Worst luck ever during sway bar bushing replacement

Sorry for reviving an old thread guys. I just had a debatable question.

When installing the bushings, is it better to place the bushings cut facing forward or facing back?

I know that from factory they are installed with the cut facing back. I feel like when you brake, you have more pressure towards the back than the front. Even though you shouldn't have any brake pressure at all on the bar. I was just wondering if having the cuts facing the front would be better. What do you guys think?
 
Sorry for reviving an old thread guys. I just had a debatable question.

When installing the bushings, is it better to place the bushings cut facing forward or facing back?

I know that from factory they are installed with the cut facing back. I feel like when you brake, you have more pressure towards the back than the front. Even though you shouldn't have any brake pressure at all on the bar. I was just wondering if having the cuts facing the front would be better. What do you guys think?

I put mine facing backwards, but I'm quite certain that it makes no difference whatsoever.
 
Anyone done this and just left their rig on the ground? Does this load the swaybar and cause it to have undue pressure on it when removing? Doing this next weekend and would rather just put it on the ramps but dont want the sway bar to jump out when I take out the bolts and break my nose or worse.

I just replaced my sway bar bushings today, as my sore finger I now can't type with will attest to. (Well, I tried to replace them, one of the bushing bracket bolts that are welded into the bracket sheared off. Need to replace one of those now too!)

I read that this repair could be done without lifting the vehicle. However, unless you have a 15" additional lift on your rig, I would not recommend trying it. The front sway bar bushing bracket has a nut on one end and a bolt on the other that needs to be undone, and they were not easy to reach or get good torque on even with my rig up on jack stands.

I realize that wasn't what you were asking, but it would be a real issue trying to get to those things without some elbow room.
 
Was headed down the road of replacing end links with longer ones and replacing all bushings, but then I decided to take the easy route and go sans-sway bar. Ain't so bad so far :lmao:
 
Well crap! I was all set change these bushings along with rack mounts and guide, but can't with the Energy Suspension bushings I ordered. The 26mm version i received from amazon is just too tight for the bracket even. I should have gotten the 26mm prothane version.

I measured my bar at a tad over 26mm and even the original Toyota part has a 26 on it. The outside dimensions on the energy suspension bushing is just too big for the bracket. I'll just have to run by the dealer and pick up a couple of Toyota bushings in order to finish the job.
 
Well crap! I was all set change these bushings along with rack mounts and guide, but can't with the Energy Suspension bushings I ordered. The 26mm version i received from amazon is just too tight for the bracket even. I should have gotten the 26mm prothane version.

I measured my bar at a tad over 26mm and even the original Toyota part has a 26 on it. The outside dimensions on the energy suspension bushing is just too big for the bracket. I'll just have to run by the dealer and pick up a couple of Toyota bushings in order to finish the job.

I had to order two kits and use parts from both kits. Damn Energy suspension!! Used the 26mm for the sway bar and used the end link bushings from the 27mm kit. The 26mm kit end link bushings where way over sized.

Im guessing you got a 27mm kit. Its either 26 or 27 that fit the bars.
 
And one more thing.

Does your AC condensation drip on your passenger side sway bar mount? The driver side bolt and nut broke loose way to easily almost like they had been removed recently. No rust. The passenger side however were rusted from having the AC condensation dripping on them. They didn't break when removing them but they were way harder to get off. Just curious.
 
I had to order two kits and use parts from both kits. Damn Energy suspension!! Used the 26mm for the sway bar and used the end link bushings from the 27mm kit. The 26mm kit end link bushings where way over sized.

Im guessing you got a 27mm kit. Its either 26 or 27 that fit the bars.

I got the 26mm kit. I hope I don't run into the problem with the end link bushings as well. Mine actually need to be replaced.
 
So the 26mm kit was still too big? Never heard of that, dont know of a 25mm kit.

I will admit that I got the parts late last night and only had a chance to put the bushing into the bracket. Bushing in bracket looked almost like the pic on the first page. I need to put the bushing onto the bar and then into the bracket. I don't see that making a difference though. I'll try this before running off to the dealer.

I know bushings should be snug but the new ones I put on our old Mazda van were nowhere near this ill fitting.
 
I was told the poly squeeks, not the end link components but if you replace the larger primary bushings with poly expect them to make noise. The OEM bushings are actually pretty great.
 
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Well the 26mm Energy Suspension bushing was not going to work even after trying it on the bar. Picked up the actual Toyota bushing and I am almost good to go.

As I was torquing down the bolt on the rear of the driver bracket, I heard this pop sound and then the ting of something hitting metal. The darn stud and nut somehow snapped off the front of the bracket. I don't know how, it wasn't even fully torqued yet. Now I have to drill it out for a bolt and nut or get a new bracket.

I guess it doesn't always go smoothly.
 
Anyone done this and just left their rig on the ground? Does this load the swaybar and cause it to have undue pressure on it when removing? Doing this next weekend and would rather just put it on the ramps but dont want the sway bar to jump out when I take out the bolts and break my nose or worse.
I did mine completely on the ground no jack at all, worked out fine for me.
 
Well the 26mm Energy Suspension bushing was not going to work even after trying it on the bar. Picked up the actual Toyota bushing and I am almost good to go.

As I was torquing down the bolt on the rear of the driver bracket, I heard this pop sound and then the ting of something hitting metal. The darn stud and nut somehow snapped off the front of the bracket. I don't know how, it wasn't even fully torqued yet. Now I have to drill it out for a bolt and nut or get a new bracket.

I guess it doesn't always go smoothly.

Same thing happened to me. I still have not replaced it, so far the bracket has not bent, but have not gone hard wheeling yet. Mine was on the rear bracket.
 
I was told the poly squeeks, not the end link components but if you replace the larger primary bushings with poly expect them to make noise. The OEM bushings are actually pretty great.

I really dont understand this. I have ran POLY greased motor mounts, sway bar links, control arm bushings, every single rubber grommet on my Talon was replaced with poly and never had a single squeak. If you grease them they dont squeak. Its that simple.
 
Last Fall, I was under the truck doing the LBJ's and TRE's and noticed the bolt top was separated on both end links... how long this was so, I don't know. To my surprise, even up here in Canada, the endlinks were only $22 each! So, the next day I did an oil change on my Wifes' Mitsubishi Lancer, and noticed those endlinks were snapped off as well! Now that I was 2 for 2, I had a look at my Corolla, and sure enough, one side was snapped off as well! 3 for 3!! Luckily they're cheap! I suppose its just wear, as I don't see myself as driving our vehicles particularly hard.... well maybe the kids are hard on the Corolla....I'm sure they're thinking what Dad doesn't know, won't hurt him....
 

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