What oil do you use in your 4runner?

[Bluesky 07]

The key takeaway is that all of this is empirical and anecdotal. Oil arguments are probably the major data storage consumers on car forum servers.

I use synthetic in my cars, starting with my first car in the late 90s. In the 4Runner, I go with Castrol Edge Pro. The factory engine specs and use data (the empirical stuff on the forums and such) show this is a reasonable choice, which should do fine with my 5k mi OCI. Ive never bothered to send in an oil sample to Blackstone or such, given the Toyota V6 or V8 is a relatively inexpensive engine to overhaul or replace.

With the V6 or V8, I also think that high-end oils like Redline or Motul 100% Ester are not necessary, nor would their high-end conventional counterparts like Brad Penn be necessary (I do like Penn's break in oil, though I switch back to synthetic after the break in period). That said, if one wanted to run it in their 1GR or 2UZ, I wouldnt have a problem with it, not that my opinion matters anyway, its their money.

This, and I'll go a step farther: assuming you use oil that meets Toyota's specs and change it at appropriate intervals, any actual differences in engine performance, wear, and longevity related to what oil you use are so small that they're insignificant. The engine couldn't care less whether it's running Royal Purple or Supertech; it's owners who obsess over this stuff.

 

[Heffernan]

Does Toyota make a 5w-30 synthetic?

I do have the option to use synthetic oil when I go in for oil changes at my dealer. However, speaking to a few service managers, they all recommend sticking with the conventional. Good enough for me lol.

 

[cooper30]

I use NAPA 5w/30 synth blend. It's cheap enough when I buy it at one of their sales. I have 132.5k on my '08 4Runner 4.7

I change at 3k obsessively. Intellectually I know it's overkill, but I'm old and it's a hard habit to break.

I've run it in all of my kids' cars.....a couple Camrys, an Avalon, and a couple ES300s...they spread the years from '98 to '02. All went 300k+ except my youngest's Avalon that is in current usage with 178k.

I use it in my wife's '04 ES330 as well (166k).

I use it in my plow truck with 199k, too....but that's not a Toyota.

One thing of note....in the V6s that have been in my kids' cars, I never noticed any of the typical sludge that those engines tend to get. I'm sure some of that has to do with the more frequent oil changes, but it's still worthy to note.

 

[Captsolo]

Conventional...as recommended by the dealership.

Same here. I change oil and filter every 5000 miles. It's a Toyota. Big difference from other brands. Tried synthetic one time but got "drips".

2005 150,000 miles on 4runner (short miles - based in Nassau Bahamas - 2 to 3 mile trips average)

the car starts and runs like it did 15 years ago when new. No clicking valves (louder and louder), no noisy lifters. Only thing that needs replacing every 4 years has been the starters (about 4 of them). I just buy a $100 starter off Amazon. Keep a spare in the garage for backup. In my experience, the starters just quit with no warning. One final start if you smack it with a hammer lightly! Do not bother to rebuild one. Stupid.

Why do my starters always die in my driveway? Lucky, I guess.

OEM WP and alternator; exhaust, etc.

When I called the local Toyota dealer 10 years ago after OEM starter failed, he said they could order one from Japan for $900. Scary because I purchased the 4runner new from them.

My car was built in Japan and was never landed in the USA.

Other than oil changes and filters, this 4runner is maintenance-free. Just garaged. Paint like factory new. No rust anywhere.

I do the plugs now and then. Don't buy them lasting 100,000 miles.

I had a 1996 GMC Jimmy from new and it rusted away to a rust bucket. Still ran ok, but was hard starting so I sold it for $800 after 10 years of ownership (80,000 miles).

2005 4runner has 150,000 miles. Much better quality and no rust.

 

[Drcoffee]

For me, I live in the Midwest where in the winter it might be -10*F in the morning. Conventional oil is like sludge and will not flow in the engine until it warms up. Also, as it ages, conventional oil thickens and loses its rating. Synthetic oil is just as good going in as it is coming out, only dirty. I run mobil1 8,000-10,000 miles between changes. Never ever had sludge or coking inside my engines.

This video is a good demo on oil properties

Is Synthetic Motor Oil Better For Your Car? - YouTube

And I never listen to the dealer service writers suggestion. They dont know their azz from a hole in the ground when it comes to what your car needs. They up-sell. Thats their job.

 

[rdruss]

I use Valvoline 5W30 Maxlife and 5W30 Full Syn, 50/50 and OEM filter.
'03 V8, 145K, no oil leaks. Oil never sees 5000 miles before change.

 

[benztech82]

Motul excess clean eco 5w30 synthetic. It's a low ash oil for diesels.

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk

 

[PC1978]

Mobil 1 Annual Protection (M1 15k mile prior to Annual hitting the market) with a M1 extended life filter.
Buy at Walmart.
10k mile service interval.
No leaks.

Can Engine Oil Be Proven To Last 20,000 Miles? - YouTube

 

[Captsolo]

I owned my T4R for 4 years and switched to synthetic when I bought it, it's the V8 and had some minor oil leaking around the valve covers when I got it, not sure what type oil was used in it prior, I did retorque the valve covers but there's still some minor leaking, the strange thing is that I fill it to the proper level and check it about a week after every oil change to be sure it's still at the full mark, I change the oil at 7500 miles intervals and the oil is always still at the full level every time when I change it.

I couldn't figure out how it was leaking enough to be noticeably "wet" but never show as being low on the dipstick after 7500 miles....but then our buddy captsolo pointed out how the synthetic is "slick" and I know it thinner than conventional oil and I think I got it figure out...the synthetic is slick and thin enough to leak out passed the bad valve cover gaskets...but those same qualities is letting it leak back into the engine, it the only explanation and I think I remember in one of the Scotty's videos that captsolo posted that Scotty mentioned that this can happen and since he has 50 years experience and since I only have 45 years experience doing mechanical work I BELIEVE HIM!!!

But all kidding aside synthetic is very thin so any little leak is going to look much worst than it actually is, it never leaks enough to cause any drips under the vehicle, I do plan on replacing the valve cover gaskets when I replace the plugs in the near future.

The amount of synthetic that was dripping on my garage floor was not significant but certainly annoying. Switching back to conventional stopped the drips almost entirely. I change conventional oil every 5000 miles so I don't see any need for synthetic - at two times the cost.

2005 4runner purchased new. Has 150,000 miles and runs like new.

Actually, I have no plans to change over to synthetic after the first experience and the "drips"..

Owners have a right to run whatever oil they choose. It's just, I don't see any benefits in using synthetic "to increase milage"; better performance, engineer durability. Other myths!!!

There simply is no proof if you change the conventional every 5000 miles you are going to end up worse than when using an expensive synthetic.

Oils are much better today than 40 years ago.

UPDATE 11/15/2020 5:40AM): since the second conventional oil change I don't even see a drop of oil on my garage floor. The synthetic leaked like my old Northstar (all the time), and made a never-ending "mess".

As firebirdguy says (and I don't know where he got the info), my house in the Gated community in the Bahamas cost me $550 in cash to build 20 years ago but is worth over $1M today. His thinking I am an oil expert is his joke. Never claimed any such thing.

My Old 15-year-old 4 runners does leak on synthetic. I've seen it in my own driveway and garage. Went back to conventional and the dripping mess stopped - c o m p l e t ely.

 

[firebirdguy]

the captain has spoken... synthetic oil is all a myth & you are all ranting trolls for using it! after all his house costs $500k so hes an oil expert! :toilet:

& dont forget to report back here when your head gaskets fail because of the "super slick" synthetic oil! :rofl:

 

[nytefog]

Redline 5w-30

Redline is one of the only true synthetic motor oils that use group 4 and group 5 stock base oils and NO group 3 “synthetics”. Any motor oil with group 3 base oil is not a true synthetic oil. Group 3 is just a highly refined mineral oil, GTL and extreme hydrocracking, that was the center of a lawsuit between Mobil and Castrol that changed what could be labeled synthetic in many countries. Castrol wanted their group 3 oil to be classified as synthetic so they wouldn’t have to pay Mobil for PAO base oil, a group 4 base oil, and instead use group 3 with a small amount of PAO and be able to label it synthetic. In Germany synthetic motor oil can not be labeled synthetic if it contains group 3 base oils.

Now Mobil, Amsoil and most every other brand of oil hardly contain any group 4 PAO, or group 5 esters, oils now and use mainly group 3 base oils. If you look at the SDS sheets for the oil you want you will be able to determine if it has group 3,4, or 5 base oils in it. You just need to check the CAS # to determine exactly what type of base oils are used. The percentages of each base oil are given but only in a percentage range since the oil blend is proprietary for each motor manufacturer/blender. German motor oil manufacturers can sell group 3 as synthetic outside Germany so German synthetic oils in the USA contain group 3 base oils with some PAO base oil.

Group 3 base oil isn’t bad but it isn’t a true full synthetic motor oil

Red Line Synthetic Oil. 5W30 Motor Oil

 

[Bluesky 07]

Redline is one of the only true synthetic motor oils that use group 4 and group 5 stock base oils and NO group 3 “synthetics”. Any motor oil with group 3 base oil is not a true synthetic oil. Group 3 is just a highly refined mineral oil, GTL and extreme hydrocracking, that was the center of a lawsuit between Mobil and Castrol that changed what could be labeled synthetic in many countries. Castrol wanted their group 3 oil to be classified as synthetic so they wouldn’t have to pay Mobil for PAO base oil, a group 4 base oil, and instead use group 3 with a small amount of PAO and be able to label it synthetic. In Germany synthetic motor oil can not be labeled synthetic if it contains group 3 base oils.

Now Mobil, Amsoil and most every other brand of oil hardly contain any group 4 PAO, or group 5 esters, oils now and use mainly group 3 base oils. If you look at the SDS sheets for the oil you want you will be able to determine if it has group 3,4, or 5 base oils in it. You just need to check the CAS # to determine exactly what type of base oils are used. The percentages of each base oil are given but only in a percentage range since the oil blend is proprietary for each motor manufacturer/blender. German motor oil manufacturers can sell group 3 as synthetic outside Germany so German synthetic oils in the USA contain group 3 base oils with some PAO base oil.

Group 3 base oil isn’t bad but it isn’t a true full synthetic motor oil

Red Line Synthetic Oil. 5W30 Motor Oil

This may be true but the question is whether there’s $12 a quart difference. I think not.

 

[T4r.Chris]

Toyota Syn, and the TRD Oil Filter every time! I live in mild desert winters and hot summers. Never had an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thegame7]

Trying out Costco's 5W-30 this time around. I've heard good things!

 

[inscarguy]

Redline synthetic or Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w30 and toyota oil filters

 

[inscarguy]

Trying out Costco's 5W-30 this time around. I've heard good things!

Costco, walmart, amazon basics are all the same. They are all made by Warren Oil Co. Their additive packs are pretty much the same.