tacticalcustoms
New member
So I ran this stuff yesterday and seemed to do the trick but nowhere does it say to flush afterwards or just leave in. Can someone give me there two cents:boink:
White shepherd and transfer case
- Thread starter tacticalcustoms
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Leave it in, to my knowledge.
tacticalcustoms
New member
Okay great bit seemed to work really well and better then paying but load at the stealership
03_4x4Runner
Senior Member
Keep us updated if this is a long term cure.
tacticalcustoms
New member
update
okay so now its been a couple days and the leak has gone from a 2-3 inch circle to about the size of a quarter if that. I'm pleased that it seems to be working and it only cost 20.00 compared to the repair cost of a new actuator. :guitar3:
okay so now its been a couple days and the leak has gone from a 2-3 inch circle to about the size of a quarter if that. I'm pleased that it seems to be working and it only cost 20.00 compared to the repair cost of a new actuator. :guitar3:
Zuke
Member
Keep driving it and work the 4hi/lo and diff lock to keep the sealant moving and filling the gaps. Also wash/clean the transfer case because most of the drips coming after the treatment is residue dripping from the skid plate.
Zuke
Member
My update from using the White Shepherd (WS) in the transfer case for the actuator leak.
I developed a rear output seal leak (seal between t-case and rear d-shaft) about 2 months after adding the WS into the T-case. I had the output seal replaced and kept most of the gear oil (with WS added) in the T-case. The rear output seal leak returned after a week after it was repaired. I drove around with the rear output leak for 2 months routinely topping off the t-case with gear oil at every gas fill up. I did not notice any oil leaking from the actuator. I finally went to a different shop (thinking the first one screwed up) and had the rear output seal changed again. When they pulled the 2 month old seal out it was swollen to almost 2x its normal size. I told them about the WS and they said that it must have swollen the seal and caused it to fail. So they drained the gear oil out of the T-case and noticed the WS settled on top of the gear oil in the drain pan. I am guessing the WS stopped the actuator leak but caused this leak. The shop said to watch the front output shaft because if the seal has swollen it will fail at any time too.
So all of you that have WS in their T-cases be warned. You should drain and fill with 100% gear oil ASAP. I am going to write to the makers of WS and see if they can do to prevent this.
I developed a rear output seal leak (seal between t-case and rear d-shaft) about 2 months after adding the WS into the T-case. I had the output seal replaced and kept most of the gear oil (with WS added) in the T-case. The rear output seal leak returned after a week after it was repaired. I drove around with the rear output leak for 2 months routinely topping off the t-case with gear oil at every gas fill up. I did not notice any oil leaking from the actuator. I finally went to a different shop (thinking the first one screwed up) and had the rear output seal changed again. When they pulled the 2 month old seal out it was swollen to almost 2x its normal size. I told them about the WS and they said that it must have swollen the seal and caused it to fail. So they drained the gear oil out of the T-case and noticed the WS settled on top of the gear oil in the drain pan. I am guessing the WS stopped the actuator leak but caused this leak. The shop said to watch the front output shaft because if the seal has swollen it will fail at any time too.
So all of you that have WS in their T-cases be warned. You should drain and fill with 100% gear oil ASAP. I am going to write to the makers of WS and see if they can do to prevent this.
Last edited:
tacticalcustoms
New member
great..... i guess i'll be doing that this weekend 
