Woops - Lifting mistake

Truck4

Truck4

New member
i installed my lift kit today and I put the bilstein adjustable coilover with eibachs on the middle setting. I didn't have any hard data about how high the lift would be... and it turned out to be really high. On the rear I have the OME 891's and didn't lift it very much. They are actually the same height unsprung as the stock, something I wish I had known before I bought them but oh well. Anyways, here is the picture.
2015-04-18.jpg

Still not sure if I want to take the rear higher or bring the front down. The front coilovers ride pretty rough but it's such a PITA to take them apart and rebuild them lol. I'm gonna wait two or so weeks for them to settle and then reevaluate.
 
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I just checked and they look good (aka spring less compressed). Took some measurements from center of wheel to wheel well and it came out to be 24.5 in front and 23 in the rear. I think if I move the spring seat to the lowest notch instead of the second notch it will even out. I didn't know that the eibachs would add so much height on their own!
 
I think the middle setting will be like 4" of lift.

Hard to really tell but if your upper arms are angled like that then your CV's must be at a pretty bad angle.
 
Something's not right. My 890's gave me about a 3" lift which is the same as the 891's they just have a higher spring rate. There's no way those 891s would give you the same lift as stock. What kind of Eibach and shocks (Tundra or Tacoma) did you get? Take a pic of your entire coilover also, if possible. The UCA is being pushed down a lot.
 
JRZEE2000TR4LTD said:
Something's not right. My 890's gave me about a 3" lift which is the same as the 891's they just have a higher spring rate. There's no way those 891s would give you the same lift as stock. What kind of Eibach and shocks (Tundra or Tacoma) did you get? Take a pic of your entire coilover also, if possible. The UCA is being pushed down a lot.
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I'll do it tomorrow when it's light out again. And the 891's did give me around 3" of lift because they don't compress as much, but what I meant was when they are not on the vehicle they are around pretty much the same length.
 
Truck4 said:
I'll do it tomorrow when it's light out again. And the 891's did give me around 3" of lift because they don't compress as much, but what I meant was when they are not on the vehicle they are around pretty much the same length.
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Thats normal. The 891's have higher spring rate and rings are closer together giving you the lift
 
Truck4 said:
I'll do it tomorrow when it's light out again. And the 891's did give me around 3" of lift because they don't compress as much, but what I meant was when they are not on the vehicle they are around pretty much the same length.
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Yes and when wheeling the ome's don't flex as well and tire will come off ground before shock maxes out. My lc coils will flex all the way until shock limits travel. Much better option imo.
 
JayRolla said:
Yes and when wheeling the ome's don't flex as well and tire will come off ground before shock maxes out. My lc coils will flex all the way until shock limits travel. Much better option imo.
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That makes sense for rock crawling. I usually am just on washboard and dirt roads with heavy loads in the back and people so this seemed like a good option as well. How many wraps do your LC coils have?
 
I think the spring perch is upside down. The 2nd notch will give a 3" lift on non-limited vehicles and a 2" lift on limited. I went with the middle slot on mine and my upper arm is not angled as far as yours. My buddy was helping when I lifted mine and it caused the arm to be in the same spot as yours. I could be wrong but the front is very tall. Did you install a diff drop? You'll need it. I have the trd coils with the 5100 and lc8 in the rear. I'm at 24 in the rear and 23 up front, which is how my setup should sit without the extra weight. Id get a spring compressor and move accordingly.
 
The TRD tundra coils you can run on different heights, the eibachs are designed to run on the bottom clip only. People need to just read the damn stickies.
 
Truck4 said:
That makes sense for rock crawling. I usually am just on washboard and dirt roads with heavy loads in the back and people so this seemed like a good option as well. How many wraps do your LC coils have?
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Yes they are perfect for that! LOL. I have new OEM 7 wraps, more like 7.5 wraps. I ended up getting about 4" total rear lift empty.
 
So I redid the fronts today and took pics after I finished. I moved the spring support to the bottom perch and then reinstalled. Here are the pics:
The new stance (much better)
15%2B-%2B1

15%2B-%2B2

15%2B-%2B4

15%2B-%2B5
 
adkins said:
I think the spring perch is upside down. The 2nd notch will give a 3" lift on non-limited vehicles and a 2" lift on limited. I went with the middle slot on mine and my upper arm is not angled as far as yours. My buddy was helping when I lifted mine and it caused the arm to be in the same spot as yours. I could be wrong but the front is very tall. Did you install a diff drop? You'll need it. I have the trd coils with the 5100 and lc8 in the rear. I'm at 24 in the rear and 23 up front, which is how my setup should sit without the extra weight. Id get a spring compressor and move accordingly.
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Yes, I installed the diff drop and the perches were the correct way, I just have the SR5 and it had it on the wrong setting. I'm building a winch bumper here shortly so the extra weight should help keep the front end down a bit.
 
Quick question, when I was installing the lift the left strut went in just fine without a pry bar after loosening the UCA's, but the left one was about a half inch away and I had to use the bar to get the strut in. When I got an alignment today the technician stated that he could get the left wheel within spec, but the right was off by a little bit (caster or camber, I can't remember).
Could these two things be related? Maybe something in there is tweaked/bent?
 
Truck4 said:
Quick question, when I was installing the lift the left strut went in just fine without a pry bar after loosening the UCA's, but the left one was about a half inch away and I had to use the bar to get the strut in. When I got an alignment today the technician stated that he could get the left wheel within spec, but the right was off by a little bit (caster or camber, I can't remember).
Could these two things be related? Maybe something in there is tweaked/bent?
Click to expand...

I'm gonna guess your camber might be just barely out of spec but your caster is probably way off like almost all of us with a lift like this.

The lack of caster will cause the truck to drive differently, the steering won't center itself as easily but shouldn't wear the tires.

I bought upper control arms that add caster to fix it.
 
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