Why are my CVs making more noise after diff drop?

[bhands]

So I installed my lift this wekend (ome 881/Tundra 5100s and LC 8 wraps/Tokico Treks). I drove it around for half a day without the diff drop and my CVs were making noise only at full turn. Last night I put on the diff drop from toytec and now it seems like the CVs are making noise when turning just a little bit. I may be wrong on this diagnosis but I am not sure what else it can be? Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

 

[expatoz]

Can you post pictures of your CV joints - curious to see the angles. Can you describe the sound in more detail? Clicking sound? Where in Sac are you?

 

[bhands]

Can you post pictures of your CV joints - curious to see the angles. Can you describe the sound in more detail? Clicking sound? Where in Sac are you?

Ill try and post some pics later today but yes it is a clicking sound. I am off Greenback and Hwy 80.

 

[bhands]

Hopefully this helps.

 

[theizzardking]

are you sure the noise is coming from your cv's and not the steering rack?

i don't know why the cv's would make noise "at full turn" or how fast you'd have to be going to even test such a thing...what kind of noise is it?


those angles don't look too bad, not enough for any real issues and typically they will start throwing tons of grease before they start making noise, so either they are/were internally compromised before the lift and when you lifted it that grit/sand/crap ect fell further into the joint and then when you dropped the diff trapped it further back in there and that's why the noise is louder now......(it could also be the ADD or the spindle bushings/bearings)

or it's not the cv's at all....typically the joints in a cv don't make different noises when turning, they are more speed sensitive, meaning you'll get different sounds at speed as opposed to turning....typically...you can have a cv joint that is sliding in and out to far with some grit in it and have a bit of a sound....
anyways if your 100% certain it's coming from the cv
you got 3 choices,
repair:
pull the boot, flush ,grease, re-boot

rebuild:
best option as toyota brand is the best and this is cheaper then new

replace:toyota's followed by napa or master pro lifetime warranty around $100 a side + core deposit

i'd start looking other places then the cv's though if it's doing something on turns as if you look how they work there's very little to make noise when going side to side or in this case in and out as the CV slides....

 

[bhands]

are you sure the noise is coming from your cv's and not the steering rack?

i don't know why the cv's would make noise "at full turn" or how fast you'd have to be going to even test such a thing...what kind of noise is it?


those angles don't look too bad, not enough for any real issues and typically they will start throwing tons of grease before they start making noise, so either they are/were internally compromised before the lift and when you lifted it that grit/sand/crap ect fell further into the joint and then when you dropped the diff trapped it further back in there and that's why the noise is louder now......(it could also be the ADD or the spindle bushings/bearings)

or it's not the cv's at all....typically the joints in a cv don't make different noises when turning, they are more speed sensitive, meaning you'll get different sounds at speed as opposed to turning....typically...you can have a cv joint that is sliding in and out to far with some grit in it and have a bit of a sound....
anyways if your 100% certain it's coming from the cv
you got 3 choices,
repair:
pull the boot, flush ,grease, re-boot

rebuild:
best option as toyota brand is the best and this is cheaper then new

replace:toyota's followed by napa or master pro lifetime warranty around $100 a side + core deposit

i'd start looking other places then the cv's though if it's doing something on turns as if you look how they work there's very little to make noise when going side to side or in this case in and out as the CV slides....

So I am not 100% that it is the CVs I was just told that it could be and I am not sure what else to look at? It sounds kind of like a metal pop or thud. Where else would I check for problems or how can I diagnose further?

 

[Doc2012]

Check your LBJs. the click at turn is a sure sign of them failing. The reason im saying this is because you just installed a lift. Thats going to add stress to the ball joints, upper and lower. I know when i did my front lift, i changed everything, lower and upper, even though i had just changed the uppers a couple months before. I had mine doing the same thing, on my old 5 lug, then the damn passenger wheel fell off. It was holding on by the knuckle. Of course, I was a boot to cars then. Now, I hear a click, vibe, or anything, I check it. There really isn't a way, that I know of, to check the LBJs, but their not too expensive at the auto parts store, IIRC. Depending how many miles since they've been changed, I'd say change them anyway. Better safe than sorry.....
.02

 

[nevada]

those angles, and axles look fine.

id look elsewhere for the noise.
you can check the ball joints.. jack the truck up, and grab the tire, at 12:00, and 6:00. try to rock it in/out.

this is easier with a 2nd person, so they can watch and see what part is moving.


and, have you had it aligned yet? you may just be hearing the tires scrubbing, since the camber, aswell as toe will be off.
also, whoever aligns it can check to be sure the balljoints, and rest of the suspension is tight.
it should not be aligned if its got any worn parts.

 

[bhands]

Thanks for the help guys. I have brand new OEM LBJs and OTREs I just didn't change them yet but I will for sure do it and give an update. I had a lot of problems with rusty parts so what do you think is the best way to take off the OTRE?

 

[theizzardking]

Thanks for the help guys. I have brand new OEM LBJs and OTREs I just didn't change them yet but I will for sure do it and give an update. I had a lot of problems with rusty parts so what do you think is the best way to take off the OTRE?

bfh and a pickle fork

 

[Dous]

bfh and a pickle fork

That works, so does a tie rod puller with a little grinding done to it

 

[cj80cruiser]

No need to separate the OTRE from the LBJ since you're replacing both....just take them out as one unit if they wont easily come apart.

Spray threads and nuts liberally with PB blaster or Kroil a few days prior to removal if they are really rusty.

 

[bhands]

No need to separate the OTRE from the LBJ since you're replacing both....just take them out as one unit if they wont easily come apart.

Spray threads and nuts liberally with PB blaster or Kroil a few days prior to removal if they are really rusty.

I am planning on taking out as one piece just wondering the best way to get the threaded part of the OTRE out?

 

[PitbullRescuer]

No need to separate the OTRE from the LBJ since you're replacing both....just take them out as one unit if they wont easily come apart.

Spray threads and nuts liberally with PB blaster or Kroil a few days prior to removal if they are really rusty.

Beat me too it. This is exactly correct though. Unbolt the LBJ (4 bolts) and then just spin the the OTRE out with the LBJ attached. Much easier.

 

[cj80cruiser]

I am planning on taking out as one piece just wondering the best way to get the threaded part of the OTRE out?

Kroil isn't found everywhere and on the expensive side so I use PB blaster for most things. If it's really tough though I switch to the Kroil. You can buy on amazon but I picked mine up at a ac/heating repair shop.

 

[bhands]

Thank you everyone for your help. I installed the new LBJs and OTRE and it has helped. Now I just need to get an alignment.