Who does their own oil change?

[Kmvreter]

... but i can't seem to find the drain plug for the engine...

No need to remove a skid plate. Move back one more skid and look through the oval cutout (that may or may not have a plastic insert cover; remove this cover if it's there.) The drain plug is right there.
Don't mistake the transmission drain plug that is still further back but there is no skid plate for it.

 

[coolpop]

I ALWAYS change my own oil and have been doing it for 20 years. Way too many horror stories about Jiffy Lube and other places that employ 18 year olds who could give a shit less about your ride. Plus, I put in the oil I like, use a filter that I like, and I know it's done right.

I also use an oil extractor like the one here http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...6_liter&str=oil extractor&merchID=1008&r=view

Really makes it sooooooooo easy to do. No getting under the truck, no drip pan necessary, nothing. Just take out the dipstick, insert hose into the crankcase and suck all the oil out. No hassle, no mess.

This is the greatest invention ever.

 

[pickerdd]

I am curious about greasing the driveshafts how often and where are the fittings located? Mine is a 2008 4WD Limited.

I started greasing both my front and rear driveline shafts at 10k miles because the driveline "clunk" started to appear. Greasing both drive shafts in the V8 4WD seems to be a (the?) necessary part of getting rid of the drive line "clunk" in our trucks.

 

[pickerdd]

I change my own oil and filter on all 3 of our vehicles.

I change my 4Runner's oil at 5k miles. I use Mobil 1 synthetic and a Toyota V8 filter (the one from Japan). I installed a Fumoto valve during my first oil change at 5k and it makes changing the oil a little easier and helps control the flow of oil into the drain pan. The most complicated aspect of changing the oil on my V8 4WD is removing the dang front skid plate and that isn't rocket science just a bit of a pain. I use a set of ramps for the oil change and lube. I drive the front wheels up on the ramps then have easy access to the undercarriage.

As I stated in a previous post I started lubing the driveline shafts every 5K miles to address the driveline "clunk" problem. It helps!

After I change the oil and the filter and lube the truck I take it over to Discount tire to have the tires balanced and rotated. Every 5k.

 

[boozng]

No need to remove a skid plate. Move back one more skid and look through the oval cutout (that may or may not have a plastic insert cover; remove this cover if it's there.) The drain plug is right there.
Don't mistake the transmission drain plug that is still further back but there is no skid plate for it.

hey thanks alot, that was very helpful.

 

[djj1973]

Just out of curiousity, what do you torque your oil drain plug to after an oil change ? I've been doing 18-20 ft lbs on my '07 V6 with the drain plug gasket purchased from the dealer with the oil filter. I use 5w-30 Castrol Syntec. It's never dripped on the driveway yet but every couple days I take a paper towel and wipe around the drain plug and get some oil on it. It should be dry. I'm just afraid to over tighten the plug then be really screwed...

DJJ

 

[G.I.G.]

I change my own oil as well. I've seen and heard of too many incidents where something gets screwed up at those quick-lube places. Plus, I think He-Man gave up his cartoon career to work at Jiffy-Lube because every time I go to do an oil change on my fiancee's car after she has taken it to one of those places, the drain plug and oil filter feel like they were welded in place. :bash:

Regarding torquing, I have never used a torque wrench for the drain plug, however "snug" is the best approach I have found. I have never had leaking that way and never had a difficult time getting it off for the next oil change. I replace the washer with each oil change because they are super cheap, even if you can technically reuse some of them. Also, the filter should be hand tightened because it has a rubber o-ring. The tighter you tighten an oil filter (or anything with a rubber o-ring) the more likelihood you will have a leak.

 

[Kmvreter]

... Also, the filter should be hand tightened because it has a rubber o-ring. The tighter you tighten an oil filter (or anything with a rubber o-ring) the more likelihood you will have a leak.

I just tighten it as per the directions printed on the D3 filter. Eyeball another 3/4 turn once the O-ring makes contact.

 

[mike508]

Oil Change

I have never replaced the washer in my 06 or in any car I have previously had and it has never been a problem. I have yet to be convinced that synthetic oil is worth the extra cost.
When I change the oil (<5000 mi) I also grease the driveline which is a real pain and takes more time than the oil change. I generally have to remove the plate below the front of the transfer case. Someone asked about when to change the filter. The answer is every oil change. You don't want clean oil going through a dirty filter.

 

[SLED]

i work with cars all day the last thing i want to do is work on my car.

^ Makes sense. But had to laugh. Just like carpenters' homes are never done, and doctors who smoke. I bet when the telemarker gets home, s/he doesn't answer the phone.

 

[hoggy]

Originally posted by franco
i work with cars all day the last thing i want to do is work on my car.

But I bet money you do any way because I'm sure you hate fixing other peoples FU's worse especially if it's on your stuff.

 

[PAULUNM]

I change mine every 3k miles (I'm @nal...) with Mobil 1 5w 30 and a NAPA gold (Wix) oil filter.

How are you guys lubing your drive shafts??

 

[SLED]

. . I also use an oil extractor like the one here http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...6_liter&str=oil extractor&merchID=1008&r=view

Really makes it sooooooooo easy to do. No getting under the truck, no drip pan necessary, nothing. Just take out the dipstick, insert hose into the crankcase and suck all the oil out. No hassle, no mess.

This is the greatest invention ever.

Whoa, just looked at this. What exact brand and model do you use? So this leaves the same or less old oil in your engine as draining? (Still have to get under the vehicle to change the oil filter.) I almost can't believe how good this is supposed to be, and can't believe my dad (my original mentor) doesn't use this - he's been changing his own oil since, forever . .

By the way, the greatest invention ever is sliced bread, after the wheel.

 

[SLED]

Someone at work had a oil change and they forgot to put the oil in, they did pay for a new engine. Once, a friend saw oil coming out of his hood. When we stopped, the oil cap was off and to the side, it had not fallen off. He just had a oil change at the dealership.

I had a mishap once, I put the wrong Honda filter on. I had a Civic and an Accord. It leaked after I started it. I took the filter off and quickly put a new one on. I cleaned up the mess and made sure the oil level was right. So, I guess these things happen.

Similar story with my old Honda. A lube place forgot to put the cap back on - oil got spewed everywhere. AND, I had a magnetic drain plug before that oil change, and found out 6 months later it got replaced with a cheap non-magnetic drain plug - ***ker stole my magnetic drain plug! :cannon:

 

[Rover+Runner]

A trick I use when removing the oil filter to keep a clean garage floor is to hold a garbage bag under the whole filter assembly (V6) with one hand and then drop the filter right in after loosening it with the other. If you want to get fancy you can remove the black cap on the bottom of the filter assembly and the excess oil will drain directly into the bag (I'm usually too lazy and just wipe up any excess oil with a rag.)

Here's a diagram of where the drain plug is located on the V6:

if the diagram's too small pm me and I can email it. (The original .pdf is too large to attach)

 

[Border411]

Hey man (Yes everyone, I am still around after a long break!)

I always do my own oil changes as that allows me to knwo exactly how much oil is going in, draining out, and what the quality of the oil and filters are. I use Mobil 1 Extended performance 5w-30 and either Puralator PureOne or Fram Tough Guard filters. To change the oil I just put the front tires on the curb in front of my house, and use the Fram SureDrain (SD3) to drain the oil. I can do the hole change in 10 minutes with ZERO tools. I also replace the filter after 5000 miles, with the oil being changed every 10k. That is when I grease the drive shafts front and rear.

Just an FYI---my wife has a 2006 v6 Highlander which also takes the SD3 SureDrain and even the same filter and oil! Makes life really easy!

 

[jstutz101]

Decided to change my on oil. First time since buying the car used. First thing I notice is the front of the car is a lot lower then you think it would be. The second thing I noticed was the clamp came loose holding the CV boot on the drivers side. Did a search here and low and behold a few people have had the same problem. Needless to say my first oil change took a lot longer and was WAY messyer then I planned. (That CV grease gets EVERWHERE!)

I suspect if I took it to the 2 minute oil change place no one would notice the large amount of grease splattered behind the front driver side wheel well.

 

[coolpop]

Whoa, just looked at this. What exact brand and model do you use? So this leaves the same or less old oil in your engine as draining? (Still have to get under the vehicle to change the oil filter.) I almost can't believe how good this is supposed to be, and can't believe my dad (my original mentor) doesn't use this - he's been changing his own oil since, forever . .

By the way, the greatest invention ever is sliced bread, after the wheel.

LOL. OK, maybe not the greatest invention ever, but it sure makes life easy when it comes to oil changes.

I bought mine from Overton's years ago. It's an older version, not pictured here, but still running strong. I don't think you can go wrong with whatever model you pick.

Let us know if you decide to get one. I'd really be interested in your opinion.

 

[dsstark]

My 07 4Runner is easy to change the oil. I take my Accord to the dealer, but not my 4Runner.

I use two short pieces of 2x8 laid flat and drive up on them. This give me just enough room to crawl under and get my drain pan to clear the frame cross member.

It is just easier than going to the dealer, which is across town or going to a quick oil place.

 

[MileHi 4R]

DIY for me. 5 qts of Mobil 1 at WM costs $26.00, Toyota filter less than $5.00. Add a $10 rebate from Mobil 1 and I get a quality oil change for less than $25.

My drain plug didn't have a washer on it. Lost from a previous change? I bought my 08 used so that's what I'm guessing.