wholy grease batman, i need a diff drop!(after ome and lc coil lift)

theizzardking

New member
i checked under my truck today just to see how thing were going and saw this staring me in the face.....

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i'm getting the brother in law to ship me the drop bracket since i left it at his house and he said i just need some new bands at the top of the cv, do you think i need to repack the grease in there as well?

this is worrying to me so i'm parking my truck until i can get the drop on and see how this goes...
 
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It's not dangerous or risky to the CVs in the short-term. After my 1st lift (spacers), they flung grease so I put some hose clamps over the stock clamps. That worked for a little while and started leaking again and then I just let all the grease fling out until there wasn't anymore. A couple months later the boots tore so I wrapped them in duct tape and drove a few more months. Then the inner boots shredded off almost completely and I drove it with virtually no inner boots through a snowy winter in 4x4 most of the time. Those CVs can really take some abuse!

I wouldn't bother re-packing them. The diff drop is a good idea. Chances are you'll just need to get new CVs in the next 6 months - a year or so because the stockies just don't like being at a new angle after so many years in one position. I got a diff drop right before I got new CVs and they've been fine for 1.5+ years.
 
LOL I have been running with torn boots and almost no grease for a couple months now. I have had 3 seperate mechanics tell me not to worry and people will drive a year or two with no grease and torn boots. These are guys that know I do my own work and arent trying to make the buck of me bringing in a truck with destroyed CV's.
 
yeah that's basiclly what he told me too, is that it doesn't matter at that it's just going to spit grease until the pressure from the new angle of the cv's equalizes. basically that it will stop pushing that grease out at one point and that some grease should remain in there....


i just saw that and was like holy rap, man....it just doesn't seem right and worst case scenario a blow a cv, that doesn't mean i'm going to be stranded anywhere right ? or am i going to have to disconnect a drive shaft somewhere like you would on a jeep to limp home?


so you guys think it's ok to keep driving it like this then? like i said it freaked me right the heck out and just doesn't seem right to me, i mean if this was a jeep or vw and it was spitting grease and fluid everywhere that would be one thing but this is a toyota and scares me, lol
 
most guys on here would also say that u should get rid of the 3/4" spacer bc they say that it will mess with the CVs still. Im not sure though bc i dont have to worry bout stuff like that... :)
 
Yeah, it's mainly due to that spacer on top of the 882s. 882s are 3" lift coils by themselves. You're pushing the limits of the IFS.
 
most guys on here would also say that u should get rid of the 3/4" spacer bc they say that it will mess with the CVs still. Im not sure though bc i dont have to worry bout stuff like that... :)

yeah i asked about that apparently it's only a 1/2 inch top plate spacer and should still be ok, i'm taking your guys words for it though and am just going to keep on trucking....lol
 
Yeah, it's mainly due to that spacer on top of the 882s. 882s are 3" lift coils by themselves. You're pushing the limits of the IFS.

so should i lose the spacer and just drop the cash and get proper ome coils for the rear? i was really just trying to save a few bucks and get about 2 inches over my magic 99 coils so i could fit a 33 of some sort either a 255 or a 285...
 
so should i lose the spacer and just drop the cash and get proper ome coils for the rear? i was really just trying to save a few bucks and get about 2 inches over my magic 99 coils so i could fit a 33 of some sort either a 255 or a 285...

I'm confused, your sig says 882s with packer. I thought that's the 3/4" spacer that xskydivingdudex was referring to. What is your front and rear set-up to clarify? Whatever you're running in the rear won't make a difference on your CVs.
 
I'm confused, your sig says 882s with packer. I thought that's the 3/4" spacer that xskydivingdudex was referring to. What is your front and rear set-up to clarify? Whatever you're running in the rear won't make a difference on your CVs.

the front is 882's with a 1/2 inch top plate spacer and ome shocks.

in the rear is just straight up lc 8 wraps

he's confused becuase i was earlier, i thought it was a 3/4 but it's really only a 1/2 even though i don;t know how much of a difference that really makes...
 
The top spacers are probably causing too much droop in the front and making the angle a bit too steep on your CVs, even with a .5". Those 882s are pretty tall on their own. What sucks is you have to realign it everytime you mess with the height.

Nothing is going to sit level with LC coils except a SAS or a lame CV drop bracket style lift. I would probably do the diff drop 1st, then see if they still leak. If no leaks you're probably ok with the spacer, but if they do leak you'll probably have to loose it. As for the rear, I would probably just keep the LCs if I was you (since you already have them), but you will have to live with a rake regardless.
 
dammit batman! lol, you know what coil i can run in the rear to sit level with the 882's and still fit a 33 tire in my wheel well? i don't wheel as much as you guys do so losing a little bit of flex isn't going to kill me and forget about the cv style lifts your talking about those are fake imo, if you know what i'm saying
 
dammit batman! lol, you know what coil i can run in the rear to sit level with the 882's and still fit a 33 tire in my wheel well? i don't wheel as much as you guys do so losing a little bit of flex isn't going to kill me and forget about the cv style lifts your talking about those are fake imo, if you know what i'm saying

Yeah the drop CV lifts are So Gay The OME 890s will sit level with 882s (without a top spacer) if you leave your rear stock bump stop cones in (the ones that go on top and inside the coils). So will the 891s, but they are better for heavy loads or pulling a trailer. The 890s will still be a little stiffer than your LCs, so you will be giving up a little smoothness to sit level.
 
Mines throwing more grease than that :)

I don't have the spacers, but I do have the diff drop kit.

I still need to replace the clamps & hope they hold....
 
Yeah the drop CV lifts are So Gay The OME 890s will sit level with 882s (without a top spacer) if you leave your rear stock bump stop cones in (the ones that go on top and inside the coils). So will the 891s, but they are better for heavy loads or pulling a trailer. The 890s will still be a little stiffer than your LCs, so you will be giving up a little smoothness to sit level.


A little stiffer? I was hoping swap my rear OME coils out for some 7 wrap LC's to get some comfort back!
 
Izzard: well if u want them to sit level then like Brian said get some 890s or 891s but they will ride rough compared to ur 8 wraps... They are better with weight tho so if u carry heavy loads in the rear u should change them out or live with the rake.

djbrand: i dunno if u mis-read that but brian is saying that the LCs are a bit softer then the OMEs...
 
I agree with removing the TO spacers and adding a diff drop. Like others have said, the 882's provide about 3"s of lift and that is the max you want to go.

As far as leveling goes, the 890's would work. However I personally feel like they ride rough and I have a tool box with about 75lbs of gear in the back. I know its not much, but I thought it would help some. I cringe when I go over bumps as it jars my teeth. My wife laughs as I spent $700 to unimprove the ride quality. Oh well, its a trade off for having a lifted vehicle and the look/offroad performance outweight the rough ride.

Its too bad someone cant make a progressive coil similar to the LC's that isnt so damn tall. I cant stand the raked look so for me the 890's were the only option.

Maybe the 906's with a spacer would have worked?
 
Izzard: well if u want them to sit level then like Brian said get some 890s or 891s but they will ride rough compared to ur 8 wraps... They are better with weight tho so if u carry heavy loads in the rear u should change them out or live with the rake.

djbrand: i dunno if u mis-read that but brian is saying that the LCs are a bit softer then the OMEs...

I read correctly, just was hoping the LC's would be a lot softer!
 
I read correctly, just was hoping the LC's would be a lot softer!

well to be honest i don't know how in tune my butt is with the 4runners but after a few 5K mile trips in the 4runner with stock springs in the rear and sensatrac shocks on at the time i can't really tell much of a difference between them and the new stuff I've put in the rear since the lift other then the height obviously, i would suggest that the lc coils ride pretty sweet and pretty close to stock in the way the ride feels, but that's just my butt gauge, if you know what i'm saying, this is my first runner and since coming from jeeps and old bronco's i may not be the best judge of things as those trucks tend to ride alot differently then the 4runners. imo.

maybe some others can chime in and we can come to a consensus on this.
 
Get rid of the .5" spacer in the front and replace your rear springs with OME 890's or 891's. I would also do a 1.5" diff drop. You have webs touching on your boots which means they have way too much angle. Probably be ok on the highway, but if you take it wheeling, you will put more stress on them flexing and they will be more prone to failure. That is not what you want to happen while out on the trails - ask me how I know.
 

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