Write-Up: Mirror Disassembly Down to the Inner Guts PIC HEAVY

JustinB

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I hope this helps anyone that wants to dive into their mirror at any point. It is quite simple really, all in all only took about an hour to swap everything around (not including removing and reinstalling the assembly on the vehicle). Huge thanks to [MENTION=119029]NinjaOne[/MENTION] for being able to provide me with an OEM driver side mirror so I could actually do this.

These mirrors are not just one mysterious piece, which is why I didn’t want to fork over for brand new OEM replacements that may or may not vibrate excessively. You can find a mirror from any year 4th gen and cannibalize nearly anything and make it work. No shakes, shimmies, or anything like that which you may find in aftermarket parts. My example, 2006 SE Heated mirror original, took some guts from a 2004 SR5 Non-Heated.

I have plenty more pics so if you need any details regarding this or any other part of disassembling/reassembling a mirror just ask and I’m happy to provide.

Additionally, I’m open to suggestions on improving the write-up, ideas to add, etc. so feel free to comment.

So, I took this upon myself when I broke my mirror as seen here:


Upon further investigation I found out that it was only a piece of the mirror that mounts to the separate door mount that broke. Unfortunately this piece is part of an entire assembly/body within the mirror housing that holds the mirror motor (which holds the glass mirror). So I either had to be out a good chunk of money to buy a factory white heated mirror, or find a mirror of any color, heated or not, and swap some guts. Lucky for me [MENTION=119029]NinjaOne[/MENTION] is nearby and just installed heated mirrors, so he was able to provide me a mirror for this project (junkyards are empty of 4Runners around here, of any gen).

So here goes, mirror disassembly write-up:
(Warnings: I don’t know what most of these parts are called, so bear with my made-up/incorrect vocab and feel free to correct me and I can edit it later for clarification, also I am no English major and love to fade in and out of different tenses while going between instructing and just saying what I did.)



First, pop the tab off of the bottom of the mirror with a screwdriver to gain access to the mirror internal body screws and remove the screws with a T25 torx:




Next, I took the glass mirror off of the motor. This part scared me because I didn’t want to break the glass. Start by tilting the mirror all the way up so that you can look up between the glass and the inside of the mirror from the bottom.


***NOW SCROLL DOWN A COUPLE PHOTOS, look at the picture that has the deed done so you have an idea of what you are actually doing.***

Shove your hand in there and pop the mirror off. It takes a bit of force. I’ve done this multiple times now without breaking anything so I think it is reasonably resilient.

(bottom of mirror is at top of above picture)


Then slide the mirror out toward the bottom of the mirror body. It should easily slide out with just a bit of effort (it’s never been removed before and is supposed to sit sort of tight so it doesn’t vibrate, remember).

(bottom of mirror up and to the right, hence sliding glass 'down' out of mirror)

***LOOK HERE***

This is the mirror upside down (top of mirror body is facing me). You can see 2 tabs on either side of the vertical metal prong, those are what slide into the white mount on the mirror motor (top of mirror, bottom in this pic). Then on the white mount you can see at the bottom (top in this pic) 4 slits, 2 on each side. These are actually for the mirror glass to clip into. These are what you pop off first. You can sort of see the black hard plastic on the glass mirror that clip into those.

Now with the glass safe, I disassemble the rest. Start by removing the electrical tape on the mirror wire in two places, one of which may be holding a clip that goes in the door (depends on how you removed your mirror).



Then remove a screw so that the weather sealing piece can come off of the door mount.



Then peel back the weather seal, it is plenty pliable and will come off easy, no risk of breaking really.



You may have noticed by now that the mirror wire connector isn’t going to fit through the whole easily. Good thing it’s a two-piece connector. Remove the outer shell by prying back the securing clip, then shove (carefully not to damage the connector) the connector out with a screwdriver. (note: this is a crude method, but I just went for it, maybe you have better ways).


 
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The wire and connector should fit through now no problem, allowing you to remove the sealing piece, then the whole door mount, completely.


There is another screw (T25 again) to remove to loosen the internal body piece that mounts to the door mount.


Now pull off the metal piece and snake the mirror wire through it.



Then remove the screws holding the mirror internal body piece to the body. Qty 3 philips head screws, all around the edge and deep, don't bother with the raised screws on the motor yet.


Pull the whole thing out



TOP/LEFT 2006 Sport Edition heated (extra two wires coming out the top) vs BOTTOM/RIGHT: 2004 SR5 non-heated housing and bodies. All parts were still totally swappable despite the slight differences.




Here is what broke on my mirror, causing it to dang-a-lang all over the place while the glass, body, motor, heat, door mount, everything still worked. It’s the part that mounts to the metal via the 3 torx head screws at the beginning. Unfortunately as you can see now it’s all one big piece.


I just needed that internal piece so I kept my motor and everything. To do this I removed the screws holding the motor assembly. 3 screws, 2 within white mount (NOT the center one), 1 outside on bottom left corner.




Then started the process in reverse, placing the motor in the ‘new’ internal body piece, snaking it through down through the mount, placing the whole internal body piece in my white housing, snaking it through the white door mount, etc.



Bolted everything back up and it all works fantastically.
 
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Great writeup and very detailed. I need to replace my mirrors with the heated turn signal ones that I just bought and this was very helpful to see how the mirror faces come off.

Nice work!
 
Wire Harness - Heated?

Hi,

I know this is an old thread -- but seeking a little help. I managed to break the side Mirror on my 2006 Sport 4Runner. It's just the glass and I figured I could replace it myself. But now that I took a look at the glass, it seems that the wire leads are crimped on.

I bought a Burco mirror replacement that was supposed to fit. However it doesn't -- due to the wire terminals. Can Someone give me a little beta?
 
Hi,

I know this is an old thread -- but seeking a little help. I managed to break the side Mirror on my 2006 Sport 4Runner. It's just the glass and I figured I could replace it myself. But now that I took a look at the glass, it seems that the wire leads are crimped on.

I bought a Burco mirror replacement that was supposed to fit. However it doesn't -- due to the wire terminals. Can Someone give me a little beta?

Sam post a good photo of what you're saying is crimped on, it should have basic male blades on the mirror (which can be seen on the photo above in this topic) and female connectors on the wiring harness that just pulls apart.
 
Mirror Connectors

Sam post a good photo of what you're saying is crimped on, it should have basic male blades on the mirror (which can be seen on the photo above in this topic) and female connectors on the wiring harness that just pulls apart.

Here's a pic of my mirror. I still haven't found a good replacement part and just saw your message.
script>


Image is off my old iphone and not great. Sorry.


I got an aftermarket part and will attempt to just used the glass on it. Not too sure how to make it all fit yet. Might just fork over the cash to get the dealer to install. I've been driving with a cracked mirror for over a month and I'm over it!
 
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Here's some better pics. Looks like this connector comes apart somehow. But I don't know how.

script>


script>


Those connections look like a normal blade connector, a male blades attached with epoxy to the mirror and or heating pad and females attached to the wires that slide over the male blades, the female part should just slide off with some force, how much force is hard to say, just watch the male blade/s portion so you don't break it loose from the epoxy as you wiggle the female a bit while trying to slide it off, also be sure to only pull on the metal portion and not the wire and also apply a bit of pressure to the epoxy will help to not crack the epoxy loose.

Though unusual for most blade connectors it's possible that there could be a locking tab on it that has to be released while pulling them apart but I can't say if that's the case without seeing both side of the connection, from the side you do show it appears there's just a dimple that fits a hole on the blade to keep it from possibly coming loose from vibrations.
 
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[MENTION=149207]AuSeeker[/MENTION] thank you very much. I had kind of figured it should slide off.

I'll give it a whirl here soon.
 
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My mirror broke off today and I’m trying my hardest to fix it on my own (I’m starting with pretty minimal car knowledge in general, but trying to learn).

The mirror/body itself seems fine and it’s still attached by the wire. But the black plastic piece where the screws attach snapped.

I tried getting some longer screws and working those further into the broken post. It’s reattached but wobbly

Any advice?? :)
 
My mirror broke off today and I’m trying my hardest to fix it on my own (I’m starting with pretty minimal car knowledge in general, but trying to learn).

The mirror/body itself seems fine and it’s still attached by the wire. But the black plastic piece where the screws attach snapped.

I tried getting some longer screws and working those further into the broken post. It’s reattached but wobbly

Any advice?? :)

It sounds like this is exactly what happened to me to cause this thread, is that correct? If so, good idea on the longer screws, perhaps that will hold up as an easier fix for you. My only advice would be to do the same I did, find an OEM mirror used from a junkyard car or a friend and swap the internals around.

Good luck!
 

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