Your thoughts on this frame

[Sandeman]

Hi there 4th gen-ers! Not a noob to Toyota, owned a few Tacos, 1st Gen, Tundras, and Turd Gen Taco as of currently and hopefully getting into a 4th Gen soon! I’ve dealt with 1st Gen Tacoma frames and know what to look for regarding them but wondering if you guys can provide guidance as to where the troublesome spots are on the 4th gens

Wondering on what you guys think about this frame, they’re pretty near impossible to come by in the NE with a rustless frame.

122k, V8 Limited, 03, asking is $9k

one of the more cleaner looking frames to say the least I’ve come by
Thanks guy


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[5thToy]

That looks decent for an 03 from your neck of the woods. Low mileage, probably garaged for the most part.

 

[Jdevtac]

The pics and specs you have are near exact to the 2004 I bought. I’d pass. You are bound to find a hole somewhere. I didn’t find a hole in mine at initial inspection but it was there when I was rust treating a few weeks later.

If you are set on it, some things I learned:
Check those gas tank straps, my bet is the rear one has turned to dust.

Also check that the spare tire can actually be lowered and the hoist isn’t seized.

Look inside every hole of the frame. These things rust on the inside pretty bad depending on your location.

Look at the top of the front frame rail, just rearward if the front passenger tire. The AC drip tube drips water right on it and causes extra rust.

Whack all around the rear lower trailing arm mounts. This area rusts not only on 4th gens but also 3rd gens.

Lastly I’d check all the brake lines, and then the rear frame rails at the rear bumper. These rust out for whatever reason too.

The front auxiliary cross member where the front skid attaches to is likely toast from your photos.

 

[CookieRoe]

Pfft, you're fine. Looks like mine and mine is solid. The front cross member (radiator) is a little crusty, but overall my frame is solid. Having lived it's entire life in PA. Still, give it a good once-over.

Good luck!

 

[Sandeman]

The pics and specs you have are near exact to the 2004 I bought. I’d pass. You are bound to find a hole somewhere. I didn’t find a hole in mine at initial inspection but it was there when I was rust treating a few weeks later.



If you are set on it, some things I learned:

Check those gas tank straps, my bet is the rear one has turned to dust.



Also check that the spare tire can actually be lowered and the hoist isn’t seized.



Look inside every hole of the frame. These things rust on the inside pretty bad depending on your location.



Look at the top of the front frame rail, just rearward if the front passenger tire. The AC drip tube drips water right on it and causes extra rust.



Whack all around the rear lower trailing arm mounts. This area rusts not only on 4th gens but also 3rd gens.



Lastly I’d check all the brake lines, and then the rear frame rails at the rear bumper. These rust out for whatever reason too.



The front auxiliary cross member where the front skid attaches to is likely toast from your photos.

You just covered all my basis- I did hear about the poor drains in the frame when water gets in there and doesn’t have anywhere to go.

What’s the best way to get a look into the inside of the frame from your experience?


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[Sandeman]

Pfft, you're fine. Looks like mine and mine is solid. The front cross member (radiator) is a little crusty, but overall my frame is solid. Having lived it's entire life in PA. Still, give it a good once-over.



Good luck!

Thanks man, price seems to be right but if I see some trouble some spots def have to haggle this one down a few


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[Sandeman]

That looks decent for an 03 from your neck of the woods. Low mileage, probably garaged for the most part.

I hope so too, one of the better ones I’ve seen


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[4v power]

Looks ok the last pic has one area that you should check better. Cannot tell from the photo. The general look is normal.

 

[AuSeeker]

[MENTION=411878]Sandeman[/MENTION], others have covered what to look at concerning the rust..but you didn't say if it's a 2wd or a 4wd, either way I think $9000 is too high for a 2003 and especially so if it's a 2wd, use any rust you see and it's age to get that price as low as you can.

Also in case you're not aware, if it's 4wd be sure to run the 4wd system through all of it's functions, the transfercase actuator has a tendency to seize up if not used regularly and is expensive to repair/replace.

 

[MikeinNH67]

Looks decent from what I can see. My 03 had some perforation on one of the rear control arm attachment points which was an easy fix. No other perforation from what I can see. Currently I have a ratchet strap holding up the rear of my fuel tank as the strap corroded. Lucky me trying to remove the strap outer frame bolt removed the whole mount point so more welding there. I've also noticed a few 4runners in the area with the rust coming through the hatch door from the inside.

9k for a 16 year old vehicle though, I find that hard to swallow.

 

[Sandeman]

[MENTION=411878]Sandeman[/MENTION], others have covered what to look at concerning the rust..but you didn't say if it's a 2wd or a 4wd, either way I think $9000 is too high for a 2003 and especially so if it's a 2wd, use any rust you see and it's age to get that price as low as you can.



Also in case you're not aware, if it's 4wd be sure to run the 4wd system through all of it's functions, the transfercase actuator has a tendency to seize up if not used regularly and is expensive to repair/replace.

Sorry it’s 4wd, haven’t seen any 2wd with a v8 from my search. Will do!


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[Sandeman]

Looks decent from what I can see. My 03 had some perforation on one of the rear control arm attachment points which was an easy fix. No other perforation from what I can see. Currently I have a ratchet strap holding up the rear of my fuel tank as the strap corroded. Lucky me trying to remove the strap outer frame bolt removed the whole mount point so more welding there. I've also noticed a few 4runners in the area with the rust coming through the hatch door from the inside.



9k for a 16 year old vehicle though, I find that hard to swallow.

I’m thinking coming in at 5-6k or I’ll walk away, regardless. I’m sure since it’s a Lexus dealer they’re looking for a top dollar sale


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[Jdevtac]

You just covered all my basis- I did hear about the poor drains in the frame when water gets in there and doesn’t have anywhere to go.

What’s the best way to get a look into the inside of the frame from your experience?


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You can get a cheapo Boroscope on amazon. Otherwise just having a look inside with your eye or phone camera. Mainly look at the bottom of the frame. The sides are usually fine since water doesn’t pool. The top may have some rust as the welds run along the frame there.

 

[DZNUTS]

To address a previous post, all v8 4Runners are permanent 4wd (no actuator issue)

As for that frame, buy that truck before someone else steals it!! The lower rad support may need some love but that’s about it. And at $9k asking price, pay them $8500 cash and roll with it


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[Jdevtac]

Yeah the front auxiliary support as Toyota calls it can be purchased and welded in. If that’s the only thing that’s boo on the frame structurally then it’s at least fixable.

 

[AuSeeker]

To address a previous post, all v8 4Runners are permanent 4wd (no actuator issue)

As for that frame, buy that truck before someone else steals it!! The lower rad support may need some love but that’s about it. And at $9k asking price, pay them $8500 cash and roll with it


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Doesn't the V8 have the actuator for Hi and LO range and also CDL and can seize if not used regularly??

From what I have read it can seize on the V8 as well, please correct me if I'm wrong and I would like to read where you got the info that this isn't an issue on the V8.

 

[P_nlsn]

It looks better than some of the northern 4runners I've looked at. I would just examine it carefully for holes in the wheel wells, and then check the shock and strut mounts, etc. Places where things mount to the frame is where you want to check

 

[hankd]

To address a previous post, all v8 4Runners are permanent 4wd (no actuator issue)
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the 4wd v8 4runners are full time 4wd, however toyota also made a 2wd v8 4runner throughout 4th gen production.

and with the 4wd v8 4runners, it's advised to engage the center differential lock and 4lo once in a while so they don't seize.

wish the frame on my v8 4x4 was that clean lol.

 

[hinmo24t]

looks like the good one i found after looking at 4 others in MA/RI. id say it looks pretty clean! nice find