Wrong catalytic?

[Frost29]

Hello, recently I got my catalytic Converter changed in a regular "brakes & mufflers" shop. Obviously I did not get the original, I only paid $120 for it.
The problem was the front one, but they told me that it would be a good idea to replace the rear one too and have installed just one regular from them. I hesitated a little , but they kept telling me, that would not caused any problems.
When I picked it up as soon as I turned it up I noticed my "check engine light" was on as well as two more lights. I got out and told the mechanic, he put the scanner and told me it was a bad O2 sensor.
My concern now is, if it really is that or that had something to do with the fact that I am not using an original converter and if I get the sensor replaced, that light will turn off ?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions folks.

 

[Sig220]

If the cat is working right, a new O2 sensor should make the CEL go out.

Do a search though, some of the sensors do not fare well and give the puter problems.

 

[Frost29]

Thanks for your anwering! I will try changing the sensor.

 

[YotaZach85]

Did he reset the check engine light after putting the cats on? If not, reset the ECU(disconnect the battery or pull the EFI fuse for a couple of minutes) and drive it to see if the light comes back on, if it does come back on, take it somewhere else to have the code read for you and find out what code it is. After market cats are known for throwing a CEL and your sensor might not have anything wrong with it at all.

 

[brian2sun]

If you never got an 02 sensor code before, make the shop fix it. I would feel 99% sure it's the new cat if it's a new code.

 

[Frost29]

Did he reset the check engine light after putting the cats on? If not, reset the ECU(disconnect the battery or pull the EFI fuse for a couple of minutes) and drive it to see if the light comes back on, if it does come back on, take it somewhere else to have the code read for you and find out what code it is. After market cats are known for throwing a CEL and your sensor might not have anything wrong with it at all.

Shop did not do it, but it did it myself. I disconnected the battery for almost a day. And when I turned it back up, the light still came back on.By the way the code I got from Autozone was this P0420.

 

[TheDurk]

The problem was the front one, but they told me that it would be a good idea to replace the rear one too and have installed just one regular from them. I hesitated a little , but they kept telling me, that would not caused any problems.

Do I understand correctly that they took out both OEM cats from a two-cat system and replaced it with a SINGLE aftermarket cat costing $120? If so, and if you EVER get that CEL to go out and stay out, please post make and model of said cat. I don't think there is any way, other than sim, to go from 2 cats to one and keep that CEL off. If there is, I want to know more.

If I did understand that correctly, your shop violated Federal law and you were misled if they said your ECU would accept that setup.

I'd also like to know how they decided the front cat was the bad one. That takes some pretty sophisticated exhaust gas analyzers and I doubt your B&M shop is equipped for it--especially given the results. The on-board sensors are useless for any such test as they are before and after BOTH cats.

 

[jsmarine]

Shop did not do it, but it did it myself. I disconnected the battery for almost a day. And when I turned it back up, the light still came back on.By the way the code I got from Autozone was this P0420.

I can tell you from experance that it is probably the cat, it is not heavy duty enough for your Toyota. I just wanted to get that out now before you start throwing more money at this proplem by replacing O2 sensors or the Air/Fuel ratio sensor or anything else in the emisions system. When it comes to cats, or anything with the emissions systems, especially on California emissions vehicles likes yours, the ONLY option is OEM. I know you have a Cali emisions vehicle because you have two cats, and I can probably guess you have a 2000 model 4runner too!

OEM cats will probably run you $1000 - $2000......yeah I know what you are thinking on that one!!! The only other option is a URD simulator, which is what I have that will keep the light off. But just because the light is off doesnt mean you will pass emisions testing (if Required) for your state, you are basically fooling the ECU into thinking everything is ok when you run the URD sim.

 

[TheDurk]

I know you have a Cali emisions vehicle because you have two cats, and I can probably guess you have a 2000 model 4runner too!

He could have a '99 or '00 Cali., or any 2001+ 50-state model. The Cali. two-cat system went national in 2001.

 

[jsmarine]

He could have a '99 or '00 Cali., or any 2001+ 50-state model. The Cali. two-cat system went national in 2001.

My bad, I didnt know that, I thought the two cat system was only for 1999 and 2000 models for Cali emisions, and one cat for the 49 state legal models. I thought in 2001 they went to 50 state legal but only one cat on all 4runners.

 

[Frost29]

My bad, I didnt know that, I thought the two cat system was only for 1999 and 2000 models for Cali emisions, and one cat for the 49 state legal models. I thought in 2001 they went to 50 state legal but only one cat on all 4runners.

Hi, what I have is a 2001 runner and I live in Illinois. I know I took an emission test two years ago, so that means that I would have probably take the next one in 2001. I guess I will have to take it in to the dealership for an estimate. :cry2:$$$$$