Winch wire to rear hitch?

[Albionwood]

I've installed a front hitch receiver and am mounting a winch onto a hitch plate, so it can go on either the front or back. Now I'm wondering about running the big wires back to the rear hitch. I'm lazy, so probably will just put quick-connects on each end of a 20' cable and use it like an extension cord... But, in case I want to do it up right, does anyone have pointers? Is there a relatively slick way to route 2-gauge wire front to back under the rig?

 

[JSparky]

I've run 4awg front to back on two 5th gens. There's room on both the driver and passenger side. I'd imagine 2awg would fit but I would check first, that cable gets thick fast.

Running the cable through the firewall isn't an issue. I like to use dynamat or the like to seal any holes made through the firewall, even if it's through one of the factory rubber grommets.

The tight spots will be under the door trim of the front and second rows. I'm not sure if you've looked at this yet, but the trim is held in with pressure clips, simply lift up gently and it will pop out. There are factory wiring looms running down both sides but there's extra space for accessory circuits. As I said, I know 4awg fits, not sure about 2awg but I'm thinking it will.

You may have to trim some plastic to get from the floor of the second row to the rear cargo area, depending on how you route the cable.

There are a number of ways to access the undercarriage once you get the cable to the back of the truck. I chose to drill through where the cargo rings are at the very rear of the vehicle. This was due to the fact that I mounted a rear fuse/relay box back there. For me it made the most sense, my wiring is enclosed in a durable pelican box so gear can be stored on top, as opposed to having the wiring running up the side of the vehicle. I power several things out the back though. You could also pop the plastic trim on the floor of the very rear of the truck and route the cable under the floor of the cargo area of the vehicle. I'm not sure if there are any factory holes to run the cable to the underside of the vehicle there though, you'd have to check.

Either way, you have direct access to the hitch under the factory cargo rings, so it's an option.

Overall it'd be a lot of effort and $$ to get a cable that large back there. Practically speaking I'd probably ask myself how often I'd be using a rear mounted winch, and whether or not there are other solutions. Hope that helps.

Edit: Just saw you asked about under the vehicle, not inside. Due to risk of insulation damage to the cable I'd probably stick with your initial plan for an exterior extension cable. I suppose you could always go along the frame using zip-ties or cable-clamps, seems prone to issues after awhile though.

 

[gm350reratliff]

I’ve ran heavy gauge cable for winch or other heavy use on multiple vehicles. It’s not that hard. I would recommend measuring the length of the vehicle and add 5-10 feet to that. Get some HD split loom or some type of protective covering for the entire length of the cable. You will only be running the positive wire from the battery to the rear bumper. You will need to run an extra ground cable, same heavy gauge, from the battery to the frame and from the rear plug to the frame. Make sure to completely remove the paint from the frame in the areas that you are grounding to. I would recommend stainless steel bolts and nuts when grounding to the frame. You can apply some paint after grounding to the frame for rust protection. The frame is fully boxed so you can run the cable inside the frame front to rear and not have to worry about cable ties, exhaust heat, or getting caught on something. Find a hole in the frame near the front to pass the cable through and same thing for the rear of the vehicle. I would recommend having a way to disconnect power such as one of these: https://www.bluesea.com/products/9003e/e-Series_On_Off_Battery_Switch and only turn it on when needed. I have mine mounted to the top of the fusebox lid. Of course there are more elaborate remote controlled options as well but I like to keep some things simple.

I’ve used these kits a lot and they seem good: Superwinch 2008 Kit - Trailer Wiring kit, with 25' leads for rear mount winches up through 16,500 lb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009PBAMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Z2IZAbJDYKGT9

 

[e60ral]

run the negative back to the battery, not the frame (make sure you measure total loop length when sizing conductors)

 

[phillyd2]

Used this on my pickup

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029XEFM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Btw, the second picture in the Amazon add is actually MY F250

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1427196-this-be-me-2016-f250-5.html

 

[e60ral]

Used this on my pickup

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029XEFM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Btw, the second picture in the Amazon add is actually MY F250

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1427196-this-be-me-2016-f250-5.html

did you post the wrong link, that looks like it's only 7.5'

 

[phillyd2]

did you post the wrong link, that looks like it's only 7.5'

Opps. Sorry.

https://www.amazon.com/32966-Quick-...0029XFFQ?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&th=1

 

[Albionwood]

Thanks everybody - very helpful. I have the wires and quick-connectors to make something like that WARN cabling. My plan is to put connectors on both ends and only connect to the battery when I want to use the winch; so no real need for another solenoid. (I'll have quick-connects on a short cable to the battery, and another on the winch cable, so I can connect the winch to either cable.)

I like the idea of snaking the wires through the boxed frame, sounds easier than running it inside and then back out. Will take a look under the rig when I get some dry weather.