a 5100?

Basically this style doesn't work on OME 880's. Once you compress it, you can't get the feet out.

shopping

I think you're doing it wrong. If I were you I'd stop and let a shop do it. I used this same exact style that I rented from O'Reilly's on my 880s about a month ago with no issues. I had 5100s on the second perch.
 
I have to agree with the no compressor method. Once you start doing it this way you will never use a spring compressor again. Put the frame up high on jack stands. Put a floor jack under the hub. remove the wheel,swaybar and the 4 bolts for the lower ball joint. Remove the lower shock bolt using the floor jack to remove tension and then the middle nut on the top of the shock. When you lower the floor jack completely the spring and shock come out separately. Reverse to install. There is definitely not a lot of room when you are installing taller springs which is why removing the ball joint helps. For just a little extra work when you are removing your shock assembly you can do it in one piece or separate the spring and shock
 
My step dad bought me a Matco clamshell style spring compressor at a garage sale for 5 bucks. Looks like it had maybe been used once.

Looks like this but is red not purple.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/M7560/clamshell-strut-tool/

Haven't used it yet but I'd imagine it works a lot better than the hook/screw types you can rent an auto parts store.

I'm sure a local suspension shop wouldn't charge much at all to do the work if you bring them the parts. This is one of those things where if you don't have the right tools, better off letting the pro's do it. It can be extremely dangerous if one of those springs comes flying out!
 
I have to agree with the no compressor method. Once you start doing it this way you will never use a spring compressor again. Put the frame up high on jack stands. Put a floor jack under the hub. remove the wheel,swaybar and the 4 bolts for the lower ball joint. Remove the lower shock bolt using the floor jack to remove tension and then the middle nut on the top of the shock. When you lower the floor jack completely the spring and shock come out separately. Reverse to install. There is definitely not a lot of room when you are installing taller springs which is why removing the ball joint helps. For just a little extra work when you are removing your shock assembly you can do it in one piece or separate the spring and shock

Also block/support (jackstand) the diagonal rear so the suspension is not trying to fight you, So if you working on the driver front then put a jack stand on the passenger rear and vise-a-versa.

I thought this method sounded all sketchy and a bad idea until I tried it.
Personally think its a safer way to go than the china made spring compressors.
Just make sure you have your runner well supported.
As a matter of safe work practice don't place you body parts directly under something that could potentially crush you.
Work safe.
Save money and do it your self.
I bought 2 different coil compressors...that didn't work. pfft
 
Also block/support (jackstand) the diagonal rear so the suspension is not trying to fight you, So if you working on the driver front then put a jack stand on the passenger rear and vise-a-versa.

I thought this method sounded all sketchy and a bad idea until I tried it.
Personally think its a safer way to go than the china made spring compressors.
Just make sure you have your runner well supported.
As a matter of safe work practice don't place you body parts directly under something that could potentially crush you.
Work safe.
Save money and do it your self.
I bought 2 different coil compressors...that didn't work. pfft

wish I had known this method at the time. used those two bar hook compressors and it was scaring the crap out of me the entire time
 
wish I had known this method at the time. used those two bar hook compressors and it was scaring the crap out of me the entire time
When I swapped out for '99 talls the coils were so tight I couldn't get the hooks to fit in..So all I did was back the bolt all the way out angle and slide the hooks in put the bolt back through the top and to the threads and cranked it down..worked fine! Also kept the top hat on with the nut tightened a couple turns and vise grips holding the spring to the base so it wouldn't twist on the lower perch or come flying off. And make sure you over compensate for the added length of the coil being taller that you don't run out of threads DECOMPRESSING it..yeah it is a little sketchy but after awhile I didn't hardly think about it because I did everything I possibly could to know it was safe. Good luck!
 
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I think you're doing it wrong. If I were you I'd stop and let a shop do it. I used this same exact style that I rented from O'Reilly's on my 880s about a month ago with no issues. I had 5100s on the second perch.

what are you running on the back? I've got 906. Just trying to figure out if the 2nd or 3rd perch is best.
 
I used compressors on the driver's side and the no compressor method on the passenger side. The compressor method took three times as long.

There are also some great benefits using the no compressor trick. On the driver's side (compressors used) my indexing of the top plate/mount was a bit off and I had to do the compressing a 2nd time to rotate the upper plate so that the lower shock bushing would line-up with the mount -- what a PITA. This is not an issue with the no compressor method plus you get to inspect your LBJ close up and personal.

Hats off to the person who created and posted the no compressor technique

Note.
I used 3 compressors on the spring just because of paranoia. One tip for the threaded rod style compressors: to make it easier to remove a stuck "jaw" from between the coils you can remove the threaded rod then slide the "jaw" up or down the coil for a wide space to remove it.

TT
 
I used compressors on the driver's side and the no compressor method on the passenger side. The compressor method took three times as long.



There are also some great benefits using the no compressor trick. On the driver's side (compressors used) my indexing of the top plate/mount was a bit off and I had to do the compressing a 2nd time to rotate the upper plate so that the lower shock bushing would line-up with the mount -- what a PITA. This is not an issue with the no compressor method plus you get to inspect your LBJ close up and personal.



Hats off to the person who created and posted the no compressor technique



Note.

I used 3 compressors on the spring just because of paranoia. One tip for the threaded rod style compressors: to make it easier to remove a stuck "jaw" from between the coils you can remove the threaded rod then slide the "jaw" up or down the coil for a wide space to remove it.



TT



You can simply rotate the lower shock mount with a larger screwdriver. it’s simple. That’s all I did.


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