Wiring harness madness(window regulator).....

[77'911]

It all started with my Pops riding in the back seat(which is never used) and breaking the rear window regulator/motor. Found out, it also blew a breaker in the master switch, could not get power going out of the switch for the up circuit. Well, after a replacement switch, found a break in the wiring harness at the driver's door. Uuuuuuuuuugh.

I found another wire in the harness about to let go as well. I'll clean them up and repair them tomorrow. Hope this helps others out there, when it comes to wiring issues. Check the bend points in the harness when you have issues. What a fun job pulling the driver's door harness.
regards

 

[combatmedic]

Just went through this myself, rear driverside door the power lock and window function both stopped working at the same time. Took door panel completely apart, put back together and it worked again...

 

[GergDees]

Same Here - Drivers Door Harness Break

I am currently working on the same problem. The driver's door power lock in my '99 4Runner Limited had been acting a bit odd for as long as I've owned it. The power lock would work but it was slower (weaker maybe) than the other doors. So when it stopped working entirely, I figured it was the actuator. I ordered a new actuator off Amazon for about $120 with Prime next day shipping and put it in this evening. I hooked everything up and tried it out. Still nothing. So I started probing the wires, checked the wiring diagrams for the power lock system, and found the blue/white wire to the actuator has no ground or voltage when rocking the power lock switch back and forth. I checked the door harness connector behind the kick panel and I had ground and voltage there. After a bit more looking and prodding, I found the blue/white wire is broken exactly right in the middle of that long rubber grommet between the door and the body.

You're right, removing that door harness is a blast! For anyone else out there who all of a sudden has things stop working which are either in the driver's door or are controlled by the drivers door switches, check the wiring diagrams in a service manual to get the wire color codes for the component that is not working, and check continuity between the connector in the driver's door and the connector in the kick panel. It should only take 15-20 minutes to do, and you might just save yourself $120.00. (If you don't have a wiring diagram, do a google search for "4Runner factory service manual". They're out there, easy to find, and free to download)

I hate to resurrect a few month old thread, but because there is more than one of us with this exact same problem, chances are fairly good that others will run into the same issue. Hope this helps someone from pulling their hair out or from getting grey hair prematurely.