What other hoses should I replace?

S

samsquantch

New member
Hi all,
I just got into the cooling system for a flush and new upper and lower radiator hoses and t-stat. Issue is that little weird hose off the water pump is super soft and needs replacing (these guys maybe: Oil Cooler Hoses). This is the 2nd job I've been stuck on due to additional needed parts in the past 2 weeks. Can anyone recommend any other hoses that commonly fail that I might be missing?
Thanks for your help!
 
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That's one of the main culprits. Take a look at the coolant lines that pass through the throttle body, these can also get brittle from heat and start to drip down into the valley. Other than that I think you got them covered. More likely to have coolant leak from the water pump really.
 
Which ever hoses you replace purchase new clamps for the hoses.

If you are high milage and have the time and money.

do the rear hoses at the heater core and heat valve.

The two lines as mentioned above to the throttlebody

Both oil cooler lines.

And new spring clamps all around.

When I did my rebuild I think it took around 180 at the local dealer for those hoses and clamps. I also replaced some molded vacuum lines in that cost. As well as the o-ring and gasket for the oil cooler. (I removed and flushed the oil cooler in acetone and mineral spirits.)


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I recently replaced all the coolant hoses. For a 19+ year old car it's probably a good idea to do it. They will most likely spring a leak at the worst time possible in the most horrid location. The ones that fought with me the most were the oil cooler hoses. The heater core and rear heater were a piece of cake. I highly recommend getting a set of long needle nose pliers. To do all the hoses OEM toyota, was somewhere around $205 for all oem hoses. Since oem lasted 19+ years I went with oem.
 

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Thanks guys, I am leaning toward ordering the rest of them, but will probably go with Camelback or someone. Local Toyota prices are high. Am doing all OEM with new OEM clamps.

Any reason I shouldn't finish upper/lower rad, thermostat, oil cooler hoses, then drive around with distilled water until the rest show up? I have Toyota red coolant when I'm done.

Thanks again
 
2TH4IST said:
Since oem lasted 19+ years I went with oem.
Click to expand...

Crap, that's a lot of hoses.... saaaayyyy.... you don't happen to have a list of all the part numbers you'd be willing to post, do you? Save your fellow forum members a bit of time digging?
 
samsquantch said:
Thanks guys, I am leaning toward ordering the rest of them, but will probably go with Camelback or someone. Local Toyota prices are high. Am doing all OEM with new OEM clamps.

Any reason I shouldn't finish upper/lower rad, thermostat, oil cooler hoses, then drive around with distilled water until the rest show up? I have Toyota red coolant when I'm done.

Thanks again
Click to expand...

Don't. If you are in stop and go traffic with pure water you can hit into the 200's easy. If steam starts building something will blow and it could be the radiator. Just put the old coolant back in if you're trying to save the fresh coolant, that will be much better than straight water.
 
Oh yeah, thanks. Forgot about the boiling point elevation part of it ethylene glycol.

What's up with the rear heater plumbing? Looks like the PO replaced some of the engine-side hoses, but I can't tell if my carpet is wet on the inside, passenger side. Seems like it might be now that I've been spraying water all up in the system. I guess I could pull the carpet to check.
 
My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread might have a picture of the part list I compiled. I forget now but do remember throwing away the paper I had it wrote on cleaning the garage.


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[MENTION=315156]Brian.[/MENTION]

Okay, there are a few vin splits, so this is your responsibility to double check to make sure they fit your 4runner.

Since my vin is above 200008 I used 200008 and up part #'s.

Once again double check your vin split with hose part numbers, they have up to 4 different hoses, it's not my responsibility if you order the wrong part #'s.

My 4runner is a 2000 4wd SR5 V-6 w/rear heater.

Perfectly fine to run 100% water UNLESS YOU ARE IN FREEZING WEATHER!!!!!!!!!!! Antifreeze is exactly that, prevents the coolant from freezing (along with some rust preventative), does ZERO to help cool the engine, its actually bad to run to high of a concentrate of coolant vs water. I ran 100% distilled water and rad flush for 3 weeks in my 4runner. I also only run distilled water in my miata with water wetter. My 4runner is running 50/50 and water wetter as it will see winter weather.

Look at corresponding pics to match up the hose locations.

1. 87245-35770
2. 87245-35451
3. 87245-35461
4. 87245-35700
5. 87245-35690
6. 87245-35680
7. 87245-35710
8. 87245-35670
9. 87245-3D090
10. 15778-62030
11. 15777-62020
12. 16261-62060
13. 99556-10300
14. 16571-62070
15. 16572-62090
 

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Sorry to jump in, but I'm about to replace my steel hoses that run to the rear heater under the car, and I'm wondering if I can replace those without draining all the coolant? The previous owner ran heater hose to bypass those lines, so I'm hoping I can run the new steel lines and just quickly move the connections without draining coolant and hopefully not losing any or much at all.
 
Ser1clymb said:
Sorry to jump in, but I'm about to replace my steel hoses that run to the rear heater under the car, and I'm wondering if I can replace those without draining all the coolant? The previous owner ran heater hose to bypass those lines, so I'm hoping I can run the new steel lines and just quickly move the connections without draining coolant and hopefully not losing any or much at all.
Click to expand...

You can try to be quick about connecting new hoses, but you will need to bleed the air out of the cooling system due to new hoses and rear heater core having air in them.
 
Hoses

2TH4IST said:
I recently replaced all the coolant hoses. For a 19+ year old car it's probably a good idea to do it. They will most likely spring a leak at the worst time possible in the most horrid location. The ones that fought with me the most were the oil cooler hoses. The heater core and rear heater were a piece of cake. I highly recommend getting a set of long needle nose pliers. To do all the hoses OEM toyota, was somewhere around $205 for all oem hoses. Since oem lasted 19+ years I went with oem.
Click to expand...

Any chance you have the part numbers? I just did the upper and lower radiator and oil cooler hoses. But using the online parts catalogs ( Camelback ) is very challenging to find all the hoses....
 
With 225k miles on my 1999 is it recommended to swap the hoses out? My mechanic said nothing needs to be done yet except my UCA is looking like it needs replacing, but he never mentioned hoses and such.
Thanks ahead of time
 
Of the things that have left me stranded over my years of driving old cars (non-Toyota), coolant leaks are #1. That's been water pump failure and hose failure. After that, it is brake hose failure. Luckily no flats. Keeping good hoses is cheap insurance. Old hoses either get softened and thin with age, which causes bulging, or get hard and brittle. Just inspect them and see if they appear soft/bulging or brittle. Also look for any evidence of mineral deposits/dried coolant at fittings.
 
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