Wiring question for AOB switches

[5280 TRail-Runner]

Hi All,

I'm a fairly new 4runner owner but I have been lurking in the shadows on this forum admiring and drooling over all of the amazing builds and of course reading and absorbing as much knowledge as I can in hopes of one day being able to have a rig like the ones I see here! With that said, I do my best to research what I can as thoroughly as I can before I work on a project but I have hit a snag with one I am planning on doing when I get my AOB switches in.

I am looking for a power source that will light up the backlight on the AOB switches when the dash lights come on BUT I do not want to tap into my factory wiring harness which is why I want to tap in the fuse box via the “tail” or “panel” fuse which I think should do what I am looking for. My questions is, I have about 4 switches and maybe more that I want to wire up so is it ok for me to use the same fuse to power all of the AOB switches? If so, what is the best way to go about wiring them up?

I’ve attached a mockup I did of how I think I should wire this up if it is ok for me to use the one fuse to power multiple AOB lights. I could be completely wrong with the wiring and if so, please correct me as I do not want to fry my electrical or worse.

As for the switches, all of the accessories hooked up to these switches have their own fuse relay or is under the 3amp threshold the switches can handle.

While I am on the subject of add-a-circuit, is it ok for me to do that same with my dash cams? I have one in the front and one in the back and was wondering if I could do the same as mentioned above. If not, i can always tap into another fuse or one not being used. I’m just looking to consolidate where I can so I have don’t tap into a bunch of fuses.

Thanks in advance for the feedback and input!

 

[Diver Deuce]

Hi All,

I'm a fairly new 4runner owner but I have been lurking in the shadows on this forum admiring and drooling over all of the amazing builds and of course reading and absorbing as much knowledge as I can in hopes of one day being able to have a rig like the ones I see here! With that said, I do my best to research what I can as thoroughly as I can before I work on a project but I have hit a snag with one I am planning on doing when I get my AOB switches in.

I am looking for a power source that will light up the backlight on the AOB switches when the dash lights come on BUT I do not want to tap into my factory wiring harness which is why I want to tap in the fuse box via the “tail” or “panel” fuse which I think should do what I am looking for. My questions is, I have about 4 switches and maybe more that I want to wire up so is it ok for me to use the same fuse to power all of the AOB switches? If so, what is the best way to go about wiring them up?

I’ve attached a mockup I did of how I think I should wire this up if it is ok for me to use the one fuse to power multiple AOB lights. I could be completely wrong with the wiring and if so, please correct me as I do not want to fry my electrical or worse.

As for the switches, all of the accessories hooked up to these switches have their own fuse relay or is under the 3amp threshold the switches can handle.

While I am on the subject of add-a-circuit, is it ok for me to do that same with my dash cams? I have one in the front and one in the back and was wondering if I could do the same as mentioned above. If not, i can always tap into another fuse or one not being used. I’m just looking to consolidate where I can so I have don’t tap into a bunch of fuses.

Thanks in advance for the feedback and input!

Both ways should be sufficien. I did the daisy chain method keeping everything fairly neat. I have all my accessories hooked up to relays just to be safe.

As far as the dash can goes no impact no idea.

 

[FrenchToasty]

Search sakers build thread, if you want the aob back lights to come on with your dash lights you will have to tap into your factory harness in some way, some people tie into the switches left of the wheel to get backlight power and ground. If you don't want to tie into your harness but still want them to come on with your dash lights you will have to add another switch and manually do it.......pia..... Just tap into dash light circuit and be done
Also look into a prewired fuse/relay box, much neater and easier

 

[Bikemedic]

Hi All,

I'm a fairly new 4runner owner but I have been lurking in the shadows on this forum admiring and drooling over all of the amazing builds and of course reading and absorbing as much knowledge as I can in hopes of one day being able to have a rig like the ones I see here! With that said, I do my best to research what I can as thoroughly as I can before I work on a project but I have hit a snag with one I am planning on doing when I get my AOB switches in.

I am looking for a power source that will light up the backlight on the AOB switches when the dash lights come on BUT I do not want to tap into my factory wiring harness which is why I want to tap in the fuse box via the “tail” or “panel” fuse which I think should do what I am looking for. My questions is, I have about 4 switches and maybe more that I want to wire up so is it ok for me to use the same fuse to power all of the AOB switches? If so, what is the best way to go about wiring them up?

I’ve attached a mockup I did of how I think I should wire this up if it is ok for me to use the one fuse to power multiple AOB lights. I could be completely wrong with the wiring and if so, please correct me as I do not want to fry my electrical or worse.

As for the switches, all of the accessories hooked up to these switches have their own fuse relay or is under the 3amp threshold the switches can handle.

While I am on the subject of add-a-circuit, is it ok for me to do that same with my dash cams? I have one in the front and one in the back and was wondering if I could do the same as mentioned above. If not, i can always tap into another fuse or one not being used. I’m just looking to consolidate where I can so I have don’t tap into a bunch of fuses.

Thanks in advance for the feedback and input!

Either way will work just fine. The amp draw for the backlights are minimal. If you want it to look need, prefab the wiring on a bench and solder and use heat shrink tubing.

 

[TRUSTYAXE]

Method 1 will be cleaner, minus the unnecessary extra connection on the feed side. Going from 1 wire to 4 is never pretty. From what I understand you will have to tap the harness as shown in sakers build, especially if you want them to dim with your other dash lights.

 

[Saker]

Please post how you achieved getting the feed that will also dim your switch lights without tapping directly into the harness wire.
Millions would love to do this!

Well, maybe not millions, but you get the picture!

 

[flyrv9]

Method 1 involves 5 connections. Method 2 involves 1 connection. Fewer connections = fewer problems!

 

[Simonpk]

Would appreciate some advice as I've read all the posts on ARB compressor wiring, light bar install and TPMS light disable. I drew out the schematics and wanted to know if these will work ok. Problem I had is that for the light bar and the compressor I had a whole lot of wires not needed as all I think I need to do is to trigger low side of the relay as per my sketches.

Seems too simple?

 

[Simonpk]

forgot 2 of my sketches

 

[jdm-v35]

I would probably stay away from the gray/dimming ground. I have read in another thread that this can blow the BCM which costs like $600 since it is controlled by that. I believe it could be too much load. I only used the green wire and a regular ground for regular on/off illumination.

 

[Bugser]

I would probably stay away from the gray/dimming ground. I have read in another thread that this can blow the BCM which costs like $600 since it is controlled by that. I believe it could be too much load. I only used the green wire and a regular ground for regular on/off illumination.

I tapped the gray and green off of the wiper warmer and have had no issues. Have 2 AOB’s daisy chained. There is minimal draw, just the 2 small LEDs for switch illumination


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Simonpk]

thanks so much for both answers - I'm going to go down the safe route & not have the AOB switches dimmable - $600 risk is just not worth it!