WMW Full Length Rack for 4th Gen T4R's!!

I called a number of places while the rack was being built and the best rate I could get was $400. :der:

Which to me was pretty darn high. After seeing all the folks on here getting it PC'd I got through to a guy I've been trying to reach for weeks (friends have gotten work done there and it's good quality but he sucks at customer service) and he quoted me $150 for all the prep work and a satin black powdercoat and can have it done w/in a week.

That seems MUCH more reasonable so I'll be dropping mine off tomorrow. I'm an experienced enough spray paint artist but prepping the mesh seemed like no fun haha.

Thanks for doing the leg work for me:banana:

Lemme know where your going or pm me if you can. I will be getting a rack as well.

What size light bar is that up front? Im going to have alley lights installed too. After seeing the gobi ladder on fedrl's i might skip the rear lights though.

One last thing; for anybody, I need service in NoVA and I know someone here is at a garage in the area. I thought I subscribed to a thread for later refference, but I cant find it and am pulling blanks in my search. I know the shop is next to some hobby store and a computer place in VA...
 
Smichaelq, check my build thread for my rear light setup inside the rear window.

As for powdercoat, I went to a HUGE industrial powder coater and the price was $120 for powder coat and $65 for sandblasting. They were pretty adamant about sand blasting for proper adhesion also. They even chased the threads on the cross bars when it was done.
 
Thanks for doing the leg work for me:banana:

Lemme know where your going or pm me if you can. I will be getting a rack as well.

What size light bar is that up front? Im going to have alley lights installed too. After seeing the gobi ladder on fedrl's i might skip the rear lights though.

One last thing; for anybody, I need service in NoVA and I know someone here is at a garage in the area. I thought I subscribed to a thread for later refference, but I cant find it and am pulling blanks in my search. I know the shop is next to some hobby store and a computer place in VA...

I'm taking the rack to Extreme powdercoating in Lorton. They'll be sandblasting/prepping then applying the satin black finish.

Light bar is the BC 41" Hanma bar I got through Gaterose. I skipped the rear lights and will be installing some rear floods in the factory rear bumper reflectors (totally stole the install idea from Gaterose but it looks so cool I had to! :reddance:)

Def check out High Tech in Chantilly. That's where I'll be going once I get all the suspension finalized so they can dial in the alignment. I think 'Ducmonsta' (on the 5th gen section a lot) works there? I've heard nothing but great things.
 
For all the 40" light bar likers out there, the 40" hanma bar measures 41.5" for installation purposes, my rack is 41" inside. Clearly there is a fitment issue and Hokie was able to have his light bar(s) shipped to me for fitment into his rack. It required serious modification to the front of the rack as you can see. I think the biggest issue was the double row bar's height, im sure a single row bar would be a little skinnier and able to fit behind my standard front stanchions much easier. Basically, if you plan to put one of these big 'ol bars on your rack, let me know so i can discuss the best option with you. When i designed this rack i envisioned having two 12" bars in the two openings, for what its worth:thumb:
 
Those look fantastic. I'm really considering a roof rack that I can get for a reasonable price. Thanks to Red for turning me on to this thread. I have a few other things to do before I pull the trigger.

My buddy built his own custom rear bumper for his Jeep CJ5 and it looked outstanding. Why I bring it up is that he used POR-15 for coating it. The finish looks great and it's very durable. POR-15 also makes putty to fill in any areas around welds that you want to smooth out. However your welds look great.

I just might buy one and piss off the wife. It'll be a few weeks before I order one. Nice work sir and good luck with it.

http://www.por15.com/
 
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Got to test out my rack for its intended purpose today. Two sheets of 5/8" Sheetrock and two sheets of 3/4" plywood. It fit perfect.

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E1C888A2-4C6C-4208-93F5-6E30479A119B-5234-00000566DE19C112_zps3c309c9d.jpg~original


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I have tried the por-15
Bewhere I used there hard nose paint that says its for earth graders blades I followed the directions and put it on my sliders let it cure for 4 days it looked great but i put a jack stand under my slider and let the jack down slowly i heard a crunch and it flaked off also i found it is coming off my slider where it is not exposed
I Also paid extra for it to be put on my rear bumper and after a few months it started to rust which is really bad since I am in colorado where things don't rust easily
I called the company and no return call yet 6 weeks later

I just don't want anyone to be out the money
 

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I have mine installed now and can't say enough good things about the craftsmanship and customer service from Josh. I do have one slight issue. Is there a way to get rid of the humming/vibration noise? I'm assuming that I just need to fab up some sort of fairing, but thought I'd see what others are doing first.
 
Yeah that's the wind noise, just no way to put 7' of tube up there and not hear it no matter how sleek. Myself and other use plexiglass and cut a simple fairing, attach with zip ties or other simple hardware like cushion clamps or the like. Mine is totally effective and I hear zero wind noise with it.
 
Yeah that's the wind noise, just no way to put 7' of tube up there and not hear it no matter how sleek. Myself and other use plexiglass and cut a simple fairing, attach with zip ties or other simple hardware like cushion clamps or the like. Mine is totally effective and I hear zero wind noise with it.

So it is the tubes, not the metal mesh, good to know. I assume a piece that goes from the top tube to the bottom tube will suffice?
 

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