who else has the dreaded clunk ???

TheWraith

TheWraith

New member
I know the TRD Pro has the dreaded clunking noise in the front of their suspension. I've read a bunch of threads about the clunking noise on the 4th gen's... but not really the 5th gens.

But after getting a proper alignment yesterday. I now have the dreaded clunking noise in my front and the rear.

My clunking noise only happens when I'm going slower than 10mph. Or from a dead stop and I start rolling... I usually have my music on pretty loud and don't hear this.


Anyone else have this issue ??? What was your fix ??? There was one guy said it was due to KDSS low pressure. I almost want to tear that out if it is....
 
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i have just over 7K miles on my TRDP and i have not noticed any clunk from either the front or back. i'm either deaf, dumb, lucky, or a bit of everything??
 
TheWraith said:
I know the TRD Pro has the dreaded clunking noise in the front of their suspension. I've read a bunch of threads about the clunking noise on the 4th gen's... but not really the 5th gens.

But after getting a proper alignment yesterday. I now have the dreaded clunking noise in my front and the rear.

My clunking noise only happens when I'm going slower than 10mph. Or from a dead stop and I start rolling... I usually have my music on pretty loud and don't hear this.


Anyone else have this issue ??? What was your fix ??? There was one guy said it was due to KDSS low pressure. I almost want to tear that out if it is....
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What exactly are you doing when you experience the clunk? The KDSS Low Pressure Clunk I experience in my wife's GX470, only occurs when I am going over uneven terrain offroad, or when I go over a bump or pothole on only one side. If I go over a speedbump or rut with both front and both rear wheels, it won't clunk, but if I go over the same speed bump or rut with just the driverside or pass side, it will clunk. My uneducated guess is that the play in the KDSS system due to the low pressure, causes excess movement in the swaybars, when one side moves up or down.

Also, how long have you had your Icon suspension, since the noise started occurring? I do wounder how lifting a KDSS equipped vehicle, which moves the position of the swaybars, effects the system, and if anything needs to be compensated for.

If it just started after getting an alignment done, it is likely that whoever did it, didn't tighten all of the bolts. If that is the case, I would start there.
 
Whiplash Willy said:
What exactly are you doing when you experience the clunk? The KDSS Low Pressure Clunk I experience in my wife's GX470, only occurs when I am going over uneven terrain offroad, or when I go over a bump or pothole on only one side. If I go over a speedbump or rut with both front and both rear wheels, it won't clunk, but if I go over the same speed bump or rut with just the driverside or pass side, it will clunk. My uneducated guess is that the play in the KDSS system due to the low pressure, causes excess movement in the swaybars, when one side moves up or down.

Also, how long have you had your Icon suspension, since the noise started occurring? I do wounder how lifting a KDSS equipped vehicle, which moves the position of the swaybars, effects the system, and if anything needs to be compensated for.

If it just started after getting an alignment done, it is likely that whoever did it, didn't tighten all of the bolts. If that is the case, I would start there.
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Already gone over the all the bolts. Front and rear. Made sure they were tight. I've had my suspension since last week. My rearend was missed aligned due to the adjustable rear links. Had that fixed with a 4 wheel alignment.

As for the clunk "it only happens below 10mph on pavement. When I start rolling from a dead stop." No off road or articulation. Just stop and go driving...

Sound like when the nose lift from acceleration and weight transfer to the rear. That's when the clunk noise happens. But above 10mph it goes away completely. When taking turns nothing... When hitting dips or bumps nothing... just from stop and go...
 
TheWraith said:
Maybe ???? I might need to have it regreased at the steelership; when I get my next oil change in 4k miles.
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I had a BAD Driveshaft Clunk in my '10 Tundra after I installed a level kit on it. The rear leaf spring wrap with that spacer in there was absurd and it would made the already apparent DS Clunk about 10 times worse.

Just to rule that out, you might have someone get in, put it in drive and give it a little gas with the brakes applied while you watch from the side near the rear wheel to look for axle wrap... That's probably not it but something is binding up on you. If the dealer can blame it on the lift, they surely will.

As far as having the dealer grease the shaft, you can do it yourself. Once they cut the bands on the boot, they just zip tie them back on. You can snip that and pack that thing full of grease.

Good Luck.
 
I hear a faint clunk when backing out of my garage with all the windows down and the music off. Mine is a 2014 Trail.
 
Rushca01 said:
I hear a faint clunk when backing out of my garage with all the windows down and the music off. Mine is a 2014 Trail.
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I used to get the same, it happened only in reverse. It went away after a grease job. Surprisingly, I didn't actually put that much in either 15~ pumps. No where enough to purge it. I have heard of others putting as much as 70~ pumps.
 
what grease do you guys use ???

I also would to clarify ... its not a LOUD Clunk either. Its sound more like a spring or a coil moving in the coilover. More than a driveshaft

but will give greasing it a try... I also noticed that I cant hear it over my radio when I have it set at 16 loudness ...

so its livable cuz I hardly ever drive around with out any music on. And I usually have my radio set at 25 on the loudness.
 
I've been pouring over the site lately, and read some interesting things about the telescoping driveshaft, clunks, why the manual spec'd 2 types of grease at one point, molybdenum grease, too much grease, etc....


Here's a great quote from a thread on the maintenance subforum:

scottm said:
Most automotive greases are lithium-thickened oils, with various additives for friction, corrosion, etc. Molybdenum disulfide (moly) is an inexpensive and extremely effective friction reducer. It reduces friction so much that needle bearings will stop rolling and slide if there's the slightest imperfection or debris in them. Once one needle bearing roller slides a bit, it develops a flat spot, and will continue to slide. This reduces the thickness of that needle, so adjacent rollers take more load. The entire bearing assembly will fail quickly.

Moly grease is not recommended for rolling bearings, like in our U-joints, but highly recommended for sliding surfaces, like in our telescoping driveshafts.

But I still use moly in everything, 'cause I eat danger for breakfast. And I'm too lazy to maintain and haul around two grease guns in my garage. So far, I've had no bearing failures, except on bearings I didn't grease enough long ago.

Go easy on greasing the sliding driveshaft, that's the zerk on the side of the driveshaft, not the ones deep in on the U-joints. A couple pumps is good, let it spin and migrate all the way to the other end of the shaft where it's needed. Pumping the driveshaft full of grease can fill the hollow shaft with grease, so the driveshaft can't slide in as the rear suspension squats.
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thread



So when you grease it--- go easy! Word on the street is that it will accept far too much grease before it ever starts to seep out and show. Adding too much grease could lead to problems such as a cracked transfer case, which others have shared!
 
Not sure if it is the same noise or not (and I apologize if it is not), but, my 06 SR5 had a clunk/thud every time I put it into reverse and within the first 2-3 seconds of vehicle travel. I recall reading somewhere on this site back in the day about that sound being normal. Could it be the same?
 
Fixed my clunking problem.
I have ICON billet lower trailing arms. And I guess when I had the alignment done. They werent tighten to specs. And since its a 3/8" 12pt socket ( which I don't have in my tool chest) I couldn't fix it.

Today I went to autozone and dug thru a pile of weird sockets and found a whole set that would work with a 12pt socket. Grabbed my beloved Craftsman torque wrench and torque it down to 40lbs. And BAM !!! The heavens parted and it stop raining and the sun came out... LOL just joking!!!

Sound completely went away!!! Just plain AWESOMENESS!!! Thank you guys and ICON tech support for all the help...
 
Rear clunking from dead stop

I am seeing the same issue as you and I also have the ICON stage 4 with the billet upper and trailing arms on my 2017 TRD offroad. How did you fix the problem? Thanks
 
Only have the popping noise under my seat when accelerating or braking. Suspension is also squeaky which I assume means it just needs to be lubricated.
 
irrer88 said:
I am seeing the same issue as you and I also have the ICON stage 4 with the billet upper and trailing arms on my 2017 TRD offroad. How did you fix the problem? Thanks
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Well from reading his post he properly torqued all of his aftermarket hardware. :)
 
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