who here has bypassed the AIS system on their v8 toyota? Should I bypass mine??

[truckhigh]

So you're saying you have a 2004 V8 and it has a A.I.R. pump???

What is the build date of your 2004?

I ask because I have a 2004 V8 and it doesn't have a A.I.R. pump!

Not sure about the build date. but its there and it fixed it and i just thought it was a Toyota V8 engine thing. you should just look for the components you probably have it. i pulled a code and found most of the information on the tundra forums.

 

[AuSeeker]

Not sure about the build date. but its there and it fixed it and i just thought it was a Toyota V8 engine thing. you should just look for the components you probably have it. i pulled a code and found most of the information on the tundra forums.

I know I don't have the pump, I have looked.

Look on your door jamb VIN/Tire sticker, upper right corner and it has the build date, it will be the month and year, i.e. 06/03, also what is the 10th digit in your vin number?

I'm wondering if your's was build in the last of the 2004s and may have an 2005 engine in it, you are the first 2004 that I have heard of that has the air pump.

 

[phqduphead]

Who is the best to buy the kit from?
Sorry I suck at the search function. Just got the P1442[emoji90]

 

[trd_v8_sport]

Rutech

dis one :thumb: ill be buying it when i do my headers

 

[JukeRedlin]

Not to hijack as well, but. Is this just... fixable? Would a cut foam filter be a suitable replacement? Can shade tree guys like me get to it?

 

[mannydantyla]

UPDATE:

I installed the AIS bypass kit that Jeff sent me, install was pretty easy and his instructions were great. I then went on a 5,000 mile road trip with zero issues. I've been driving it the past couple of months with zero issues (until today, I guess).

I don't know if this is related to the AIS bypass but today my CEL came on.

There was one code: P0051 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low. The check engine light came on when the vehicle was already warmed up, was running great, and after the CEL came on I continued to drive home (7 minutes) without any problems. Also, the VSC and traction control lights on the dash where blinking.

At this point, I wouldn't even say that the AIS bypass is the main suspect. It's probably just an o2 sensor that needs replaced, right? And should I get the sensor from the dealer or is aftermarket fine?

 

[Bernardchan96]

Whos jeff? does he have a website for the product

 

[Formidable]

Thanks for the link!

Rutech

 

[rokr1292]

did my 04 v8 went into limp mode and wouldn't go past 40mph. If you can solder and wire you can do it for dirt cheap with this write up. I just had to buy a resistor cause i had an old relay, wire and loom. i'll leave it here to make it easier

Thanks for that pdf! I installed the slyfox kit a few months before that post, but I've been thinking ever since how I'd love to neaten it up. MICTUNING on amazon makes OEM-looking fuse boxes I'm thinking I might use to make my accessories look less conspicuous.

 

[mannydantyla]

Whos jeff? does he have a website for the product

I don't think he does, but his email is jeffcole75 (a) gmail (.)(.) com :spy: (I'm keeping bots from logging his email addresss out of respect for privacy)

That's how I contacted him about the bypass kit and it seemed to me like the preferred interface for his little fledging business. This kit was well packaged, costed somewhere between $40 and $50 if I remember correctly, we used PayPal, installed it with no problems at all and that was thanks to the very well written instructions that came with it.

So, in essence, I'm advocating on behalf of Mr. Jeff and his product and I encourage you to seek his council. I emailed him earlier today regarding my p0051 error and he quickly replied with some helpful information and thoughtful words. IIRC I've seen him post on these forums before but I just am not sure about that

 

[mannydantyla]

I threw away the instructions that came with the kit back in December 2018, but I'll try to summarize them from memory, if I can.

Here's the gist of it:

1. you first had to open up the fuze/relay box under the hood and find a certain relay (was easy to find) and then do a little operation regarding that relay, memory is fuzzy, but iirc it was probably piggy backing onto intput or output pin with provided hardware, and then plugging that factory relay back in
2. a new relay from the kit was added to the inside of the fuze/relay box, a double-sided piece of tape was provided to fasten it to a prescribed blank space with all the other relays. Some wires were connected and stuff.
3. a long length of wire then exited out the fuze/relay box under the hood, you had to route it across the firewall to the passanger side and to the sensor (some sort of airflow sensor, probably) on the air intake. Maybe it was two wires though, I can't remember
4. Then you had to splice into one of the wires connected to this air flow sensor on the air intake, such that some sort of componant that came with the kit, probably the new relay, was now in series with this wire

In no way should this be regarded as official instructions. I'm just trying to give a general idea was what is involved. The actual instructions are much, umm, better

The kit provided everything I needed:

• relay with wires already attached, with shrink wrapping and everything
• wires
• wiring connectors. He provided really nice ones that were very easy to use, much nicer than what you find at the auto parts store
• the little piece of hardware for pigging backing onto the relay pin
• zip ties
• anything that you would need but I have forgot about
• oh yeah, the adhesive strip for fastening the relay to the inside of the relay box

 

[Bernardchan96]

Thanks, i remember stumbling upon an earlier thread talking about that secondary air injection thingy, and was a little scared hearing some of the bills people got. How hard was the install?

 

[cspicer]

Did the Rutech forever ago. Haven't installed the actual plates, but the module was stupid easy to install and very high quality. Well worth the $$$

 

[slyfox75]

Hey guys, I didn't even know this thread existed. I'm linked in to the other two AIP related threads so I see when those are updated.

For those on the fence, get a bypass. Mine, his, theirs, whoevers. Doesn't matter per-se. All depends on your budget, they all work the same way.

To save me "do you still make bypasses?" emails. Yes I do.
They are $48 via paypal to jeffcole75 atgmaildotcom
Make sure to include your address.
If it's a Sequoia, LC, LX, Tundra, let me know as those cables are different lengths.
I ship out next morning after payment received.
Instructions included, my phone number is included if you have questions/concerns.
Email me at above email as well if you have questions.
Thanks
-Jeff
-Slyfox75

 

[Bpzimm]

I have had the slyfox bypass installed for about 5 years, and I just installed the new doug thorley long tube headers and y-pipe which delete's the cats. The truck ran great at first but after warming up I was getting a CEL for the downstream o2 sensors. The truck still ran well, but I wanted to get rid of the CEL so I called Jason Burtman and he sent me some 02 spacers. After installing the spacers and new rear 02 sensors, I immediately got codes for the secondary air pump and MAF sensors:

P0037 B1-S2 HEATER ISSUES O2
P0057 B2-S2 HEATER ISSUES O2

P0102 MAS AIR FLOW SENSOR

1440& 1443 0AIR INJECTION SYSTEM

I replaced the MAF sensor and no change. I am wondering now if 1) the relay went bad in the slyox bypass, or 2) the bypass doesn't play well with increased flow of the new setup.

Took it to the local Toyota dealer and they wouldn't touch it bc of all the aftermarket parts (and probably the lack of cats). Anybody have any suggestions on where to go from here? I have reached out to Jeff and am waiting to hear back, so I thought I'd hop in the discussion here.

 

[ac1617]

Hey Everyone,

Looking to bypass my working AIP for futureproofing and I was wondering about the Rutech and Hewitt kits. The Hewitt kit includes a starter relay wire that prevents the pump from activating if you leave the key in the ON position for a long duration before starting. The Rutech kit doesn't have this it seems.
Should I buy the Hewitt kit instead because of the starter relay bypass? Or does the Rutech kit not have this problem?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[slyfox75]

my bypass(slyfox75) and the Hewitt bypass both work the same way and run a wire to the starter relay. This allows you to have the key in ON for as long as you would like and then when you finally turn the key all the way to start, the system will work properly. The RuTech version requires you to turn the key fairly quickly after you put the key in. To most, this is a non issue. To others it is a HUGE issue. All depends on how you use your vehicle.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

my bypass(slyfox75) and the Hewitt bypass both work the same way and run a wire to the starter relay. This allows you to have the key in ON for as long as you would like and then when you finally turn the key all the way to start, the system will work properly. The RuTech version requires you to turn the key fairly quickly after you put the key in. To most, this is a non issue. To others it is a HUGE issue. All depends on how you use your vehicle.

So my question is...what happens if you don't turn the key right away with the Rutech? Will it damage the unit causing starting issues?

 

[volkinator]

So my question is...what happens if you don't turn the key right away with the Rutech? Will it damage the unit causing starting issues?

I think the better question would be. why waste the money? The slyfox kit comes with clear instructions and took me 10 minutes to put in. everything is in the box. it's not as 'plug and play' as the others, but gives you flexibility. And saves you some $$ while supporting a forum contributor who has helped a ton of people with this problem.

 

[slyfox75]

So my question is...what happens if you don't turn the key right away with the Rutech? Will it damage the unit causing starting issues?

To answer your question.....if you dont turn the key right away on the RuTech version, it will not have power to "drive" the circuitry inside the unit, so it would be like having NO BYPASS. So if your system is in functional order, no issue. If you have issues with your system(whole reason you bypass), it will try to come on just as if you never put a bypass in and you could get codes.