Which Toyota Coolant Do I Use? Red or Pink?

RidingDirty

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Hey I'm about to replace the timing belt and water pump in my 1996 4runner. I spend most of my time making sure I understand the process and have the correct tools/parts. But it looks like I totally missed the part where Toyota has red and pink coolant options.

My understanding is that the red coolant was used on older models and consists of IAT (inorganic acid technology). The red coolant had molybate and triazole to protect the metals (copper, etc.) in the older radiators. The red coolant is what you want if your vehicle has aluminum, cast-iron, copper, or brass parts in its cooling system. The older Toyotas usually have non-aluminum radiators and Pink is not formulated with the inhibitors necessary to protect them.

The pink coolant wasn't used until early 2000's and has OAT (organic acid technology) which typically lasts longer. If you have a modern Toyota with an aluminium cooling system, Pink is probably the coolant you want to go for.

For example the 5vz engine (3.4L V6) has a cast iron engine block and non-aluminum radiator. This originally came with red coolant. The next generation 4runners had 1GR engine (4.0L V6) which has an aluminum engine block and aluminum radiator. These originally came with pink coolant. I don't know anything about the heater core materials.

But my confusion is due to the fact that I bought a new all aluminum radiator from Koyorad (VH010665N). Will the red coolant not protect the aluminum radiator properly? Will the pink coolant not protect my cast iron engine block properly? So now I'm all confused.

So should I use Toyota red or pink? Or should I just say screw Toyota for being confusing and just use Zerex Asian? Thanks.

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I use Toyota Red long life antifreeze. Toyota pink is the newer formulation of the antifreeze.

You can use any antifreeze of your choosing. I just prefer that lo g life red.

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you can use either the yellow/green or the red or pink coolants. But don't mix them. if your vehicle currently has yellow/green, and you want to use the red or pink, then you need to thoroughly flush the cooling system first before pouring the red/pink coolant.
Also, if you have bronze or brass fittings in your cooling system, then you should not use the red or pink coolant. stick with the yellow/green

I use the Toyota Pink coolant.
 
I ran Toyota red initially. It ran between 188-189. Idled at 189.
Changed timing belt and associated parts. New upper, lower rad hose, thermostat with jiggle at 6 o clock and rad cap.
Exchanged with Zerex asian red cause Toy Red was had supply chain issues and Zerex was on sale $12 a gal. It runs a normal 190-194 now.
Will be going back to Toy Red LL on the next change out.
 
My motor was running a little hot and I was thinking of changing the coolant. A crusty old (couple years younger than me) radiator shop owner once told me an engine should run at the same temp with straight distilled water or 'coolant' He said that a thermostat'll open when it opens and engineered coolant is just more resistant to boiling and freezing than water. I still went right out and bought Toyota coolant when I swapped my radiator and thermostat and cap. Just sharing, not agreeing, but did he have a point?
 
My motor was running a little hot and I was thinking of changing the coolant. A crusty old (couple years younger than me) radiator shop owner once told me an engine should run at the same temp with straight distilled water or 'coolant' He said that a thermostat'll open when it opens and engineered coolant is just more resistant to boiling and freezing than water. I still went right out and bought Toyota coolant when I swapped my radiator and thermostat and cap. Just sharing, not agreeing, but did he have a point?

Some points but not entirely correct, imo. Engineered coolant cannot change boiling temp, science and nature are what they are. Now a solidly sealed cooling system can "raise" boiling points thru pressure. Of course an engineered coolant will lower the freezing point or we'd all be in lots of trouble.

Overall its not a good suggestion to use only distilled water, things will rust, LOL.
 
I personally use distilled water because of zero minerals in the water. This is reason for using it. Minerals in spring water can build up and cause issues within the system.

However, folks can use whatever water they wish. It's their rig. :)



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1996-early1999 (1998 build) OEM spec was Ethylene Glycol, Late 1999-02 Red long life for no other reason except Toyota standardized it to Toyota Long life for all Toyotas. And radiator fluid 50/50 mix does raise the boiling point buy 10*F with pressure removed from the equation. Mine had the green originally and I put in toyota red, I noticed the red can develop this white powder when a leak happens, Ethylene Glycol doesn't, switched back to preston green 10 years ago and then recently to Preston yellow Universal. So it doesn't matter really.
 
Some points but not entirely correct, imo. Engineered coolant cannot change boiling temp, science and nature are what they are. Now a solidly sealed cooling system can "raise" boiling points thru pressure. Of course an engineered coolant will lower the freezing point or we'd all be in lots of trouble.

Overall its not a good suggestion to use only distilled water, things will rust, LOL.

Yep. I think he was saying "kid, changing your coolant isn't going to fix an underlying issue - you might as well run water."
 
As Endlessblockades mechanic was trying to say, and what I understand to be true is that the type of coolant or just water is not going to change the temperature that the engine runs at. The thermostat, fan and radiator are going to control the running temp.
With that said, my 97 came with green coolant that ran at 183-185 deg. and I just recently put in a new radiator and thermostat(6 O'clock). I did a complete flush of the system and used
Toyota pre-mix from my local dealer. I suspect I unintentionally installed a different temperature thermostat, because I'm running about 8 degrees hotter than before.
At 190-192 deg, I'm not going to change it. But I might change it later this year when I do the timing belt and junk.
 
[MENTION=111483]stuckinthemud[/MENTION]

You may have replaced an extra-cool thermostat (from a previous owner?) with the correct one. I believe they are 185 from the factory. My rig will show anywhere from 186.6 to a high of 192, but I've never seen a reading below 186 when the cooling system is working. Just a thought - not an expert....
 
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Red and Pink from Toyota are compatible. Red requires dillution for 50/50, Pink is premixed.

If you add Pink to a Red system, you have to keep the shorter Red change interval, but nothing else needs to be changed.

TSB PG010-02

There are some later subtleties with the right FIPG to use with each coolant, etc. which doesn't apply to the 5VZ.

-Charlie
 
Red and Pink from Toyota are compatible. Red requires dillution for 50/50, Pink is premixed.

If you add Pink to a Red system, you have to keep the shorter Red change interval, but nothing else needs to be changed.

TSB PG010-02

There are some later subtleties with the right FIPG to use with each coolant, etc. which doesn't apply to the 5VZ.

-Charlie







good points here.. we ( [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] ) got a print out from Toyota today saying a 2001/2002 takes the longlife PINK... and they tried to look up 96-00 but it didn't have a definitive statement in their system like the 01/02 had...

I think we chalked it up to the style of head gasket the different years use and the different style coolants can not be compatible with the 2 diff coolants....





I think the general consensus here in this thread is both will work, but with any coolant change, you want to have multiple rounds of flushing the coolant system with distilled water before you put a different style coolant in.



I mixed Zerex Cooling System Antifreeze Coolant with my existing mix or red and pink in my truck after a radiator failure and it worked fine but would recommend using a consistent coolant rather than mixing a bunch of different types.











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My mechanic put green in when I got a new radiator and I want to go back to red.

Is there any merit that tap water can cause an iron block to rust from the inside out?

How many times should I flush the system before I add the coolant?

And will flushing the system out also help my heater core? (I don't have any issues)

Either way I'm using distilled water. I do know that pure water does tend to run cooler than a 50/50 mix, but you have to worry about freezing. Pure coolant will freeze at a higher temperature than a diluted mixture too btw.
 
My mechanic put green in when I got a new radiator and I want to go back to red.

Is there any merit that tap water can cause an iron block to rust from the inside out?

How many times should I flush the system before I add the coolant?

And will flushing the system out also help my heater core? (I don't have any issues)

Either way I'm using distilled water. I do know that pure water does tend to run cooler than a 50/50 mix, but you have to worry about freezing. Pure coolant will freeze at a higher temperature than a diluted mixture too btw.

I think recommendation of avoiding tap water is due to the risk of accumulating mineral deposits that could create issues in the cooling system. As for the heater core, the important thing is to make sure you get all the air out of the system.

My thoughts, use distilled water if you are able to. If distilled water isn't available, flushing with tap water is probably better than running a dirty system. Flush until the water coming out is clear or clear enough. My experience has been about 4x before the water looked mostly clear.
 
Is there any merit that tap water can cause an iron block to rust from the inside out?
Basically the same as distilled water - but only if you leave it in there alone!

I have left water only (distilled) in a cooling system for a week or two (while testing things after motor swaps, knowing I'll very soon be swapping out to coolant) with no ill effects.

-Charlie
 

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