Nice, I’m in the towers at 45th and main, cant miss them.
UtahRnr’s build
- Thread starter UtahRnr
- Start date
Nice, I’m in the towers at 45th and main, cant miss them.
Riverfisher
New member
I’m not aware of any T4R specific meet ups but that doesn’t mean they aren’t happening. The most popular local group that isn’t dedicated to Jeeps is the Expedition Utah group. They do some pretty cool stuff.
UtahRnr
New member
Tailgate Window and Opener Interior Switches (AKA Camping Mod)
(Tailgate hatch open and window/lock control switch from inside)
This mod puts two switches inside the cargo area so you can roll the tailgate window up and down, lock/unlock the tailgate, and unlatch (open/pop) the tailgate hatch door from the inside. Very handy if you sleep back there like I do. I should mention that no key is required in the ignition for this to work.
Security Disclaimer thanks [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] for pointing this out
By doing this mod, you will have a security risk. A thief could break your back window, and use the switch to unlock the doors/disarm the factory security system, and gain access to the vehicle. It uses the tailgate key switch, so it's like having the key to unlock the door, disarming the system.
Disclaimer for Flamers, LOL: :flamethrwoer2:
I've seen this mod mentioned many times on the forum. The 3rd gen guys have a thread pointing out the wires required to tap. I couldn't find anything for the 5th gen with instructions. I did see that in this thread, a fella has done this for 5th and 4th gens and is selling a harness with instructions for $50, and some folks are getting bent out of shape that he didn't post the instructions for how to do it without paying. I ain't gonna shame a fella for making a buck, so kudos to him - but I'm a DIY kind of guy so I just wanted instructions. This is something I had the brains to figure out, so I'm not about to pay for it. So flame away, but I'm posting the instructions here for anyone to use for free.
With a little effort anyone on this forum can figure this out since the electrical wiring schematics are posted on the Modifications, Write-Ups, Quick Links and FAQs sticky, and many before me already have figured it out. I didn't find any instructions in the forum specific to 5th gen, so here we go.
You'll need the following items to do this:
First, we need to remove the tailgate interior trim panel. This is pretty simple.
Locate the strap, and using a trim removal tool, pocketknife (put vinyl tape on the blade) or flathead screwdriver, pop the surrounding piece of trim off.
Remove the 10mm bolt with your ratchet.
The strap comes off with the bolt. Set these aside.
Now time to remove the trim. There are 12 trim fasteners, they are just the press-on snap fasteners. This picture shows the locations. I used a flat, wide trim removal tool to pop the first one, then my hands as I went around slowly. The last one is kind of in the middle, opposite where the 10mm bolt was.
Once you get the trim unfastened, it will be hanging by two wire harnesses attached to the cargo lights. You'll need to disconnect these to get the panel completely free. Set the panel aside.
The next steps involve some wiring which I found most easily done from inside the 4Runner with the hatch closed. Before you do this, you might want to put the 2nd row seats down so you can get in and out easily.
In the middle of the door you'll see a black box. This is the ECU for the tailgate. It controls locking, window and other electrical circuit functions.
If you don't care about understanding the circuits and how I figured out which wires to use, then you can skip past the schematics.
This is a page from the Door Lock Control schematic. It shows the Tail Gate Control Switch Assembly (W4) is wired through the Tail Gate ECU through a connector called W10. On the W10 connector, the wires are in locations 8, 15, and 16. If you look at W4, this circuit controls the tail gate being locked or unlocked with the key in the door keyhole.
This is a page from the Power Window Schematic. It is showing that the same switch (W4) that we saw in the door lock schematic above also controls the tailgate window going up and down. If you put your key into the tailgate keyhole and turn it counter-clockwise, the door will unlock. If you hold the key counter-clockwise, the window will then roll down. If you turn the key clockwise, the window will roll back up and the door will lock. Same switch controls all four functions via these three wires tied into W10 at pins 8, 15, and 16.
Let's go find W10...
Since the W10 connector is part of both the Door Lock and Power Window circuits, it's shown in both of those schematics at the back. Here is where we will find pins 8, 15, and 16. When you unplug the W10 connector and look at the end of it, it will look just like this picture, and you'll see where the wires are. You're looking for the purple, red and pink wires in these positions for the door locks and power window part of this mod. We will tap into those wires and run the 3 of them to your momentary ON / OFF / momentary ON switch (window up/down switch).
The last part was to figure out how to pop the door open from the inside. The Door Opener is part of the License Plate Sub Assembly (it shares 2 wires for the license plate lights). I found the Door Opener Switch in the Door Lock Control schematic. You can see that it has a light green and a grey wire, and they also connect to the same W10 ECU connector. All that means is that we can tap all of our wires at the same connector and we don't have to go all over the place looking for them. Note that the wires plug into W10 at pins 7 and 24.
Let's look at the W10 again, for the door opener:
Same connector as before, but for the door opener (to pop the hatch open) we will need to tap into the light green and gray wires at pins 7 and 24.
The final piece of the puzzle - where is W10? Looking at the hatch, the ECU is the black box in the middle. There are two connectors attached, the top one is W10. Disconnect it, and you'll find all the wires listed above at the corresponding pin connections.
This is the W10 ECU connector. ^ ^ ^ You'll need to peel the harness loom back in order to get enough slack to separate and then tap the wires.
How to wire:
Door Opener Switch (momentary on push switch)
You'll be tapping into 2 wires. Gray and Light green at positions 7 and 24 for this switch will open your door.
Window Up/Down and Door Locked/Unlocked Switch (momentary ON / OFF / momentary ON switch)
You'll be tapping into 3 wires. Purple, Red and Pink at positions 8, 15 and 16. 8 (Purple) will be your common on this switch, with 15 and 16 being wired to the momentary ON positions on the switch - that will give you windows up (hold), and lock with a tap of the button as well as windows down (hold) and door unlock with a tap.
Easy. Now we know what wires we need, and we know where to find them. The rest is just busy work! I've already shown you everything you need to finish this if you know how to wire a switch.
Something to consider - remember when we disconnected the trim panel and it was still attached to the cargo light harness connectors? The same thing will happen with your switches if you have to take the trim panel off again in the future. The trim panel will be hanging from your wires to your switches. Not good. You might consider not soldering the wires directly to the switches, and instead using terminals that can be easily disconnected from the switches, like female spade terminals. Either that, or use some bullet terminals inline in your wiring where it can be easily disconnected/reconnected. Also, plenty of vinyl tape around the end of your harness you made to keep it sturdy.
I'm still connecting up my switches now, but everything is tested and working fine. I'll edit this post and add my post-install pics when I'm done.
:reddance:
(Tailgate hatch open and window/lock control switch from inside)
This mod puts two switches inside the cargo area so you can roll the tailgate window up and down, lock/unlock the tailgate, and unlatch (open/pop) the tailgate hatch door from the inside. Very handy if you sleep back there like I do. I should mention that no key is required in the ignition for this to work.
Security Disclaimer thanks [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] for pointing this out
By doing this mod, you will have a security risk. A thief could break your back window, and use the switch to unlock the doors/disarm the factory security system, and gain access to the vehicle. It uses the tailgate key switch, so it's like having the key to unlock the door, disarming the system.
Disclaimer for Flamers, LOL: :flamethrwoer2:
I've seen this mod mentioned many times on the forum. The 3rd gen guys have a thread pointing out the wires required to tap. I couldn't find anything for the 5th gen with instructions. I did see that in this thread, a fella has done this for 5th and 4th gens and is selling a harness with instructions for $50, and some folks are getting bent out of shape that he didn't post the instructions for how to do it without paying. I ain't gonna shame a fella for making a buck, so kudos to him - but I'm a DIY kind of guy so I just wanted instructions. This is something I had the brains to figure out, so I'm not about to pay for it. So flame away, but I'm posting the instructions here for anyone to use for free.
With a little effort anyone on this forum can figure this out since the electrical wiring schematics are posted on the Modifications, Write-Ups, Quick Links and FAQs sticky, and many before me already have figured it out. I didn't find any instructions in the forum specific to 5th gen, so here we go.
You'll need the following items to do this:
- 5 x wire taps for 22 ga. wire
- about 15' of 22 ga wire. I used 5 different colors. Colors will make it easier, but not required
- Switch: momentary on (push button type, like this)
- Switch: momentary on / off / momentary on (rocker type, 3 pins, spst like this)
- trim removal tool (optional, you could use a putty knife)
- 10mm socket
- ratchet, with extension (extension optional)
- vinyl electrical tape, or wire loom
- drill to create hole in your plastic for the switches
- elbow grease
First, we need to remove the tailgate interior trim panel. This is pretty simple.
Locate the strap, and using a trim removal tool, pocketknife (put vinyl tape on the blade) or flathead screwdriver, pop the surrounding piece of trim off.
Remove the 10mm bolt with your ratchet.
The strap comes off with the bolt. Set these aside.
Now time to remove the trim. There are 12 trim fasteners, they are just the press-on snap fasteners. This picture shows the locations. I used a flat, wide trim removal tool to pop the first one, then my hands as I went around slowly. The last one is kind of in the middle, opposite where the 10mm bolt was.
Once you get the trim unfastened, it will be hanging by two wire harnesses attached to the cargo lights. You'll need to disconnect these to get the panel completely free. Set the panel aside.
The next steps involve some wiring which I found most easily done from inside the 4Runner with the hatch closed. Before you do this, you might want to put the 2nd row seats down so you can get in and out easily.
In the middle of the door you'll see a black box. This is the ECU for the tailgate. It controls locking, window and other electrical circuit functions.
If you don't care about understanding the circuits and how I figured out which wires to use, then you can skip past the schematics.
This is a page from the Door Lock Control schematic. It shows the Tail Gate Control Switch Assembly (W4) is wired through the Tail Gate ECU through a connector called W10. On the W10 connector, the wires are in locations 8, 15, and 16. If you look at W4, this circuit controls the tail gate being locked or unlocked with the key in the door keyhole.
This is a page from the Power Window Schematic. It is showing that the same switch (W4) that we saw in the door lock schematic above also controls the tailgate window going up and down. If you put your key into the tailgate keyhole and turn it counter-clockwise, the door will unlock. If you hold the key counter-clockwise, the window will then roll down. If you turn the key clockwise, the window will roll back up and the door will lock. Same switch controls all four functions via these three wires tied into W10 at pins 8, 15, and 16.
Let's go find W10...
Since the W10 connector is part of both the Door Lock and Power Window circuits, it's shown in both of those schematics at the back. Here is where we will find pins 8, 15, and 16. When you unplug the W10 connector and look at the end of it, it will look just like this picture, and you'll see where the wires are. You're looking for the purple, red and pink wires in these positions for the door locks and power window part of this mod. We will tap into those wires and run the 3 of them to your momentary ON / OFF / momentary ON switch (window up/down switch).
The last part was to figure out how to pop the door open from the inside. The Door Opener is part of the License Plate Sub Assembly (it shares 2 wires for the license plate lights). I found the Door Opener Switch in the Door Lock Control schematic. You can see that it has a light green and a grey wire, and they also connect to the same W10 ECU connector. All that means is that we can tap all of our wires at the same connector and we don't have to go all over the place looking for them. Note that the wires plug into W10 at pins 7 and 24.
Let's look at the W10 again, for the door opener:
Same connector as before, but for the door opener (to pop the hatch open) we will need to tap into the light green and gray wires at pins 7 and 24.
The final piece of the puzzle - where is W10? Looking at the hatch, the ECU is the black box in the middle. There are two connectors attached, the top one is W10. Disconnect it, and you'll find all the wires listed above at the corresponding pin connections.
This is the W10 ECU connector. ^ ^ ^ You'll need to peel the harness loom back in order to get enough slack to separate and then tap the wires.
How to wire:
Door Opener Switch (momentary on push switch)
You'll be tapping into 2 wires. Gray and Light green at positions 7 and 24 for this switch will open your door.
Window Up/Down and Door Locked/Unlocked Switch (momentary ON / OFF / momentary ON switch)
You'll be tapping into 3 wires. Purple, Red and Pink at positions 8, 15 and 16. 8 (Purple) will be your common on this switch, with 15 and 16 being wired to the momentary ON positions on the switch - that will give you windows up (hold), and lock with a tap of the button as well as windows down (hold) and door unlock with a tap.
Easy. Now we know what wires we need, and we know where to find them. The rest is just busy work! I've already shown you everything you need to finish this if you know how to wire a switch.
- Pick your switch locations
- drill the holes
- tap the wires identified above with your new 22 awg wire
- run your new wires to the switch locations and connect them
Something to consider - remember when we disconnected the trim panel and it was still attached to the cargo light harness connectors? The same thing will happen with your switches if you have to take the trim panel off again in the future. The trim panel will be hanging from your wires to your switches. Not good. You might consider not soldering the wires directly to the switches, and instead using terminals that can be easily disconnected from the switches, like female spade terminals. Either that, or use some bullet terminals inline in your wiring where it can be easily disconnected/reconnected. Also, plenty of vinyl tape around the end of your harness you made to keep it sturdy.
I'm still connecting up my switches now, but everything is tested and working fine. I'll edit this post and add my post-install pics when I'm done.
:reddance:
Last edited:
gshadow325
New member
i just read your post and realized you posted the install instructions for the tail gate opening.
Do you realize that this is going to give a thief access to the vehicle?
What this does is just using the unlock to disarm the factory security circumventing the need for the actual key. by holding it down it will simulate what you would do when you insert a key into the tailgate cylinder.
So if the switch is placed within view like i have seen some guys do because they dont want to fish it thru the hatch boot. a thief can break the window and press unlock and disarm the factory security. Dont forget, there is no impact sensor on factory security systems. The difference here vs lets say they broke the drivers window and hit unlock on the drivers door. the system will not go off until the door is opened, there is a door pin switch. hitting the unlock switch will not disarm the truck. using the rear "mod switch" will since it is directly going to the rear key cylinder microswitch that is meant for factory arm and disarm.
I'm not trying to start any war or anything, just was not sure if you knew of this security vulnerability now with this modification.
Do you realize that this is going to give a thief access to the vehicle?
What this does is just using the unlock to disarm the factory security circumventing the need for the actual key. by holding it down it will simulate what you would do when you insert a key into the tailgate cylinder.
So if the switch is placed within view like i have seen some guys do because they dont want to fish it thru the hatch boot. a thief can break the window and press unlock and disarm the factory security. Dont forget, there is no impact sensor on factory security systems. The difference here vs lets say they broke the drivers window and hit unlock on the drivers door. the system will not go off until the door is opened, there is a door pin switch. hitting the unlock switch will not disarm the truck. using the rear "mod switch" will since it is directly going to the rear key cylinder microswitch that is meant for factory arm and disarm.
I'm not trying to start any war or anything, just was not sure if you knew of this security vulnerability now with this modification.
UtahRnr
New member
You're correct. If the thief (1) knew it was there, and (2) knew what the switch did, they could do what you're proposing. Anyone running this mod (and I'm not the only one
) would be running the same risk. It can be mitigated slightly by putting the switches further out of view, or in an inconspicuous place.However, on my ride, you can't see the switches from outside the vehicle, so I don't think it's likely they'll just somehow guess that these switches even exist or know what they'll do. I have additional tint (20% fronts, 50% on windshield and back windows) and you can't see inside the vehicle.
You can also further mitigate it with an impact sensor and aftermarket security.
Great comment! I edited my post to include a note about the security risk. I supposed with some additional effort, I could tap into different circuits to get the same result without the security risk. There is a rear window switch at the center console, for example, and that could be used, as well as the door unlock circuit from the front of the car. I'll look into it.
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QwikKotaTx
New member
Yeah, I have mixed feelings about doing the clear bra... I'm hadn't considering DYI'ing it though. I'm better at mechanical and electrical things. There are a lot of videos on how to do it on the interwebs. Was it fairly painless?
As for the different paint color, only thing that could possibly prevent that is always parking indoors... which I can't do at work. Wax won't prevent UV fading...hwell:
Honestly I'm more concerned about rock chips than paint fading because where I live roads are perpetually under construction.
Sorry, I don't get on here much. No, it was a pain for sure. The hood wasn't too bad but the fenders and front bumper were bad. You really need to do it inside of a garage to avoid wind and dirt flying underneath. I have done several and none have really turned out well. I think a bugflector is generally easier and going to protect way better, albeit limited to the leading edge of the hood. It's not the best looking solution but I am old and married, not terribly concerned with my looks.
gshadow325
New member
It's good you put it away from sight. I have seen some installs put it right there in plain view. Some thieves get really lucky sometimes. I just don't want anyone not knowing go ahead and do this. Just like the guys that get their truck stolen because they didn't want to spend the money on a remote starter and did the, I'll start it in the driveway with the key and run in and no one will steal my truck in my driveway thing. Yes this has happened to two forum members and 7 clients in my retail store lol. I had a client come out to his truck because the alarm went off in the middle of the night, not my install, he thought it was a false alarm. Rearmed the truck and went inside the house at 2am. 15 minutes later alarm goes off and he see dude running down the street with his radio. It was a real alarm he thought was false. Ended up locking thief in the truck lol.
Great mod. I planned to do it to my 4th gen a few years ago but ended up getting a RTT instead. I didn't think it would be this popular mod.
Great mod. I planned to do it to my 4th gen a few years ago but ended up getting a RTT instead. I didn't think it would be this popular mod.
gshadow325
New member
Hey I saw in your post about the tpms thingy and I remembered I ordered it from Alibaba for 20 bucks, so I finally opened it after it sat on my desk for 2 months.
This thing is pretty neat. If you guys don't mind waiting, it's now 22 bucks but this is the one I got and it works real neat I'm there photo. I'm ordering a second one for my other car.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
This thing is pretty neat. If you guys don't mind waiting, it's now 22 bucks but this is the one I got and it works real neat I'm there photo. I'm ordering a second one for my other car.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
UtahRnr
New member
Few fun things today...
I and installed an RCI skid that I bought on the classifieds here from another member. I've been wanting the aluminum skids, so I was glad that this one was both aluminum, and also installs WITH the TRD Pro skid plate, which I really like. I weighed the stock steel skid plate that it replaced, and the new RCI aluminum plate is only 2.6 lbs. heavier. :dancin:
Also, while I was under there, the TRD Pro skid plate looked a little grimy. I removed it, cleaned it, and painted it. Paint is still drying, so it will have to wait until tomorrow to go on.
And finally, these came - thanks to Jason Burtman for tracking them down for me:
Since I bought my T4R a few weeks ago, it has been in desperate need of a detail. The previous owner didn't have it detailed (private sale) before I picked it up, and there wasn't time. Yesterday I spent several hours vacuuming up about 2 years worth of golden retriever... Tonight, when I took the wheels off I decided to give the rims a good cleaning front and back, as well as hit the wheel wells properly. I love Meguiar's Super Degreaser, and I purchase it in 1 Gallon bulk at a local auto paint supplier. Using it full strength, it makes quick work of a wheel well. I use an IKEA dish scrubbing brush ($1) and get the area wet first, then let it drip for a minute or two before I apply the super degreaser. Then I let that soak for a minute and then hit it with the dish brush. Rinse, and repeat. When the suds from scrubbing the degreaser are no longer brown, but white, then I know it's going to be clean. I have not applied any product yet to the wheel wells. But I do have a nice all-season dressing (Meguiar's) that is AWESOME for wheel wells.
When it's not so cold outside, I'll detail the exhaust and undercarriage. I want to treat several rust spots (there is no major rust, just some light surface rust in a few places) and then put some spray rubber undercarriage on there.
And finally, the spacers are on. Before and after...
For reference, I'm running stock TRD Pro 17 rims, and Nitto Terra Grapplers in 265/70R17.
I and installed an RCI skid that I bought on the classifieds here from another member. I've been wanting the aluminum skids, so I was glad that this one was both aluminum, and also installs WITH the TRD Pro skid plate, which I really like. I weighed the stock steel skid plate that it replaced, and the new RCI aluminum plate is only 2.6 lbs. heavier. :dancin:
Also, while I was under there, the TRD Pro skid plate looked a little grimy. I removed it, cleaned it, and painted it. Paint is still drying, so it will have to wait until tomorrow to go on.
And finally, these came - thanks to Jason Burtman for tracking them down for me:
Since I bought my T4R a few weeks ago, it has been in desperate need of a detail. The previous owner didn't have it detailed (private sale) before I picked it up, and there wasn't time. Yesterday I spent several hours vacuuming up about 2 years worth of golden retriever... Tonight, when I took the wheels off I decided to give the rims a good cleaning front and back, as well as hit the wheel wells properly. I love Meguiar's Super Degreaser, and I purchase it in 1 Gallon bulk at a local auto paint supplier. Using it full strength, it makes quick work of a wheel well. I use an IKEA dish scrubbing brush ($1) and get the area wet first, then let it drip for a minute or two before I apply the super degreaser. Then I let that soak for a minute and then hit it with the dish brush. Rinse, and repeat. When the suds from scrubbing the degreaser are no longer brown, but white, then I know it's going to be clean. I have not applied any product yet to the wheel wells. But I do have a nice all-season dressing (Meguiar's) that is AWESOME for wheel wells.
When it's not so cold outside, I'll detail the exhaust and undercarriage. I want to treat several rust spots (there is no major rust, just some light surface rust in a few places) and then put some spray rubber undercarriage on there.
And finally, the spacers are on. Before and after...
For reference, I'm running stock TRD Pro 17 rims, and Nitto Terra Grapplers in 265/70R17.
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Lostmanifesto
New member
Nice truck. What was your reason for adding wheel spacers?
UtahRnr
New member
Thanks. I wanted a wider stance, but I like the stock rims.
Proffesor_X
New member
Those wheels are so nice.
UtahRnr
New member
Got the TRD skid plate put back on. Looks good. I like the orange accents with the Cement color.
Quick trip with my son last night to southern Utah. We explored the area west of Goblin Valley - it's a place I've been to many times before and have taken scouts to, but my son hadn't been to this particular canyon. He had seen pictures of his older brother there with me and wanted to see it first hand.
Weather was imminent but we had a safe window and enough time. The roads in this area are plastered with signs warning of impassable roads due to storms. They are a very soft dirt with some clay, and it makes for very slippery roads, quickly turns to heavy mud and one can easily get stuck. For the most part, the main roads are very well maintained. But there are countless 4x4 trails that shoot off from main roads that can are not maintained and can be very sketchy indeed.
Not having any recovery gear, and being solo, we stuck to areas I was familiar with and knew we could exit before the storm hit.
Drove down after work and got there around 8PM and enjoyed a fire and s'mores.
Woke up to this - not a bad way to start your day at all:
Hustlin' over to the canyon quick as we could... but of course stopping for photos... who could resist? The scenery is amazing in this place.
Below, in the center of the photo off in the distance are the La Sal mountains next to Moab.
Working our way South - near to the turn off... (actually it's just a stream bed)
What 8 year old can resist a cave?
To get to this canyon, we turned off the main road and took a stream bed as far as we could. The rest was on foot.
When you don't have to even ask them to smile, you know they're having fun. Who cares that it's 38 degrees?
Quick trip with my son last night to southern Utah. We explored the area west of Goblin Valley - it's a place I've been to many times before and have taken scouts to, but my son hadn't been to this particular canyon. He had seen pictures of his older brother there with me and wanted to see it first hand.
Weather was imminent but we had a safe window and enough time. The roads in this area are plastered with signs warning of impassable roads due to storms. They are a very soft dirt with some clay, and it makes for very slippery roads, quickly turns to heavy mud and one can easily get stuck. For the most part, the main roads are very well maintained. But there are countless 4x4 trails that shoot off from main roads that can are not maintained and can be very sketchy indeed.
Not having any recovery gear, and being solo, we stuck to areas I was familiar with and knew we could exit before the storm hit.
Drove down after work and got there around 8PM and enjoyed a fire and s'mores.
Woke up to this - not a bad way to start your day at all:
Hustlin' over to the canyon quick as we could... but of course stopping for photos... who could resist? The scenery is amazing in this place.
Below, in the center of the photo off in the distance are the La Sal mountains next to Moab.
Working our way South - near to the turn off... (actually it's just a stream bed)
What 8 year old can resist a cave?
To get to this canyon, we turned off the main road and took a stream bed as far as we could. The rest was on foot.
When you don't have to even ask them to smile, you know they're having fun. Who cares that it's 38 degrees?
El Dusty
Member
Nice build and thread. Looking forward to more.
usdashworks
New member
keep up the good work... looks great.
Great pics of your desert run ! You are a lucky guy to be able to enjoy that with your kid.
Thanks for the write up on the install of the window/door controls.
One question about it, what exactly does each of the switches do ?
It looks like the rocker switch is up/down for the windows, and I figure the red button unlocks the rear tailgate door.
Yet I feel that is an oversimplification, is there more to those switches that I'm not getting?
Thanks again!
:tea:
Thanks for the write up on the install of the window/door controls.
One question about it, what exactly does each of the switches do ?
It looks like the rocker switch is up/down for the windows, and I figure the red button unlocks the rear tailgate door.
Yet I feel that is an oversimplification, is there more to those switches that I'm not getting?
Thanks again!
:tea:
Mutant138
Banned
Been running that scangauge II now for a little bit only really messing with the tpms (haven't had time to mess with the other TFT's). It works quite well it's got a little delay to it, I think it updates every 10 seconds or so.
With all the extra features to include the ability to read and clear code I think it's a winner. Not to mention how outstanding the company was.
I went into further detail on my "build thread".
How's the amazon dangle working for you?
Edit from by thread:
Scangauge II / Pedal Commander
Was going to buy a scangauge II when I read that you can program them to give Tpms readouts from then oem sensors. Not to mention all the other vitals it gives.
I forgot I actually had one already for my 3rd gen sitting in a friend's vehicle. I heard a pop when I pulled the cord and noticed I had cut the cable. No biggie as scangauge HQ is in the same city as me. Well turns out I fried the board. Scangauge not only hooked it up with a free cord, but then threw in a new board, updated the unit, gave me all new instructions for FREE no questions asked. Literally came in for a cord with a broken outdated unit and came out the door with basically a new unit. Now that's a ****ing company. [MENTION=178113]ScanGauge[/MENTION] you guys are awesome.
Programming the tpms took about 30 mins to figure out and perfect. Works like a charm. It's not second to second accurate I think it updates every 10 seconds or so. After a side wall puncture a few month back I knew I needed more than an idiot light when airing up and down all the time. Haven't got around to programming the other goodies.
Pedal commander or something similar like the Sprint booster is a must IMO for these vehicles. Too much dead space in pedal travel. Pedal commander cleans up the throttle curve programming quite a bit too. I'm in sport mode one tack from max. I leave it like that all the time. Just wish someone would get rid of the remaining dead space. Part of me wonders if I could manually adjust that out of the pedal so it already sits right where the vehicle start opening the throttle. I always feel like it's a surprise when it finally engages (I lurch forward from a dead stop more then necessary it was worse without the pedal commander).
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
With all the extra features to include the ability to read and clear code I think it's a winner. Not to mention how outstanding the company was.
I went into further detail on my "build thread".
How's the amazon dangle working for you?
Edit from by thread:
Scangauge II / Pedal Commander
Was going to buy a scangauge II when I read that you can program them to give Tpms readouts from then oem sensors. Not to mention all the other vitals it gives.
I forgot I actually had one already for my 3rd gen sitting in a friend's vehicle. I heard a pop when I pulled the cord and noticed I had cut the cable. No biggie as scangauge HQ is in the same city as me. Well turns out I fried the board. Scangauge not only hooked it up with a free cord, but then threw in a new board, updated the unit, gave me all new instructions for FREE no questions asked. Literally came in for a cord with a broken outdated unit and came out the door with basically a new unit. Now that's a ****ing company. [MENTION=178113]ScanGauge[/MENTION] you guys are awesome.
Programming the tpms took about 30 mins to figure out and perfect. Works like a charm. It's not second to second accurate I think it updates every 10 seconds or so. After a side wall puncture a few month back I knew I needed more than an idiot light when airing up and down all the time. Haven't got around to programming the other goodies.
Pedal commander or something similar like the Sprint booster is a must IMO for these vehicles. Too much dead space in pedal travel. Pedal commander cleans up the throttle curve programming quite a bit too. I'm in sport mode one tack from max. I leave it like that all the time. Just wish someone would get rid of the remaining dead space. Part of me wonders if I could manually adjust that out of the pedal so it already sits right where the vehicle start opening the throttle. I always feel like it's a surprise when it finally engages (I lurch forward from a dead stop more then necessary it was worse without the pedal commander).
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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