3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

mtbtim said:

Take another look at the video. We routed it just like the decal. The decal shows a static pulley rather than the dynamic one Sean bought. I'm pretty sure the belt can only go on one way to work correctly. We're glad you like the video.

**Edit I just watched the part of the video where we get the belt in place and you are correct. The routing we did is different than the decal. The decal is obviously showing the routing for a fixed supercharger pulley and not the dynamic tensioner Sean bought for this job. Thanks for pointing this out to us.

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2ndhandyotaman said:

Maybe the different pulley is what was different, I just thought that the decal was showing that the belt from the alternator went to the blower pulley then wrapped around the idler which looks like it would have cleared the dipstick.

No offense intended ( if any was taken ) just trying to clarify. I enjoy the vids because you show the FSM and use that as your guide instead of trying to figure it out as you go.

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mtbtim said:

Do you have water dripping from areas of your headliner? Do you have a sunroof in your vehicle? If the answer is Yes to both questions, watch this video to try to isolate where your leak is coming from. It could be because you have clogged sunroof drains that need to cleared.

You can clear your own drains with a little persuasion from weed whacker line or some other type of solid line you can snake in the drains.

**In the video, I say the driver side rear drain travels down the B-Pillar but it actually travels down the C-Pillar and then over the wheel-well.

**Some people have employed the use of compressed air but you need to be careful if you choose this method. If you use too high of air pressure, you could force the drain tube off the fitting and then you'd be forced to pull down your headliner so you can reattach the drain tube.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qalXo4etX3Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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Mark_BC said:

IDK Tim, that seems like a lot of work. Caulking might work better

https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/d/1998-4runner/6490831294.html

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Mark_BC said:

IDK Tim, that seems like a lot of work. Caulking might work better

https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/d/1998-4runner/6490831294.html

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Mark_BC said:

IDK Tim, that seems like a lot of work. Caulking might work better

https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/d/1998-4runner/6490831294.html

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mtbtim said:

In this video we show you how to drop your fuel tank, remove the fuel bracket assembly, replace the fuel sending unit and get everything back together. The steps we show in this video would be all the same steps if you had to replace your fuel pump.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GrzX_K-jcuo" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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prcGTI said:

Thanks for taking the time to collect all these and make the thread into a "one stop DIY shop" Great reference

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2ndhandyotaman said:

Tim, have you thought of tackling the double cardan joint on the rear driveshaft? Thanks for continuing to make the DIY vids, they have helped me on a few occasions as well as countless other people.

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mtbtim said:

Hey Dudes,

We thought we'd share a milestone with Y'all. It took us 2 years, 1 month, and 19 days to finally hit 1 MILLION VIEWS. Also in that time, we created 69 videos and have attracted approximately 6400 subscribers. Sean (aka [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]) and I are proud of what we've accomplished so far and we appreciate the support that we've gotten from many of you on this forum.

Sick Mods for All!

Timmy the Toolman and Sean

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