My radiator is too young to die! (V6 radiator leak pics)
- Thread starter RunnerAK
- Start date
RunnerAK
New member
Finally had time to yank out the old radiator and install the new one last weekend. It was all pretty straight forward except getting to the coolant drain valves on the block through the wheel wells was a real b****! I put in a new Spectra Premium brand one with a lifetime warranty from Autozone, I wasn't going to spend the extra coin on an OEM one considering that is what crapped out after only 85k.
The old radiator, it failed at the DS end tank seam:
The old radiator, it failed at the DS end tank seam:
DannyLlama
Elite Member
My sister just found out she has a radiator leak, 2006 Sport and was quoted about 600. Her ODO is under 150 which I thought was odd to have a radiator go bad on a 4R but after searching I guess it's not that uncommon.
What has been the long term experience with these eBay radiators?
[MENTION=94968]RunnerAK[/MENTION] [MENTION=1300]Kmvreter[/MENTION]
Also does anyone have the link for the V6 version? Or do I just have to search for it on eBay?
Thanks
What has been the long term experience with these eBay radiators?
[MENTION=94968]RunnerAK[/MENTION] [MENTION=1300]Kmvreter[/MENTION]
Also does anyone have the link for the V6 version? Or do I just have to search for it on eBay?
Thanks
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I purchased mine off of ebay, this one..
It has worked fine for roughly 10k now. I did use the oem drain petcock though as the one that came with it leaked. Not a big deal, two seconds to swap.
It has worked fine for roughly 10k now. I did use the oem drain petcock though as the one that came with it leaked. Not a big deal, two seconds to swap.
daka320
New member
Radiator Koyorad 1640031351 Fits 03 09 Toyota 4Runner A2580 | eBay
Bought this radiator from rightaway autoparts on ebay two years and 40k miles ago. $197 then. It was the same manufacturer as the original radiator. Fit well and mechanic had no problem installing it. Has worked well.
Bought this radiator from rightaway autoparts on ebay two years and 40k miles ago. $197 then. It was the same manufacturer as the original radiator. Fit well and mechanic had no problem installing it. Has worked well.
nuclearsteel
New member
Looks like I am joining the radiator leak club
My 2008 has about 120K on it...just changed a CV axle and differential seal. While doing this I noticed the bottom drivers side of the radiator where the plastic and metal meet is leaking.
Debating between KOYO and Denso...kind of leaning towards Denso so I am looking for opinions from those who have experience with either.
Also...planning on changing all 4 rubber lines (gates), the thermostat (Toyota Stealership), and new coolant (Toyota Stealership).
Finally...considering doing the water pump while I have it all ripped down. No problems with mine at all but 120K and 8 years seems foolish not to consider it? Would get AISIN from Rockauto ses as I believe this is exactly the same as OEM. Any experience or opinions here?
My 2008 has about 120K on it...just changed a CV axle and differential seal. While doing this I noticed the bottom drivers side of the radiator where the plastic and metal meet is leaking.
Debating between KOYO and Denso...kind of leaning towards Denso so I am looking for opinions from those who have experience with either.
Also...planning on changing all 4 rubber lines (gates), the thermostat (Toyota Stealership), and new coolant (Toyota Stealership).
Finally...considering doing the water pump while I have it all ripped down. No problems with mine at all but 120K and 8 years seems foolish not to consider it? Would get AISIN from Rockauto ses as I believe this is exactly the same as OEM. Any experience or opinions here?
nuclearsteel
New member
Anyone?
eaglesfish
New member
I had my '05 V6 4runner radiator replaced at 70k. Turned out to be a rock that got kicked up from road surface. If you look under truck, there is a big gap from front bumper to first under/skid plate with no protection. Lots of space for road debris to kick up and bounce around in. Had to replace it, but it has not happened since. Hopefully, later generation models have fixed this issue (closed the open gap to protect radiator and cooler).
xwake4lifex
New member
I also have a small leak, but at the petcock on the driver's side. It's very minimal however. I'm at 165k on mine. I'd also be interested in knowing if this could be replaced.
Benny123
New member
Yeah, Im at 134000 and have a small leak I traced to the left lower radiator. It was hard to find, because the fan blew it all around. Its either the LL corner of the radiator or the petcock valve.
I am losing about 1 cup per week of fluid. I replaced the petcock today with 61125 (see below), as I saw seepage and drips there. I hope it works, but if not, pressure test this week and could be a radiator or water pump. Checked all the hoses and no leaks there. Its also interesting to note that it does not leak unless its driven over 5 miles or so, eg the leak doesnt happen when it sits, so keep that in mind, or you may drive yourself crazy.
IMPORTANT!
Autozone, Dorman and Amazon all say part 61136 fits. IT DOES NOT FIT. At least not a 2007 SR5 V6 4x4. WTF?! Ignore their recommendation. Had to run back to the store and return the wrong one after I opened the drain, found it to not fit, then refilled again.
I bought this one here despite warnings that it does not fit. BUT DORMAN 61125 FITS PERFECTLY. Other option would be to try just replacing the oring, which Im sure you could do if you had a second vehicle and were willing to do a full drain and refill.
Well see if it fixes long term, but for those who see seepage there, get Dorman 61125. Will update as the week goes on.
I am losing about 1 cup per week of fluid. I replaced the petcock today with 61125 (see below), as I saw seepage and drips there. I hope it works, but if not, pressure test this week and could be a radiator or water pump. Checked all the hoses and no leaks there. Its also interesting to note that it does not leak unless its driven over 5 miles or so, eg the leak doesnt happen when it sits, so keep that in mind, or you may drive yourself crazy.
IMPORTANT!
Autozone, Dorman and Amazon all say part 61136 fits. IT DOES NOT FIT. At least not a 2007 SR5 V6 4x4. WTF?! Ignore their recommendation. Had to run back to the store and return the wrong one after I opened the drain, found it to not fit, then refilled again.
I bought this one here despite warnings that it does not fit. BUT DORMAN 61125 FITS PERFECTLY. Other option would be to try just replacing the oring, which Im sure you could do if you had a second vehicle and were willing to do a full drain and refill.
Well see if it fixes long term, but for those who see seepage there, get Dorman 61125. Will update as the week goes on.
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Benny123
New member
So did the pressure test and its very clear it's leaking left (driver) lower corner and at the petcock, even with the new petcock from O'Reillys. Just like everyone else. Must be a design flaw of some sort. Ordered a new radiator and downloaded the FSM for 2007 4Runner.
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Benny123
New member
Some tips on removing the radiator.
1.Start drain first, it takes a while
2.Use bent nose pliers for hose clamps, makes access much easier on the driver side
3. I couldn't get the lower transmission hose off, so I unscrewed the hardware from the radiator, 15/16 open wrench
4. Use a flex head ratchet and a 13 mm wrench to get the bolts off the radiator. This is especially helpful on the lower bolts. No need to remove bumper, but straight ratchet doesn't work well
5. Much more fluid comes out of the radiator when it is tilted. You can do this in place or when it's out.
6. Consider changing thermostat while you have the system empty. It's a 5 min extra and torque is 80 INCH lbs. 10mm nuts.
7. I lost what appears to be an ounce at best of tranny fluid. Remember if you do need to add some, after 2004 models there is no dipstick or fill plug on the engine bay. Fill plug is actually below truck under exhaust at toward rear of transmission. There are other write ups on this so I defer to those.
8. Don't plan on reusing coolant. You'll get debris from the engine bay and a few drops of tranny fluid which will render it useless. Have an empty container on hand. In all I got about 1.25 gallons out. I'm sure there is more in the system.
9. Clean up or replace radiator mounting hardware. Most of it is rusted or corroded. I got some 1/4 washers and 8mm x 1.25 nuts. The front plates are specialized and only Toyota has them. I cleaned them with a wire wheel and put por15 on them. Backing plates of some of them are glued to the rubber and will make you frustrated.
10. Take all hardware and rad cap off your old one, new ones often don't come with it.
1.Start drain first, it takes a while
2.Use bent nose pliers for hose clamps, makes access much easier on the driver side
3. I couldn't get the lower transmission hose off, so I unscrewed the hardware from the radiator, 15/16 open wrench
4. Use a flex head ratchet and a 13 mm wrench to get the bolts off the radiator. This is especially helpful on the lower bolts. No need to remove bumper, but straight ratchet doesn't work well
5. Much more fluid comes out of the radiator when it is tilted. You can do this in place or when it's out.
6. Consider changing thermostat while you have the system empty. It's a 5 min extra and torque is 80 INCH lbs. 10mm nuts.
7. I lost what appears to be an ounce at best of tranny fluid. Remember if you do need to add some, after 2004 models there is no dipstick or fill plug on the engine bay. Fill plug is actually below truck under exhaust at toward rear of transmission. There are other write ups on this so I defer to those.
8. Don't plan on reusing coolant. You'll get debris from the engine bay and a few drops of tranny fluid which will render it useless. Have an empty container on hand. In all I got about 1.25 gallons out. I'm sure there is more in the system.
9. Clean up or replace radiator mounting hardware. Most of it is rusted or corroded. I got some 1/4 washers and 8mm x 1.25 nuts. The front plates are specialized and only Toyota has them. I cleaned them with a wire wheel and put por15 on them. Backing plates of some of them are glued to the rubber and will make you frustrated.
10. Take all hardware and rad cap off your old one, new ones often don't come with it.
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