XenonDepot
New member
Here is a great install guide form a 2017 4Runner which should be about the same as a 2013:
2017 Toyota 4Runner LED Kit review | 2017 Toyota 4Runner LED kit Install Guide
Danny
Xtreme LED Pro Kit Review - 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner
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Here is a great install guide form a 2017 4Runner which should be about the same as a 2013:
2017 Toyota 4Runner LED Kit review | 2017 Toyota 4Runner LED kit Install Guide
Danny
XenonDepot
New member
You won't need the canbus for the low beams but to answer your question, the canbus option includes our PWM anti-flicker module which is designed to prevent flickering, error codes and also allow DRL lights to work.
Danny
Perfect, thanks Danny.
Srt4runner
New member
I've had my 4runner for almost a year and have been trying to figure out what I want to upgrade the headlights with. Yeah they are not the greatest in output, but they are still better than my 3rd gen.
I've done a ton of research on here and have found a few posts of people purchasing the HID kit than later removing it due to getting flashing by oncoming motorists quite a bit due to the brightness. Although this could be from improperly aimed headlights as well. This LED kit may be a great alternative.
Can anyone comment on the reliability difference between the LED kit and the HID kit? I understand the HID kit is brighter, however I know a few people that have had problems with the ballasts in HID kits (they were morimoto brand) going bad. I see the LED kit comes with an "LED driver" and the bulb life is rated for 50,000 hours. The HID kit bulb is rated for ~3,000 hours. I guess I could keep a spare ballast and bulb if I decide to go with the HID kit.
I've also heard that LED bulbs run cooler and are more prone to accumulating snow/ice on the headlight since they won't melt it off.
thanks in advance
I've done a ton of research on here and have found a few posts of people purchasing the HID kit than later removing it due to getting flashing by oncoming motorists quite a bit due to the brightness. Although this could be from improperly aimed headlights as well. This LED kit may be a great alternative.
Can anyone comment on the reliability difference between the LED kit and the HID kit? I understand the HID kit is brighter, however I know a few people that have had problems with the ballasts in HID kits (they were morimoto brand) going bad. I see the LED kit comes with an "LED driver" and the bulb life is rated for 50,000 hours. The HID kit bulb is rated for ~3,000 hours. I guess I could keep a spare ballast and bulb if I decide to go with the HID kit.
I've also heard that LED bulbs run cooler and are more prone to accumulating snow/ice on the headlight since they won't melt it off.
thanks in advance
XenonDepot
New member
This is really more due to the fact that LED bulbs are not pushing any of the heat they generate Forward, and must send it all Backwards instead. Halogens and HIDs shine light in all directions and some of that disperses into the surrounding area as heat.
Ultimately, both HIDs and LEDs draw less power than stock halogens of comparable fitment, so if snow/ice accumulation on the headlight lenses is a common issue where you live, you are likely to find that sort of problem with both types.
~Robert
ForgetYourMap
New member
Sorry, I may have missed this earlier. Why do you not need the canbus option that includes the PWM anti-flicker module for the low beams?
Will it not flicker?
Basically, I am ready to order the H11 XTREME LED PROs for my low beam on a 2016 Trial.
Also, If I want yellow fog lights are these a good option? YELLOW PHILIPS H11 LED FOG BULB
transistor
New member
Is it ok if the wires inside the compartment are touching the heat sink fins? How hot do they get?
Do the low beams require canbus as well?
I had the same concerns with the potential for HID glare off the road, I suppose adjustment tweaks are the key for sure but I didn't want to get involved with that and also the drilling of the dust caps but I'm sure if the grommet is properly installed there is no concerns. Regardless - did my research too and went with the SL1 LED Bulbs from Diode Dynamics ( only because I already have the DD switchbacks for signals ).
Recently installed - They matched perfectly of course (5600K I think) and for sure they seem to have a sharper pattern and cut off than the oem halogens did sitting in the projector lens. The install was no problem, the bulbs clicked in just fine with a push and all tucked in nicely within the cavity. Check them out as an option I am very impressed with them.
I replaced my highs with the Phillips halogen option from XD. Very pleased with their performance too.
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XenonDepot
New member
[MENTION=95446]ForgetYourMap[/MENTION] - The 4runner uses a stable 12V signal for the low beams. The CANbus module is needed if the signal from the car's harness is not stable (DRL).
[MENTION=166725]transistor[/MENTION] - Heat sink fins get warm, as they're doing their job shedding heat off the LED emitters. You don't have to worry about wires touching them though.
[MENTION=144992]Cde1218[/MENTION] - No, not needed.
Just make sure that when you install the H11 Xtreme LED pro kit in the low beams that the diodes are facing 3 & 9 o'clock. You twist the H11 bulb into place, and in some cases the diodes don't end up perfectly aligned at 3 & 9. The Xtreme LED PRO bulb is clockable, so that you can optimize the diode placement once you twist the bulb into place. It's not the greatest picture, but take a look at the difference between having the diodes at 3 & 9 vs 12 & 6:
Steve
[MENTION=166725]transistor[/MENTION] - Heat sink fins get warm, as they're doing their job shedding heat off the LED emitters. You don't have to worry about wires touching them though.
[MENTION=144992]Cde1218[/MENTION] - No, not needed.
Just make sure that when you install the H11 Xtreme LED pro kit in the low beams that the diodes are facing 3 & 9 o'clock. You twist the H11 bulb into place, and in some cases the diodes don't end up perfectly aligned at 3 & 9. The Xtreme LED PRO bulb is clockable, so that you can optimize the diode placement once you twist the bulb into place. It's not the greatest picture, but take a look at the difference between having the diodes at 3 & 9 vs 12 & 6:
Steve
dukesilver
New member
Do you have a link for the SL1?
delaWeb
New member
[MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] just got my kit and have a question. How am I supposed to spread the fins while having to put back the dust cap? I'd have to pretty much point them all downward for it to fit. I saw the installation details on the site but it lacked pictures which could have beneficial.
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Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Angelo
Member
So as you know the more exposure / air / space you have between each individual heat sink leaf the better. The space is really tight but fortunately the aluminum XD used for these is pretty sturdy stuff, and the pattern doesn't have to stay in one plane. Without torquing your bends too hard, attempt to "fan" the leaves as you would a deck of cards within the cavity space, and see if that gets you a better result.
XenonDepot
New member
Take a look at this great install guide to better answer your question:
2017 Toyota 4Runner LED Kit review | 2017 Toyota 4Runner LED kit Install Guide
Danny
XenonDepot
New member
[MENTION=165249]delaWeb[/MENTION]: Check this video out of how one customer fanned them out in an enclosed headlight housing:
https://www.facebook.com/xenondepot/videos/868522989990781/
Or here are some pics:
[MENTION=37943]Seatown[/MENTION] - Sweet! Please post up some feedback once you get them installed.
https://www.facebook.com/xenondepot/videos/868522989990781/
Or here are some pics:
[MENTION=37943]Seatown[/MENTION] - Sweet! Please post up some feedback once you get them installed.
XenonDepot
New member
[MENTION=165249]delaWeb[/MENTION] - The alternative would be to have a fan style active cooling. Fans are noisy, cause potential EMI interference, and can fail (moving parts)...
XenonDepot
New member
[MENTION=37943]Seatown[/MENTION]:
Thank you for the feedback, and I'm sorry to hear that you are experiencing a problem.
(1) 99.9% the issue you are experiencing is related to polarity as the drivers are polarity sensitive. I've seen it happen where the plug on the OE wiring is wired differently between sides as the stock halogen bulb is not polarity sensitive. Do you have a volt meter by chance? If not, give us a call, @ 1-877-522-2701 and we'll help get this sorted out for you.
(2) Just a tip - When you install the kit, make sure that the diodes are facing 3 and 9 o'clock. Our bulbs are clockable, so you can adjust the bulb head to ensure the diodes are facing left and right for the best light output -- it makes a big difference.
Not the greatest picture, but you can see how much better the hotspot is on the right side with the diodes clocked properly:
Steve
Thank you for the feedback, and I'm sorry to hear that you are experiencing a problem.
(1) 99.9% the issue you are experiencing is related to polarity as the drivers are polarity sensitive. I've seen it happen where the plug on the OE wiring is wired differently between sides as the stock halogen bulb is not polarity sensitive. Do you have a volt meter by chance? If not, give us a call, @ 1-877-522-2701 and we'll help get this sorted out for you.
(2) Just a tip - When you install the kit, make sure that the diodes are facing 3 and 9 o'clock. Our bulbs are clockable, so you can adjust the bulb head to ensure the diodes are facing left and right for the best light output -- it makes a big difference.
Not the greatest picture, but you can see how much better the hotspot is on the right side with the diodes clocked properly:
Steve
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