4th & 5th Gen Upper Control Arm UCA Install - Write Up

JBA Ball Joint Upper Control Arm UCA Install - Write Up




I hope this is helpful. So many have done nice write ups before. I didn't see any detailed UCA install threads anywhere and would like to contribute to the site.





Living in the rust belt, there are basically two choices for aftermarket Upper Control Arms in 2017:

JBA​

I pulled the trigger on JBA HIGH CASTER UCAs because they are cheaper than Camburg's ($449 vs $599), and have a bolt on rebuildable ball joint.




Uniball UCAs are extremely popular, but there are countless threads describing squeaking and rusting of all brands of uniball UCAs if you live in a salty environment. They are more expensive, but also have a higher bling factor. Also, you have to replace both hardware and uniballs occasionally/routinely, and the proprietary parts can get expensive.

If I lived in a less extreme area, I would consider the beautiful UCAs from Icon, Camburg, Total Chaos, or many others uniballs. But I just don't want to screw with it.

I didn't want to take a chance on Light Racing/SPC because of all the failures and redesigns.

I decided against eBay UCAs because I wanted to support a product that is Made in the USA and also because of the shady dealings of the main seller (she has multiple eBay accounts under multiple names, and offers no aftermarket support. Her actual name and telephone number is in post #45 here: Post #45 Ebay Uniball UCA Warning With Pics).

There are both Camburg uniball and Camburg balljoint knockoffs as well as others for sale on eBay. YMMV. Some have had great success.

Check out this thread for the reason why I put up $120 extra bucks for a name brand that is well respected: Ebay Uniball UCA Warning With Pics

Long story short: failure due to cheap hardware; someone could have been killed.








This video of a Total Chaos UCA install on a Tacoma is an excellent reference:



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Another good UCA Video:

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Here are JBA's instructions:

Jeepin By Al Tacoma/FJ/4runner Install Instructions





Tools Used:

19mm Wrench
19mm Wrench
17mm Wrench
10mm Wrench
Large Crescent Wrench
10mm Socket
Socket Wrench (12V Miluaukee Impact socket, optional)
Torque Wrench up to 170 Ft-lbs
Breaker Bar
Metric Allen Key 6mm
Kroil (what I used), P B B'laster, or other thread penetrating lubricant, etc.
Jack Stands (2)
Floor Jack
Wheel Chock
Needle Nose Pliers or Lineman Dikes
Balpeen Hammer
Vice Grips
Screwdriver or Clip Removal Tool


Starting about a week ahead of time, spray Kroil or some other penetrating fluid on all of the nuts/bolts you will be removing during this process. Your life will be much easier because of this.



1. Place vehicle in PARK, and chock the back wheels. Loosen lug nuts with vehicle on the ground.

2. Jack up your 4runner, place jack stands under the frame rails. Remove lug nuts and wheel.

3. Use screwdriver or clip remover to free your splash guards.



4. Place a jack under the Lower Control Arm (LCA) to give support to the steering knuckle.



5. Using Pliers, remove the Cotter Pin from the factory ball joint stud.



6. Using a 19mm wrench, loosen the UCA ball joint stud nut, but don't remove it completely.

Then strike the knuckle in this exact spot really hard to release the ball joint stud from the knuckle. There is a flat area made for this. Don't be afraid to really lay into it. It took a bunch of heavy hits to release mine.




7. Remove the nut and release the knuckle from the UCA.



8. Using a 17 mm socket to loosen the nut securing the front stabilizer link assembly that connects the stabilizer bar to the knuckle (or use a 6mm Hex key and 17mm wrench if the link spins with the nut).







9. ***Be careful not to stretch the ABS wire or brake line here*** Remove the knuckle from the UCA ball joint stud. Using a bungee cord, secure the knuckle in firmly in place.



10. Using 2 19mm wrenches, loosen the UCA through bolt.



10. Using Vice Grips, bend the inner fender of the wheel well slightly to allow the UCA through bolt to be removed.



11. On Driver's side, use a 10mm socket to:

Remove the bracket attaching the main wire loom to the frame, and then loosen the harness that holds the battery in place. Remove the Negative terminal first, then the Positive terminal. Then remove the battery and battery tray. This will allow the UCA bolt to be removed.







12. Using Pliers, open the 2 metal clips from the ABS Speed Sensor Wire, and release the Wire from the ABS wire bracket. Then, using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt securing the ABS wire bracket in place.





13. Remove the UCA from the vehicle.

14. Have a celebratory beer. You are halfway there! (hopefully something really tasty!)

15. Place new UCA in place, and thread in through bolt.



16. Replace through bolt washer and nut.


******VERY IMPORTANT******
The orientation should be: Long Bolt, Large Washer, A-Arm Bushing, UCA Tube mounted to chassis, other side, A-Arm Bushing, Large Washer, Nut

Also, make sure the Lower Control Arm is supported by a jack. The weight of the vehicle needs to be on the UCA for the bushings to seat properly. If you tighten the UCA through bolt without weight on the suspension, the bushings will be destroyed quickly.

You can torque the through bolt with the wheel on the ground, and the weight on the tire.

Torque nut with torque wrench to 85 ft-lbs





17. Place ABS wire bracket back on new UCA. I had to bend the shape of the ABS wire bracket on both sides to get it to fit just right on the new UCA, and then had to cut and reposition the rubber sheath around the wire (CAREFUL!!!), then bend the tabs on the bracket and gently crimp them around the ABS wire. If you cut or crush this wire, you'll be pretty bummed out. You have to place the wire in a spot where the articulation of the UCA won't pull or crush the ABS wire. There is room, but just barely.



18. Place the supplied washer ABOVE THE KNUCKLE AND BELOW THE BALL JOINT and place the ball joint stud into knuckle. (Some have questioned why the washer is there. It seems to be to keep the grease inside the boot. So yes, the washer goes ABOVE the boot!!)



19. Place the nylon lock nut onto the ball joint stud finger tight. The nut size may be 21mm. I didn't have a wrench that big, so I very carefully tightened the nut with a crescent wrench. Use a 10mm wrench to hold the ball joint stud from rotating. Torque to 45 ft-lbs.







20. Admire your work! Almost done!





21. Replace fender aprons and clips, tire and lug nuts, carefully remove jackstands and wheel chocks, repeat for the other side, get an alignment, and go rip it up!

And time for a celebratory beer (or a bunch!!).



One last thing, here is my alignment printout:

Slowgoat said:

18. Place the supplied washer ABOVE THE KNUCKLE AND BELOW THE BALL JOINT and place the ball joint stud into knuckle.

Click to expand...

I already installed my JBAs a couple of months ago, and after looking at your write up I've noticed that I placed my washer BELOW the knuckle, between the knuckle and the nylon lock nut. I took it apart today to try to fix it, but couldn't for the life of me separate the ball joint from the knuckle again. I tried everything but a pickle fork.

I've done everything I can do for the day, but do you think this washer being placed incorrectly will make a big difference? What is the thought process behind its placement?

Great write up BTW!

best write up for uca, thanks. the other ones arent nearly as helpful

jonathansdotson said:

I already installed my JBAs a couple of months ago, and after looking at your write up I've noticed that I placed my washer BELOW the knuckle, between the knuckle and the nylon lock nut. I took it apart today to try to fix it, but couldn't for the life of me separate the ball joint from the knuckle again. I tried everything but a pickle fork.

I've done everything I can do for the day, but do you think this washer being placed incorrectly will make a big difference? What is the thought process behind its placement?

Great write up BTW!

Click to expand...

Also curious as to why the washer should go on top... There really should be a washer between the nylock and the spindle.

Here are Al's instructions:

Jeepin By Al Tacoma/FJ/4runner Install Instructions

I thought the exact same thing about the washer. Look at the highlighted area, #4 under " Install ".

I just did what the instructions directed.

I'm emailing Marlin, but there has to be a solid reason. I'll post when I hear back.

Edit: Marlin wrote back. He said "No, it is not dangerous, the ball joint boot seal is not optimum."

Oh, and thanks for the compliments!

I really appreciate it!!

HAndling impacts

How has the upgrade impacted the handling with all the additional caster? Significant difference?

hawk-i said:

How has the upgrade impacted the handling with all the additional caster? Significant difference?

Click to expand...

Significant.

There is no more wandering at highway speeds. That I'd say is the biggest improvement. If I let go of the wheel before with stock UCAs, it was trying to put me in the ditch instantly. Now, I can keep a straight line easily.

Slowgoat said:

Significant.



There is no more wandering at highway speeds. That I'd say is the biggest improvement. If I let go of the wheel before with stock UCAs, it was trying to put me in the ditch instantly. Now, I can keep a straight line easily.

Click to expand...

I did new UCA recently when I did my suspension recently. It's like a night and day difference once I got my 4Runner aligned properly. It drives amazing. No more wandering or twitchy steering. I can drive straight! Even when I've bombed down dirt roads it felt great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the writeup along with the "Tacoma 14 minute install" video. I like that you emphasized some things the "14 minute" did not such as not fully torqueing the UCA through bolt unless there is full weight on the suspension, being careful of the ABS wires, prepping with Kroil or an equivalent.

The 14 minute video also didn't mention do not fully torque the lower shock mounts until full weight is on the suspension. I have the parts lined up, Kroiling, antiseize for the install, hopefully I'll have the job knocked out by Wednesday.

Thanks for the writeup and pics. Very helpful. First time I've done UCA's along with a suspension swap.

I did the full suspension swap from XREAS to Toytec Boss kit and SPC UCA's. BTW, about nine months ago SPC fixed the problems you mentioned - updated bushings/washers, added a grease zerk for the balljoint. I bought SPC UCA's with the Boss kit.

I did pretty much the same as you, but disconnected the ABS bracket, brakeline bracket, and swaybar links as the first steps (thanks for the 6mm Allen key hint, didn't know about that, had been using channel locks on the other side to keep the link from moving as I turned the nut).

I'm glad I replaced the UCA's not only for the alignment benefits with a lift, but also it was so much easier to get the OEM coilovers out and new coilovers in with the UCA's yanked beforehand. I had to use a picklefork to release the OEM UCA's (hammering didn't work).

I also worked the fenderwell out, but because I was installing shocks I worked it out a little more toward the middle so I could get to the inside 14mm top shock nut via the engine bay with a socket. The inside top shock nut is a pain, it's blind and if rusted the best bet is a 6-point socket via the engine bay with visibility instead of blindly trying to get a boxend on it via the wheel well and moving it a millimeter at a time. Passenger side top shock nut have to remove the airbox to get to it via the engine bay, driver side is easy.

flipflopnfly said:

Thanks for the writeup and pics. Very helpful. First time I've done UCA's along with a suspension swap.

I did the full suspension swap from XREAS to Toytec Boss kit and SPC UCA's. BTW, about nine months ago SPC fixed the problems you mentioned - updated bushings/washers, added a grease zerk for the balljoint. I bought SPC UCA's with the Boss kit.

I did pretty much the same as you, but disconnected the ABS bracket, brakeline bracket, and swaybar links as the first steps (thanks for the 6mm Allen key hint, didn't know about that, had been using channel locks on the other side to keep the link from moving as I turned the nut).

I'm glad I replaced the UCA's not only for the alignment benefits with a lift, but also it was so much easier to get the OEM coilovers out and new coilovers in with the UCA's yanked beforehand. I had to use a picklefork to release the OEM UCA's (hammering didn't work).

I also worked the fenderwell out, but because I was installing shocks I worked it out a little more toward the middle so I could get to the inside 14mm top shock nut via the engine bay with a socket. The inside top shock nut is a pain, it's blind and if rusted the best bet is a 6-point socket via the engine bay with visibility instead of blindly trying to get a boxend on it via the wheel well and moving it a millimeter at a time. Passenger side top shock nut have to remove the airbox to get to it via the engine bay, driver side is easy.

Click to expand...

Great ! Glad it was helpful!!!

very nice write up. Those JBA arms will be what I go with when I do UCA

Great write up! I look forward to doing this in the next few weeks when I find the time. I've got some JBA arms the other day.
Looking forward to the improved handeling. :lookout:

Great great write up. Really appreciate you taking the time to do this. I've read good things about the JBA's, I'll be going with them also.

This should be sticky or linked into a sticky for sure.

Excellent, clear write up for a DIY how to.

I have the JBA high caster std arms for a little over a year.. they aligned great, they hold up great, they flex as good as I need on extended travel coil overs and parts replacements look easy. Eyeing the new JBA balljoint.
I also Painted them silver because Red isnt for everyone and thats the only way they come.

Awesome write up. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Will be knocking this out when i do my lift.

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Slowgoat said:

Also, make sure the Lower Control Arm is supported by a jack. The weight of the vehicle needs to be on the UCA for the bushings to seat properly. If you tighten the UCA through bolt without weight on the suspension, the bushings will be destroyed quickly.

Click to expand...

Only true for stock type rubber bushings, not true for poly.

I just did mine. I did not remove the battery or anything around it. I had to remove the bolts holding the brake hardline brackets to the frame so that I can push them aside to make enough space to put a socket on the UCA nut. Same applied to one small bolt holding the AC lines on the pass side, blocking the long bolt.

My Camburg UCAs use poly bushings so it didn't matter how I torque them down. I could fairly easily move the UCA by hand after torquing the nut to spec. Looking at OP's photos it appears his UCA has rubber bushings like stock so I guess those need to be tightened in the proper position.

I must say it took me a lot longer than I thought but not because I had any trouble - I was just really taking my time. If I was doing it on a weekend it would have been even pleasant but in this case it was evening after work so there was a bit of time pressure at the end, I do need my regular full 8 hours of sleep.