Would you use a no-name oil like Supertech?

[Bluesky 07]

Given today's standards for oil, I believe any conventional or synthetic brand that meets those standards is fine to use in my 4Runner. I'm also pretty certain that any differences in protection or performance are minimal and essentially insignificant over the life of the vehicle. (Filters are a different story.)

But...I still find myself reluctant to buy generic oil, even though I know it has to come from the same refineries as oil from the major manufacturers, and even though I don't think twice about using generic medications, vitamins, etc.

What about you? Do you, or would you, use a generic brand of oil? Why or why not?

 

[Bluesky 07]

Just want to thank the other two people who voted... ;-)

 

[Beaumont67]

Voted

While OP is in GA, I've proved to myself in Canada - oil differences:
All oil is not created equal, on a small air compressor (used for air nailer).
- in sub zero Celsius, the electric motor always blew a 110v-15amp fuse / unit stored in cold garage
- once I brought compressor in the house sun room, for a few hours to warn up (74^F)...it would startup
- so I dumped all the compressor oil (cheap stuff, from manufacturer) & refilled with Amsoil synthetic pump oil (expensive stuff)
- both oils same grade, one worked-one didn't
^^ Now compressor starts up, in the cold garage.

Anytime excess heat or cold is present, oil will be effected - now all I use is Pennzoil Ultra and a WIX XP filter...both synthetic, and decently priced.
- its cheap insurance

PS - when its below freezing and with blowing winds, engine blocks & internal oil get real cold, with vehicles parked outside overnight.
With premium synthetic oil, my engine will turn over noticeably quicker / so less stress on starter & battery drain.
- my first 2 AGM batteries failed at 9 & 10 years old
- so I'm not running down my 12v battery and heating up my starter cooper winding's...don't have to crank, crank, crank (with the key on)

Next oil change - will also be using Amsoil Racing Grease, on all the grease fittings. Less washout / extended oil change frequency. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=211763

 

[GMZ]

Nope. But then again it depends on what your usage is.

Easy highway commute, changing it every 5k? ST is fine for this.

City driving, mtn passes, off road, cold temps, changing it every 15k? No way, no how.

The base stocks being the same is debatable, but there is no comparing the add pack.

Above being stated, ST is not a bad oil within its performance envelope from the UOAs I have seen.

 

[Elan750]

Happily using Walmart super tech synthetic for $17/ 5 quarts :biggrin2:

There's great lab analysis of it online.

 

[ZebRuaj]

Used to be an oil snob with my previous vehicles, but I think it all depends on the motor and it's maintenance history. Ran Eneos, RP, Amsoil in my previous Honda's cause Vtec! and 9k red line, but I rarely got it up there. Wasted money on boutique oils. Hope the next owner is getting use out of the car.

On my current fleet of Toyota's (T4R, Rav4, Maxtrix, Camry), it's whatever is on sale that meets the requirements. We bought the Rav4 new, was on M1 for the longest time, then PP. It was dumped around 5k. The maintenance light comes on at 5k for all of them and the family flips out, no matter how much I tell them that the motor won't blow up with another 1-2k of usage.

All are currently running on a stash of Napa Syn while the T4R is on a diet of Maxlife. These vehicles are commuters. Nothing special. Just cold temps here and there. Change the oil when the light comes on. Family's paranoia stays at bay and I get wrenching time in the garage.

 

[ryanlord43]

I honestly don't care about what oil I am putting into my 4runner it really doesn't seem to care either. My Silvia on the other hand gets only the best. lol

 

[tuborg_15]

motomaster oil

Voted

While OP is in GA, I've proved to myself in Canada - oil differences:
All oil is not created equal, on a small air compressor (used for air nailer).
- in sub zero Celsius, the electric motor always blew a 110v-15amp fuse / unit stored in cold garage
- once I brought compressor in the house sun room, for a few hours to warn up (74^F)...it would startup
- so I dumped all the compressor oil (cheap stuff, from manufacturer) & refilled with Amsoil synthetic pump oil (expensive stuff)
- both oils same grade, one worked-one didn't
^^ Now compressor starts up, in the cold garage.

Anytime excess heat or cold is present, oil will be effected - now all I use is Pennzoil Ultra and a WIX XP filter...both synthetic, and decently priced.
- its cheap insurance

PS - when its below freezing and with blowing winds, engine blocks & internal oil get real cold, with vehicles parked outside overnight.
With premium synthetic oil, my engine will turn over noticeably quicker / so less stress on starter & battery drain.
- my first 2 AGM batteries failed at 9 & 10 years old
- so I'm not running down my 12v battery and heating up my starter cooper winding's...don't have to crank, crank, crank (with the key on)

Next oil change - will also be using Amsoil Racing Grease, on all the grease fittings. Less washout / extended oil change frequency. Amsoil Racing Grease-yes or no? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

My 2004 4runner v8 is almost due for an oil change and I thought of grabbing a 5w30 oil and filter get going.
But I thought lets google it and thats where the confusion grew...Synthetic vs conventional, Cheap vs expensive, mobil 1 vs other brands and so on..
My question after long research -
1- do synthetic oil tend to initiate leaks?
2- came across Motomaster conventional oil. low temp startup and high temp friction protection.
3- should I use high mileage oil?

My 4runner is at 22500km...

Thanks

 

[Bumbo]

As long as it meets spec and weight, I don’t care… ill use it.

I don’t buy expensive oil or go our of my way to buy anything advertised as better. Conventional dyno oil, change it regularly. I use an OEM filter that cost $4 each in bulk, and I have over 200k miles and still going strong.

If you think the dealerships are using anything different you would most likely be mistaken. I suspect it’s the flavor of the month barrel, purchase order to the lowest bidder, and is probably no different than how SuperTech oil finds it’s way into that bottle.

That said, I also have some Chevron branded oil which was sitting right next to the SuperTech for about the same price. If it makes you feel any better spend a few extra cents and problem solved.

Ill also say that I believe a quality full synthetic is a higher quality oil. I’ve seen plenty of examples and explanations of why it’s better, but I question the need to switch in my motor that has never seen anything other than conventional. My 5th gen came with full synthetic, and I will continue to run it, but I am not going to overthink it either because I’ve done it and its exhausting.

Changing it regularly IMO is the key the success.

 

[rdruss]

If you live and drive in relatively warm climates, i.e., never see 0 - 20 F consistently then 'generic' may be ok. If you do see cold temps for extended periods then you want an oil that flows quickly when cold to your critical engine parts. If I was considering an off-brand oil I would buy a quart and put it in freezer overnight with a quart of Mobil1, or Valvoline Syn, or other brand name synthetic and do my own pour test.
From that I would make a more informed decision.