Serpentine Belt replacement
- Thread starter Jasonblu
- Start date
pDubs
New member
Scratch that. After popping the hood on my own 5th gen which I know for a fact is the original belt. 7pk2150 written right on it. Ordered the Bando 7pk2150 for $14 on amazon!
I have a 2015 4Runner TRD Pro. I have been reading about the serpentine belts and seems the Bando 2145 or 2150 will both fit. I want to buy one to put away in the storage tray as a spare.
I did some research on RockAuto's site and it seems the belt lengths vary between about 2144 and 2164. So I am pretty sure either the 2145 or 2150 would work fine.
Question on the belts width, they are slightly different I think. Does anyone know what the belt width of the Toyota OEM belt is? Maybe the variances aren't enough to matter?
I did some research on RockAuto's site and it seems the belt lengths vary between about 2144 and 2164. So I am pretty sure either the 2145 or 2150 would work fine.
Question on the belts width, they are slightly different I think. Does anyone know what the belt width of the Toyota OEM belt is? Maybe the variances aren't enough to matter?
DougR
Member
The serpentine belt is made of EPDM rubber which gradually wears out. The 4Runner automatic tensioner accommodates a range of wear that occurs throughout the life of the belt, typically 90,000 miles. See detailed information here http://www.daycoproducts.com/stuff/.../files/047376a_belttrainingprogram___2016.pdf and here https://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/97447/multi-rib-v-belt-systems
A 7K846 ACDelco belt is 2164 mm outside circumference and 2150 mm effective length (assume uninstalled). The width is 24 mm (assume uninstalled).
It's difficult to measure belt width installed or uninstalled because it readily deforms. V-ribbed belt specifications accepted by all manufactures (Bando, Gates, ACDelco etc.) would include number of ribs where the inner rib and outer rib are designed to a particular profile and tolerances, the sum of which then determines the belt width.
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1000MPH
Senior Member
Did you install it from the top or the bottom?
TrkyMfns
New member
I just installed mine from the top. It was pretty straightforward and didn't take more than 10-15 minutes. No need to unbolt the fan either. Most of the time was spent triple checking to make sure I routed everything correctly.
1000MPH
Senior Member
Thanks. I can barely get my hand down there but I'll give it a shot.
1000MPH
Senior Member
Did mine today while I was waiting for my front diff to drain. Was pretty straightforward, the hardest part was feeling around to find the hole in the tensioner that locks it back. Like trkymfns said, most of the time is spent checking the routing is correct. The Bando replacement looks to be better quality than the OEM I took off. Judging by the before and after pics of the tensioner, this belt is larger by one tick mark. My 2010 is an early build, they may have changed the spec to the 2150 at some point early in production.
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1000MPH
Senior Member
Ha! No doubt. A little late for you but I definitely recommend watching the vid from the second post.
1000MPH
Senior Member
See the diagram. Several idler pulleys. The other accessories also have bearings. When you take off the belt you can spin the pulleys with your hands to see if they turn smoothly. Replace if they’re bad. They’re expensive, I wouldn’t replace unless necessary. They will usually give you some warning but I just had a friend who had one go out while up the mountain and he drove 20 miles on a frozen one. He said it cooked the belt and made a hell of a noise but made it without breaking.
A couple of notes, since I just did mine:
- I have a 2010, and I'm fairly confident the OEM (unmarked) belt was a 2145, based on length, so that's what I used. It sounds like they may have switched at some point.
- The hole in the tensioner was much lower than I was expecting - even though the pictures do show this, I thought it was part of the tensioner pulley when in fact it's part of the assembly below the pulley.
- I had to use a 1/2-in ratchet (with an extension, but then a short socket) to get enough leverage to move the hole into the next "section" that it grabs on. The ratchet has to go between a hose and the fan, so getting the right length tool is important.
- This may be a "duh" thing but at first inspection of the diagram I thought the belt would end up pulling out on one side or the other of the water pump/fan shaft, but that's not the case. You have to feed the belt around the front side of the fan to get it out.
- At first I didn't think the 2145 was going to fit, but the belt wasn't properly seated in the crankshaft pulley. I put it back onto the tensioner last, which was nice because even loosened it was snug, giving me some guarantee that I had threaded it properly.
- I have a 2010, and I'm fairly confident the OEM (unmarked) belt was a 2145, based on length, so that's what I used. It sounds like they may have switched at some point.
- The hole in the tensioner was much lower than I was expecting - even though the pictures do show this, I thought it was part of the tensioner pulley when in fact it's part of the assembly below the pulley.
- I had to use a 1/2-in ratchet (with an extension, but then a short socket) to get enough leverage to move the hole into the next "section" that it grabs on. The ratchet has to go between a hose and the fan, so getting the right length tool is important.
- This may be a "duh" thing but at first inspection of the diagram I thought the belt would end up pulling out on one side or the other of the water pump/fan shaft, but that's not the case. You have to feed the belt around the front side of the fan to get it out.
- At first I didn't think the 2145 was going to fit, but the belt wasn't properly seated in the crankshaft pulley. I put it back onto the tensioner last, which was nice because even loosened it was snug, giving me some guarantee that I had threaded it properly.
Guys, Great information. I've been wondering what I'd do "100 miles from nowhere" in the desert if my belt breaks on my 2014 4Runner. One thing in the threads that bothered me, and that was find the cheapest belt. The belt is one of the "single point failure points" on any vehicle. If the belt breaks you're not moving far. Another single point failure point is the battery (I installed dual batteries). I also carry 2 spare tires. I know people who have had 2 flat tires off-roading. Why would anyone want the cheapest belt (which usually means low quality)! I want the highest quality belt, which probably means more expensive to manufacture. I was speaking with a Jeep owner yesterday. He said he installed an "upgraded" belt on his Jeep. The upgrade was a Kevlar infused/coated belt. Much higher quality and reliability than the OEM Jeep belt. Anyone heard of such a belt? I'm starting my research now.
kenwilliams0803
New member
Literally the best belt out there has always been the Goodyear Gatorback. It's distinctive because it has cross-cuts in the ribs, looking almost like alligator skin. That division of GY was bought by Continental and it's now marketed under the Continental Elite brand. Careful though when buying, there is a Conti belt without the cross hatching too. I got that one by mistake the last time I did the belt on the wifes car (QX56) which is a notorious belt eater. Worked OK so far but we will see how long it lasts before she gets the cold startup squeak.
Joe-Runner
New member
Thanks for all the info shared on this thread. Just wanted to share my experience.
2013 Trail at 92K - OEM belt was 2150. Amazon says 2145 for my truck but I purchased the 2150. The original was showing its age but looked to have some life left in it. Bando replacement from Amazon looks to be quality.
Overall easy job. Couldn't find the hole to lock it back but an 18" breaker bar with 12 point 14mm deep socket made the job easy. Hardest part in reinstallation was getting it under the fan pulley cause the clearance was so close.
I was going to replace tensioner and/or pulleys but they're stupid expensive and luckily they all look/sound good [emoji106]
2013 Trail at 92K - OEM belt was 2150. Amazon says 2145 for my truck but I purchased the 2150. The original was showing its age but looked to have some life left in it. Bando replacement from Amazon looks to be quality.
Overall easy job. Couldn't find the hole to lock it back but an 18" breaker bar with 12 point 14mm deep socket made the job easy. Hardest part in reinstallation was getting it under the fan pulley cause the clearance was so close.
I was going to replace tensioner and/or pulleys but they're stupid expensive and luckily they all look/sound good [emoji106]
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