Zach's '97 Salsa Red Maintenance/Build

zachary.mikel

New member
Hello 4Runner friends! I figured I should start a build thread to keep track of my maintenance and mods.

Backstory
Purchased January 2017 for my wife to drive around town. We had a horrible winter in Idaho, with snowfall reaching almost 3 feet in the city during some points. The only cars we owned were her Protege5 and my BMW 330i at the time.



Specs on the truck at the time of purchase:

1997 SR5, Salsa Red / Tan Interior
212k on the clock
Auto
P.O. swapped Limited edition e-locker rear end, 4.30 gears

I'll detail what I've done so far in the next post and keep this one as a placeholder for future updates!
 
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Here's what I've done to this thing so far:

Front Differential
We got an excellent deal on the 4Runner, and it soon became apparent why. The front differential was almost completely seized when 4WD was engaged. This explains the bald front tires I suppose? The previous owner(s) had installed a factory e-locker rear end in it, putting the gear ratio in the rear at 4.30. I never had a chance to verify, but I'm certain that the front differential was probably never swapped to match the rear. I picked up a used front differential with 4.30 gears out of a limited 4Runner and swapped it out shortly after purchasing. Look at how freaking burned the old diff is!! It's like there was zero oil in it!



Passenger wheel bearing/seals
After the front differential was replaced, it became apparent that the passenger rear axle wheel bearing was destroyed. There was clunking and grinding coming from the axle. After I pulled the brakes off, I found this lovely note scribbled on the rear axle hub. Remember how I said that I had figured out the rear's gear ratio was 4.30, so that's the front diff ratio that I ordered and installed? I about had a heart attack when I saw this:



I did yet another spin test to be sure I hadn't screwed up. The front and rear aren't mismatched! The junkyard just mislabeled the rear axle. Lol.

Shameless plug for my old ZHP that I will always miss dearly...



Tacoma front bumper
The truck was in a minor front-end accident before we bought it, causing the front bumper and core support to bend inward. We replaced the front bumper with my buddy's old Tacoma bumper that he wasn't using. It doesn't fit perfectly, but you can't beat free-ninety-nine!



Klever AT's
After getting basic driveability issues taken care of, I decided to put some shorter Kenda Klever 265/70/17 A/T's on. My wife and I were still both poor starving college students at the time and it didn't make sense to put another set of 33's on it... yet.



Steering Rack
After installing the tires, Point S told us that the steering rack was shot and they weren't able to do an alignment. I promptly ordered a remanufactured rack with inner/outer tie rod ends from Amazon and was really pleased with them. The truck aligned just fine after that.



Muffler
Replaced the old buzzy muffler at a local exhaust shop.



Cosmetics
We touched up the P.O.'s attempt to do a bed-liner section on the lower part of the doors. Prep work is key, people!



Rear hatch relay
The rear hatch on this truck was definitely replaced before we had it. The rear window, wiper, and defroster didn't work. When I tore the rear door apart, I found that a 99+ control box was in it, and the grounding plug for all the wires was missing! After some research, I found that I needed an older-style window relay/computer for my model of Runner. I ordered one from eBay and found a grounding plug from a junkyard. All rear window functionality was restored!



Knock Sensors and Valve Cover Gaskets
We got a check engine light for bad knock sensors. Ordered the OEM replacements from Toyota, got some Fel-Pro valve cover and intake gaskets, and swapped everything out.



Timing Belt
In an effort to keep ahead on maintenance, I went ahead and replaced the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and pulleys. We had no idea if this had been done by the previous owner, so it was good to get this out of the way.



A/C System
During the timing belt job, I discovered that the A/C pulley has been flopping around. This past weekend I was finally able to replace the compressor, condenser, drier, evaporator core, and expansion valve. I had a local shop do the initial evacuation/reclamation of refrigerant (there were no leaks, just a noisy compressor.) I recharged the system myself. Vacuum pumps are life-savers!





I used this as an opportunity to try and straighten out the core support. I rented a slide hammer from the parts store and was able to pull the core support slightly. The frame crossbar is still pretty messed up. I think I'll end up having a pro body shop address this in the future.





There is still a lot on my list of maintenance to catch up on. I just graduated from school this May, and this truck has been in fairly rough shape since we've owned it.

Maintenance:
- T-Case seals
- Rear main seal
- Oil pan gasket
- Lower ball joints and other suspension pieces
- Vacuum pump ticking noise. Need to diagnose.
- Lower core support needs replacement
- Rear e-locker won't engage sometimes. Need to diagnose.

Mod plans:
- Retrofit headlights with projectors and some ricey LED's
- OME springs
- Bilstien shocks
- Less fugly 16" wheels
- 33" BFG A/T's
- New carpet
- Leather seats from a Limited 4Runner
- Tube/plate front bumper
- Toyota FJ-style grill
- Aftermarket roof rack of some sort w/some good LED lights
- Replace the fighter-jet style e-locker switch with something a little more OEM looking
 
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Great start, and a sweet color. Interested to see how the rear wheel bearing goes for you. Something that I'm not looking forward to whenever I have to cross that bridge.
 
buddy nice looking 4runner, love that color!

it looks like you have done quite a bit of overhaul/repair/maintenance to it and seems to be coming along nicely.

you may want to add OEM Lower Ball Joints to your list, its a big item that, if it fails, will ruin your day/week/month and damage other items as a result. they can be expensive, but better safe than sorry.

cant wait to see the progress!
 
buddy nice looking 4runner, love that color!

it looks like you have done quite a bit of overhaul/repair/maintenance to it and seems to be coming along nicely.

you may want to add OEM Lower Ball Joints to your list, its a big item that, if it fails, will ruin your day/week/month and damage other items as a result. they can be expensive, but better safe than sorry.

cant wait to see the progress!
Thanks man! I have read up on ball joints a little. I checked mine about a month ago with the front end jacked up and used a pry bar and each side. There seemed to be little to no play, so I haven't addressed them yet, but I agree with you. Better safe than sorry for sure, I'll be adding that to my list!
Great start, and a sweet color. Interested to see how the rear wheel bearing goes for you. Something that I'm not looking forward to whenever I have to cross that bridge.
Thank you! The passenger side wasn't too bad, but all I did was pull it and head to the shop to let them finish the job. I'm considering doing it myself this time, so I'll be sure to post about it when it happens.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Hi all,

I've suspected for awhile that my rear driver wheel bearing is on its way out. I can hear a clunking noise coming from that corner of the car while driving at about 40mph. I finally took the wheel and hub off last night to remove the axle.

I decided to put the truck up in the air and spin the axle again. The tire has a slight wobble to it. I can definitely hear with my stethoscope that the clunking noise is coming from the wheel bearing area at the axle housing.

My question is this: looking at the video below, do you think this is enough bend to warrant replacing with a new axle shaft? If I do replace, I'll probably upgrade to the Yukon cut-to-fit shafts that support ABS.

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULjD4eg3G84
 
can probably go to the junk yard and pick up and axle cheap. then buy new bearing and seal and have it pressed in...just a thought.
 
can probably go to the junk yard and pick up and axle cheap. then buy new bearing and seal and have it pressed in...just a thought.
I thought that as well, but I've had a couple of friends that have gotten bent axle flanges from junk yards... apparently it can be really common if they're in a wreck. I'll do some checking around. I figured with how cheap the chromoly ones are it'd be a good upgrade to do.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Update: I found that the rear axle wasn't bent. After throwing wheels from different corners on the driver's rear corner, I saw the tires spinning very straight. I think I have a bent wheel. Here is a video of another wheel on the same corner from the previous post.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQbPEIX4BjI

In the spirit of saving time, I had my local machine shop remove and reinstall the wheel bearing, retaining clips, and oil seal. I was pleasantly surprised as they only charged me $80! They were thankful that I removed the axle and brought it to them, that brought down the price considerably.



I installed a new set of brake shoes on both rear hubs and speed bleeders on all 4 corners while I was at it. Speed bleeders are incredible! I will never not have these on a car again. After flushing all the old brake fluid out and adjusting the rear brakes properly, this thing stops on a dime!
 
oof, it's been a minute!

I'm in the process of stopping a transfer case seal leak. Can't seem to figure out what the issue is. Here is where the leak is appearing:

44699243890_c651f0d240_b.jpg

(please ignore the greasy mess by the driveshaft, it's residual from greasing u-joints)

I've replaced the front output shaft seal two times. Once with an O'Reilly's seal, the second with an OEM Toyota seal (with the longer flange.)

Each time I replace the seal, I rinse off the transfer case with brake cleaner. It appears to stay dry for about 8-10 miles. After that, the leak reappears in the red area I circled in the picture above.

I have checked the top of the transfer case for leaks coming from the oil deflector, and it's totally dry up there. Am I just pressing in the seal wrong? Has anyone else ran into this issue? Thanks in advance, guys.
 
TL;DR, my transfer case is cracked. What the hell.

I thought that my companion flange's seal surface could be damaged. It looked like there was some rust growing on it and that was causing it to leak intermittently.

Got a different one from a junk yard. Old one (left), new one (right)
46484145622_a817fffb4d_b.jpg

46484146212_8b16d25f86_b.jpg


Went to install it, and set my light underneath the truck and see THIS BS!
46536203131_bab0a50a68_b.jpg


My damn transfer case has a HUGE crack in it. I have zero clue how it got there. This is most certainly why it's been leaking this whole time.

I threw some JB weld on top of it in hopes that it'll slow the leak down. I'm going through car-part.com right now trying to source a new transfer case. This is so annoying. Sometimes I wonder if this POS is worth the trouble :) /rant
32662826308_0c9f59183b_b.jpg
 
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TL;DR, my transfer case is cracked. What the hell.

I thought that my companion flange's seal surface could be damaged. It looked like there was some rust growing on it and that was causing it to leak intermittently.

that sucks.

somebody whacked that poor thing on a rock pretty hard. they are cheap and plentiful at the junk yards and ebay. also not hard to swap them out.
 

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