Zaino and Porter-Cable?

CopperX

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I read a lot about using Porter-Cable with Griot's products. How about using PC with Zaino? Can anybody comment on that?
 
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dcampen said:
You could use a PC to apply Zaino but the stuff is so easy to apply that I really see no point to doing so.

This very question was discussed a few years ago on another car board. If I remember correctly someone finally asked Sal Zaino about this. His response was that it would waste a lot of product to get the pad to the point you could apply the Zaino. He recommended against it.

Of course, you could always ask him again! I know I've always gotten answers from him by phone or email.

I don't see any problem using one for removing cured Zaino.
 
You're probably right. I don't own a PC; I do it all by hand!

BTW, the Porter Cable is on sale at Lowe's for $79 through 12/21

here

It's the sander not the polisher though; I'm not sure of the differences other than the backing plate.
 
Apply it thin with a terry cloth/foam pad. I use less than 1.5 ounce for my 4Runner, other people would use only 1/2 that amount. If you put it on too thick then it will tend to streak as you buff it off resulting in extra work.
 
dcampen said:
Apply it thin with a terry cloth/foam pad. I use less than 1.5 ounce for my 4Runner, other people would use only 1/2 that amount. If you put it on too thick then it will tend to streak as you buff it off resulting in extra work.

It will also streak if it is not completely cured (which takes longer if you put it on too thick).

I'm not trying to argue, just adding my experiences. :)
 
It will also streak if it is not completely cured (which takes longer if you put it on too thick).
Agreed. I use it with ZFX which makes it cure faster. The new Z-2 PRO is supposed to cure faster than the old formulation but ZFX is still recommended. Also, after buffing off the Z-2, buffing with Z-6 enhances the gloss even more.
 
dcampen said:
Agreed. I use it with ZFX which makes it cure faster. The new Z-2 PRO is supposed to cure faster than the old formulation but ZFX is still recommended. Also, after buffing off the Z-2, buffing with Z-6 enhances the gloss even more.

I've yet to try any of the newfangled ZFX; I'm an old time Zaino freak! :cool:

The last time I put a coat on the BMW, something strange happened - the Zaino cured REAL hard and took lots of effort to remove. This was way more effort than I've ever had to use on any car with Zaino and I can't imagine what happened.

The only thing I did differently was to wet the applicator with Z-6 (I usually use water). Next time for sure I'm only using water and if it happens again, I'm gonna call Zaino.
 
I like using the ZFX when I want to put down an initial 2 to 3 coats of Z2 or Z5 for a base. Then, I go to single coats of Z when needed. After a couple/few single coats of Z, I like to throw in an ocassional coat of Z1 to solidify the bonding.
 
A comment about power buffing: Power Buffing came from the old days of enamal paint
that would oxidize and loose its shine. Using a abrasive compound brought back the shine
at the expense of removing some of the paint.

Today, the paints are entirely different in that they rely on the clear coat to provide the shine.
The clear coat is about 1/2 the thickness of the paint so it is fragile and won't take abrasive
buffing without the danger of going through the clear coat.

The power buffer is heavy and the pad is also, so too much pressure can be applied very easily.
This will damage the clear coat. The reason shops use a power buffer is that it is fast, not good just fast.

Save your paint and use the least abrasive cleaner as possible and only apply it by hand.

Cliff s
 
Random Orbital vs Rotary

A comment about power buffing: Power Buffing came from the old days

...

Save your paint and use the least abrasive cleaner as possible and only apply it by hand.

A Porter-Cable buffer is a random orbital device, different from the rotary buffers you are talking about. It is very much harder for an inexperienced user to do damage with a P-C than with the old style rotary polishers. Telling someone to polish by hand is like telling a wood carver to only use dull knives. True, if there are no scratches to be removed, hand polishing will work; but if you need to remove swirl marks then hand polishing is just not going to do the job.

And professionals still use the rotary polishers to accomplish things that would be impossible to acheive any other way.
 
Only recently have people discovered what the detailers can do and how nice
they can make your vehicle look.

Most of the work the Professionals do is for car dealers to prep the cars for sale.
They are paid to make the dogs look nice, so they use some aggressive methods.
The power buffing is done only once.

The individual who washes and waxes his vehicle regularly and then buffs it with
a power buffer, will buff the vehicle many times. This is where the finish wear comes from.
The random orbital buffers will still cause the wear in the high spots and with too much
pressure you can burn the finish. A dirty bonnet will make a mess of the finish.
Of course any dirty cloth or towel applied by hand will do the same thing.

Why treat the whole vehicle when only a few spots are necessary.
This is the argument for hand buffing.

Cliff s
 

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