who here has bypassed the AIS system on their v8 toyota? Should I bypass mine??
- Thread starter mannydantyla
- Start date
I had this problem in my 2010 Tundra 5.7 with 70k on it about 2 years ago. (before it was totaled a month later).
You will get a CEL after starting it, and it will be in limp mode. I couldn't drive over 30mph, and 35 miles from home. No warning whatsoever.
Lucky for me, Toyota covered it under the 'recall'.
Now I have a 2005 4runner v8, and am not thrilled to hear the problem exists with the 4.7 as well. Wonderful!
Mine has 196k on it, no history of problems with it in the service records.
Which means I am a sitting duck more than likely.
So I guess I better get the bypass ordered from Jeff asap.
Formidable
New member
If anyone wants the Rutech plug and play, (no cutting or splicing), PM me. Ordered it but didn’t realize it cannot be used on 08-09.
Brand new unopened. $150 shipped.
Brand new unopened. $150 shipped.
The system will begin to fail in many different ways....I have yet to see any pattern by area of country, mileage, etc. It appears to be completely random.
-Shop Vac noise on a cold start.....usually no codes when this first begins to happen. But the sound is an indicator your on borrowed time.
-Limp mode(see above) usually this happens a couple times, you can clear and get "ok" again but it will progressively get worse.
-Sometime(as was my case)......no sound, no limp, just codes......then investigated and did the bypass. This too will only get worse and more common the longer you put it off.
-Shop Vac noise on a cold start.....usually no codes when this first begins to happen. But the sound is an indicator your on borrowed time.
-Limp mode(see above) usually this happens a couple times, you can clear and get "ok" again but it will progressively get worse.
-Sometime(as was my case)......no sound, no limp, just codes......then investigated and did the bypass. This too will only get worse and more common the longer you put it off.
MY06T4R
Member
Just a quick question about this bypass
if you are bypassing the system and going to block off the tubes at the manifold, could you just remove the entire system from under the hood and save the weight?? I guess a different way of asking would be if the system is never going to engage then can it just be removed from the engine?? Or would it set the check engine light from the stuff being unplugged?? Thanks
if you are bypassing the system and going to block off the tubes at the manifold, could you just remove the entire system from under the hood and save the weight?? I guess a different way of asking would be if the system is never going to engage then can it just be removed from the engine?? Or would it set the check engine light from the stuff being unplugged?? Thanks
. You will get codes out the ying-yang!
flipflopnfly
New member
Jeff slyfox75 kit works fine on a 2008 4.7l 4runner I still own. Works fine on the 2007 4.7l 4Runner I donated. 4.7l Tundra also.
Just do it.
Just do it.
stopthefury
New member
I have a BRAND NEW Rutech plug and play kit for sale (no block off plates) for $150 shipped!!
steven1955
New member
Hi folks,
A few weeks ago we bought an 07 V8 Limited with 81k miles. I am going to pre-emptively deal with some of the potential problems I've read about on this forum. The AIP issue is one of them.
Before I decide on which fix I had a few questions. Yeah, I am sure the answers can be found, but my eyes are fuzzy after reading so many pages of so many threads.
Functionally it sounds like the Slyfox and Hewitt kits both allow the ignition to be on for an extended time without issues, where with the Rutech you have to start the engine within a few seconds. (In my mind this eliminates the Rutech.)
So here goes:
1. If I choose the Slyfox kit does it come with blocking plates? If it does not, where do I get blocking plates?
2. I saw somewhere here that there was an eBay kit that was plug and play. Now I can't find it. Is it still around and at a price point to be worth considering? (Plug and Play is worth something, but not $100 or so.)
3. Is the eBay kit functionally more like the Slyfox/Hewitt designs, or like the Rutech?
Thanks in advance.
A few weeks ago we bought an 07 V8 Limited with 81k miles. I am going to pre-emptively deal with some of the potential problems I've read about on this forum. The AIP issue is one of them.
Before I decide on which fix I had a few questions. Yeah, I am sure the answers can be found, but my eyes are fuzzy after reading so many pages of so many threads.
Functionally it sounds like the Slyfox and Hewitt kits both allow the ignition to be on for an extended time without issues, where with the Rutech you have to start the engine within a few seconds. (In my mind this eliminates the Rutech.)
So here goes:
1. If I choose the Slyfox kit does it come with blocking plates? If it does not, where do I get blocking plates?
2. I saw somewhere here that there was an eBay kit that was plug and play. Now I can't find it. Is it still around and at a price point to be worth considering? (Plug and Play is worth something, but not $100 or so.)
3. Is the eBay kit functionally more like the Slyfox/Hewitt designs, or like the Rutech?
Thanks in advance.
Steven,
My slyfox75 bypass has optional plates for $40 for the pair. I will offer up the fact that if you don’t have issues(you are doing preemptively) there is no need to do the plates. This will save you money and some time under the truck.
Bypasses are $48 via PayPal to jeffcole75 at gmail dot com
If you want the plates add $40.
Make sure to include your address.
I ship out next morning after payment received.
My slyfox75 bypass has optional plates for $40 for the pair. I will offer up the fact that if you don’t have issues(you are doing preemptively) there is no need to do the plates. This will save you money and some time under the truck.
Bypasses are $48 via PayPal to jeffcole75 at gmail dot com
If you want the plates add $40.
Make sure to include your address.
I ship out next morning after payment received.
steven1955
New member
This might be a dumb question but why would the block off plates not be necessary if doing the bypass preemptively? Aren't all of the valves and plumbing subject to the same conditions bypassed or not, although reduced with the bypass?
The valves(think check valve) on a new/normal truck are closed 99.9999% of the time. Only open for those 10-15 seconds the pump runs on a COLD startup......so they open very rarely.
If they are ok when bypassed they should never open/function again so they would stay closed 100% of the time. I’ve been running 5 years or so w no plates.
If you NEED plates, the ECU will let you know via limp mode(even if bypassed). That would mean one or both of your valves are not closing all the way due to broken pump blades or foam or whatever.
If they are ok when bypassed they should never open/function again so they would stay closed 100% of the time. I’ve been running 5 years or so w no plates.
If you NEED plates, the ECU will let you know via limp mode(even if bypassed). That would mean one or both of your valves are not closing all the way due to broken pump blades or foam or whatever.
Reviving this, hopefully with questions that aren't redundant:
05 V8 is showing codes P1442 and P1445 - CEL, VSC Trac Light, and a few others are showing but it's not in Limp Mode (yet).
Local shop quoted me $2,800 (three-year warranty) and Toyota countered with a bit less...
Am I too late to do the bypass? If not, will I still pass state inspections (NC) with a bypass?
05 V8 is showing codes P1442 and P1445 - CEL, VSC Trac Light, and a few others are showing but it's not in Limp Mode (yet).
Local shop quoted me $2,800 (three-year warranty) and Toyota countered with a bit less...
Am I too late to do the bypass? If not, will I still pass state inspections (NC) with a bypass?
I'm in NC as well, and pretty much have found myself in a similar situation over the last couple of days. I'm only showing a P1445 now "stuck closed", and haven't hit the limp mode threshold yet. I don't think I've even encountered the vacuum suck sound at startup that I've seen and heard on the youtubes. '05 V8, just a shade over 164K.
I'm just starting to research these bypass kits/ I can't imagine they are legal in NC, and I also can't imagine they'll be detected if your dash lights aren't lit up like a Christmas tree when you take it in for the annual. I'm somewhat handy, but seeing things like running wires across the firewall and splicing into stuff is sending me into freakout mode.
I'm just starting to research these bypass kits/ I can't imagine they are legal in NC, and I also can't imagine they'll be detected if your dash lights aren't lit up like a Christmas tree when you take it in for the annual. I'm somewhat handy, but seeing things like running wires across the firewall and splicing into stuff is sending me into freakout mode.
volkinator
New member
There's another thread on this, but it's super easy. Not sure what all they do in NC, but I know there are others in states with annuals that are running this just fine. Pics in the install pages are very helpful and it comes with everything needed. Taping it along the wiring harness makes it blend right in. Take your time and triple check before cutting anything and you'll be just fine
Similar threads
