I purchased a set of lightforce 170s with harness and tried to install them on my 2000 4runner, because my new ARB looked naked without and I lost my fog lights with the bumper. I was not successful. I wired everything exactly as the lightforce instructions suggested, uptil the brown wire they want you to tap into the high beams. I tried tapping into the parking lights with the ezy tap that came with the harness. First I tried the green wire on the back of the parking light and I was able to turn on the lightforce lights but engine wouldn't start and the parking lights were on without the keys in the ignition. So not wanting to run the battery dead, I tried tapping the other wire on the back of the parking lights, white and black I think and nothing happened. I was able to run the car at this point and charged the battery incase it was drained. Finally I tried tappinig the left headlight low beam and splicing the brown harness wire to it, but alas the off road lights didn't turn on and neither did my yota. I tried disconnecting all of the harness wiring, but I still can't get my 4runner to start...it's acting like there is a short and making a clicking sound when I turn the key to acc or on before start and the fuse box is clicking although I don't see any blown fuses and now the power locks dont work and the alarm is trying to go off...i pulled the wires off the battery terminal and went for a beer. Any ideas what is causing the meltdown, after I tried splicing the parking lights and the headlight I wrapped them with electrical tape....could they still short. And also when I turn on the lights is when the clicking in the fuse box starts.
Wiring offroad lights
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I do have DRLs I have a 2000 SR5
Everything I read said not to use the existing fog light wiring and with the lightforce wiring harness tap into the headlights, I didn't want them to run with the high beams as I am using them for fog lights. The lightforce harness came with a switch which I ran with some trouble through the firewall and mounted in one of the extra spots left of the steering wheel.
Thanks for the replys. I am worried that I have fried some electrics but I don't see a blown fuses, i didn't check the started fuse though might after it stops raining or I might just have to bring it to someone smarter (electronically) than me.
I do have DRLs I have a 2000 SR5
Everything I read said not to use the existing fog light wiring and with the lightforce wiring harness tap into the headlights, I didn't want them to run with the high beams as I am using them for fog lights. The lightforce harness came with a switch which I ran with some trouble through the firewall and mounted in one of the extra spots left of the steering wheel.
Thanks for the replys. I am worried that I have fried some electrics but I don't see a blown fuses, i didn't check the started fuse though might after it stops raining or I might just have to bring it to someone smarter (electronically) than me.
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TheDurk
Elite Member
OK. First, you can't always see blown fuses...always use a test lamp or meter or swap in a known good one of the same size. The fuse has a little hole to put the lamp or meter probe in. Test the plug with the fuse out so you know which end is the hot and which is the load.
Second, you did something if you are having trouble starting after removing all the new harness components. If its the alarm, I really can't help you over the internet as I don't have one myself. First thing to do is reconnect the battery, make sure you have a full charge, and reset the alarm with the new stuff totally off the car. Your tape should be enough to keep the tap 'wounds' from shorting. Get it back to normal before you worry about the fogs.
Tapping into the parking lights should have worked. That's how mine are set up. My Hellas actually came with a harness and relay that was mislabeled; it would never have worked the way they had it. It actually was draining the battery through the relay coil and running all the light power through the dash switch...not good. The worst was the lights actually worked, but bad things were going on. I had to start over from scratch after the battery died.
Once you get the car fixed, just wire the thing without looking at the instructions. Tap goes to parking light hot and connects to dash switch. Dash switch on the other end to relay coil and then other end of relay coil to ground. Main power from light fuse to relay contact. Relay contact on other end to lights. Then other end of lights to ground at the battery. Voilá, habemus lux! (mixing French and Latin.) I checked the Lightforce website, this is how they want it set up--except for the tap on the parking light. But there is no substitute for YOU knowing which wire does what if you really want it work after the instructions let you down. Verify the relay connects the way they say it does--there is where Hella effed me up.
BTW, if you don't have a test light or meter, get one!
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N
noneckrex
Guest
i ran straight from the battery to a fuse to a switch. wire back out from the switch to the wires for the lights. also a ground wire from the switch to the frame of my rig. took all of 45 minutes and it works great.
solved
Thanks so much guys, its been solved.
There were two problems.
The 4runner not starting, the clicking of the fuse box, and loss of auto locks etc was due to poor battery terminal connections. In my defense the first project i did when i started the install was to clean the battery which was corroded up bad and than I sprayed some junk on it that was supposed to prevent battery corrosion. I think i either didn't clean them up well enough, but more likely the battery junk made the connection worse.
2nd problem was the ezy tap wire connector that came with the lightforce harness doesn't make a great connection. So when i first wired the lights i wasn't getting a connection to the parking lights as i should have. Redid the connection today and taped it up solid they run like champs ill post some pix when I get a chance.
Thanks so much guys, its been solved.
There were two problems.
The 4runner not starting, the clicking of the fuse box, and loss of auto locks etc was due to poor battery terminal connections. In my defense the first project i did when i started the install was to clean the battery which was corroded up bad and than I sprayed some junk on it that was supposed to prevent battery corrosion. I think i either didn't clean them up well enough, but more likely the battery junk made the connection worse.
2nd problem was the ezy tap wire connector that came with the lightforce harness doesn't make a great connection. So when i first wired the lights i wasn't getting a connection to the parking lights as i should have. Redid the connection today and taped it up solid they run like champs ill post some pix when I get a chance.
the great him
Elite Member
ok i feel i need to point something out here, if you are wanting to use the 170s for fog lights you are high?, that is way too much light for fog, you will blind your self in fog, do you even have the amber cover or the defuser cover? the 170s are a driving light not fog
that was from another thread on a bumper install, but someone asked about lights on that...
quoted from; http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/90646-finally-got-my-new-bumper-2.html
secondly the reason lightforce tells you to tap into the highbeams is that allows the lights to only come on when the high beams are on... meaning that you are in a wide open area with no other traffic and or off road... they do that cause DOT has regs on lights and weather or not they can be used on the road, im pretty sure they are not DOT approved and not ment to be used on the road.
and third, its my preference and so it may not be for everyone, but i generally wire my lights the way i want them, not how the manufacture wants you too, cause im the one useing the lights, not them. i want them to come on when i want them to ect. so i never fallow the wiring instructions. all you need for lights is power and ground, its that simple power and ground... now with that being said i do use relays, and fuses, but i use my own switches and i run my own power supply, i dont use the parking lights or high beams or any of that other crap to trigger the usage or ability to use my lights, i want them to come on when i want them to come on its as simple as that. use a 20 amp relay, 15 am fuse, a switch thats rated for 20 amps, 14awg wire for both hot(power) and load(power to the lights, from the switch) and ground. i like to use read for power, white for load and black for ground, that way for me its easy to identify what wire is what, and i also run my wires in a loom and use my own stand alone fuse panel/block for all my lights, that way if something does fry i dont lose anything other than my stuff, that being said in the 15 years i have been messing with wireing and cars ect i have only burned one set of wires/lights and that was cause i was lazy and didnt run a relay or fuse...
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BigRogers
New member
He guys need a hand with tying into the parking lamp power.....
I am working on installing the Vision X lights that came with my bumper. I have installed most everything with relative ease based on this diagram that came with the lights and wiring harness:
Where I am having trouble understanding is how do i tie power into the switch from the parking lamps. I found this wiring diagram (but I have zero idea what I am truly looking at):
So that makes me believe I need to grab the green/yellow striped wire in this location for the positive connection......right? PLEASE HELP!
I am working on installing the Vision X lights that came with my bumper. I have installed most everything with relative ease based on this diagram that came with the lights and wiring harness:
Where I am having trouble understanding is how do i tie power into the switch from the parking lamps. I found this wiring diagram (but I have zero idea what I am truly looking at):
So that makes me believe I need to grab the green/yellow striped wire in this location for the positive connection......right? PLEASE HELP!
Attachments
98OzarksRunner
New member
Here's what I did.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/115227-mod-use-fog-light-switch-driving-lights.html
I use the fog light switch to control the aux lights. The only issue is they don't dim with the headlights, but for offroad that should matter. I didn't want to clutter the cab with another switch and the fogs got dumped with the ARB bumper. Works great and is clean.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/115227-mod-use-fog-light-switch-driving-lights.html
I use the fog light switch to control the aux lights. The only issue is they don't dim with the headlights, but for offroad that should matter. I didn't want to clutter the cab with another switch and the fogs got dumped with the ARB bumper. Works great and is clean.
theizzardking
New member
i say you check it with a multi meter and then just run
pin 86 to the batt
pin 85 to a ground
and then pins 30 & 87a to a rocker switch with and extra ground and cut out the whole parking lights thing all together, here's a write up of my fog light install
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/55065-3rd-hella-install-many-days-lol.html
and info on stock toyota switch dropped in.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/54893-factory-fog-switch-hella-500s.html
the real key here like the durk was saying is to know what you got then you can move on, and to be honest it look as if you have to conflicting wiring diagrams as i'm not sure the diagram and the pic you posted match up, plus your looking for the parking lights and everything there is coming off of the turns or hazards, i admit i haven;t much time into this response so your diagrams could be right, but for face value things don't seem to be lining up right...really though get the meter out and test this stuff and then the limits are endless on how you could do this. personally i prefer a rocker switch anyways over the twisty knob on the steering wheel. remember these are all simple devices they are either on or off and those states create conditions; there's no processor here or anything to screw with you so just take things for face value, go slow and know what you got.
pin 86 to the batt
pin 85 to a ground
and then pins 30 & 87a to a rocker switch with and extra ground and cut out the whole parking lights thing all together, here's a write up of my fog light install
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/55065-3rd-hella-install-many-days-lol.html
and info on stock toyota switch dropped in.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/54893-factory-fog-switch-hella-500s.html
the real key here like the durk was saying is to know what you got then you can move on, and to be honest it look as if you have to conflicting wiring diagrams as i'm not sure the diagram and the pic you posted match up, plus your looking for the parking lights and everything there is coming off of the turns or hazards, i admit i haven;t much time into this response so your diagrams could be right, but for face value things don't seem to be lining up right...really though get the meter out and test this stuff and then the limits are endless on how you could do this. personally i prefer a rocker switch anyways over the twisty knob on the steering wheel. remember these are all simple devices they are either on or off and those states create conditions; there's no processor here or anything to screw with you so just take things for face value, go slow and know what you got.
BigRogers
New member
Definitely see what you are saying now that I have looked at it a little closer. I already have the relay wired up per the directions that came with the wiring harness instructions. The fuze lead is wired to the battery, and grounds are all hooked up. the last little bit is tying power into the switch from the parking lights. Forget all the other diagrams.....where can I make this connection?
Also do not have any existing accessory lighting switch to model the install after. The harness came with a push button switch that I had planned on using until i can get a daystar/rocker switch for the lights.
theizzardking
New member
well that *SOUNDS* simple enough tie one of the leads into the switch for power and then on the other side of the switch run that to ground and it should work.......note: should work....what does the back of the switch you have look like how many prongs?
BigRogers
New member
It is a wired switch (Generic one size fits all) with a peel and stick back. looks just like the drawing from the harness.......
theizzardking
New member
Looks to be a 3 prong switch , im willing to bet you can tap the red wire into any power lead and just run a ground somewhere and it'll work , just so you know this is kind of a hack job doing it this way without testing things and really knowing whats going on, but it should work , there maybe issues , there may not be .....
So in short tap the red switch lead to power , black to a good ground and then plug in the relay wire to the switch and you should have light.
BigRogers
New member
First off thanks for the much appreciated help. Ill let you know my solution. :cheers:
Secondly can you tell me why the heck i need power to the switch when everything is tied into the battery?? Its got to do with the relay i am sure....
Lastly, when i do get a rocker style switch how much of a PITA will it be to install? What all is involved?
BigRogers
New member
Update:
Finally got some time to finish out the wiring on the driving lights. Following the izzardkings advice i went and bought a meter, tested power w/ engine running and w/o, used a ez-splice and tied into a wire for power to the switch. Pretty simple all in all. Everything worked fine. Even wired up the daystar switch, replacing the generic switch that came with the harness.
Just went out for a cruise and see how much light these things give off.
Driving down the road i switched them on and off a couple of times, impressing myself with the amount of light they put off.:bravo:
Then nothing. Power still going to the illuminated switch, but now no power to the stereo and dome/map lights, and the clock has reset itself and is real dim.......:shrug:
Got back to the house and immediately looked at the fuse box in the cab, all is well, checked all the fuses. Opened up the fuse box under the hood, all is well here as well. Opened up the 15 amp "glass fuse" that is connected to the battery. It was blown.
So since i apparently have no idea what is going on. So what has happened.......and what do i do to solve this??
Finally got some time to finish out the wiring on the driving lights. Following the izzardkings advice i went and bought a meter, tested power w/ engine running and w/o, used a ez-splice and tied into a wire for power to the switch. Pretty simple all in all. Everything worked fine. Even wired up the daystar switch, replacing the generic switch that came with the harness.
Just went out for a cruise and see how much light these things give off.
Driving down the road i switched them on and off a couple of times, impressing myself with the amount of light they put off.:bravo:
Then nothing. Power still going to the illuminated switch, but now no power to the stereo and dome/map lights, and the clock has reset itself and is real dim.......:shrug:
Got back to the house and immediately looked at the fuse box in the cab, all is well, checked all the fuses. Opened up the fuse box under the hood, all is well here as well. Opened up the 15 amp "glass fuse" that is connected to the battery. It was blown.
So since i apparently have no idea what is going on. So what has happened.......and what do i do to solve this??
the great him
Elite Member
sounds like either that "ez-splice" isnt making good contact? did you use some di-electric grease on the connections? -i think those splices are junk anyways, the will be a nightmare for you further on down the road, i have yet to use one that didnt give me troubles, so i stopped using them. the other possibility might be that you have a bad ground or bad connection some place else that created a extra draw/load and popped your fuse. what wattage of bulb are you using?
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