Wiring to rear of vehicle for power distribution - does this look ok?

[jayhat]

1) As far as circuit breakers go, should I have another one near the rear power distribution point? Is the 100a one off the battery enough?

2) 4GA wire good enough for this?

3) Anyone know of any factory ground points at the rear of the vehicle?

What might I run? Possibly a fridge, basic lighting, charging devices, charging goal zero/inergy apex type device while driving, etc.

 

[jp.vegas]

Yep. That’s a good plan.

You don’t need another breaker in the rear (that’s what the fuse block does) but make sure to mount the one you’re planning under the hood as close to the battery as possible to minimize the length of unprotected high current wire.

 

[BobsTrail]

IMO - Looks like massive overkill. A 15 or 20 amp breaker and #10 wire will probably handle all you mentioned with capacity to spare. There is a good factory ground point at the built in inverter above the rear wheel.

 

[Cajun_TRD]

I'd put the fuse block under the dash so you can tie in stuff there later (CB, VHF, switches, etc. With your current drawing, if the breaker trips you have to find a short in the wire that goes ALL the way through the engine compartment and all through the interior. Putting the fuse near the firewall means that if the wire gets damaged on the interior the fuse will blow. If the breaker blows then you only have to check the wire to the fuse.

 

[Rack]

1) As far as circuit breakers go, should I have another one near the rear power distribution point? Is the 100a one off the battery enough?

2) 4GA wire good enough for this?

3) Anyone know of any factory ground points at the rear of the vehicle?

What might I run? Possibly a fridge, basic lighting, charging devices, charging goal zero/inergy apex type device while driving, etc.

100 amp breaker is a little over what the #4 wire is rated for. ( its rated at 95 amps) and that depends on the wires insulation.
To save space under the hood you could use a Blue sea 5191 fuse holder that attaches to the battery terminal. This will eliminated the need for the breaker.
Blue sea also has a dual fuse Block the 2151. It holds two fuses so if you ad another circuit, say under the hood you can fuse that at a different amperage rating.
This might eliminate the bus bar in your circuit and still provide for future sub panel or relay panel under the hood.
Don't get me wrong Your on the right track
Calculate what your amperage draw will be with all you equipment you intend to have in the back.
#4 will be fine but might be overkill for your needs.

Lots of information in this forum, Most of it in the threads about refrigerators

I did something similar to this last year. Go to my Album page and take a look.