broke the bolt while trying to remove the bumpstop

It was mentioned higher up in the thread, but heat really helps.

I tried everything on these bumper bolts. They ended up stripped. Drilling them out wasn't working. 2 days wasted trying to budge these damned things.

Blow torch for 10 seconds, and they popped right out.

I have to do the same for one of my skid bolts soon, the head of the bolt sheared off leaving the threaded body behind.

46GARws.jpg
 
Not sure about the 4R's LCA bushings, but some vehicles use tensioned bushings (why susp components should be tightened at ride height) and would only spring back if you tried to cycle the LCA like that.

If you disconnect the LCA from the frame and leave it connected to the spindle, it can move around a little.

Honestly 3sash3mi, you may want to just disassemble the whole thing. If you're considering any susp upgrades now is the time! :)
ha ha. i put the toytecs in 2019 and spc uca a year or two before that. may be an excuse to get some aftermarket lca :-)
 
You could try a bernzomatic torch available at most hardware stores, HD or Lowes. They don't get as hot as an oxy torch, but I've used one to loosen up stuck hardware many times. They are not very expensive and if it works - great - if not, you have a torch to play with! Really, you want to get the bolt cherry red but getting it as hot as possible is worth a shot - good luck.
 
I did the exact same thing, and it sucked. I ended up dremeling away the nut from above, and feeding a new nut with loctite in when I installed the replacement. It was hours and hours of messing with it, though - if it happened now, I'd probably decide it was a great excuse for new LCAs.
 
Managed to get the broken bump stop bolt out

First off many thanks to you all for great ideas and suggestions.

I managed to get it out today from the bottom by using compact 90 degrees drill attachment and stubby drill bits and bolt extractors. I did not have to disconnect anything.

Attaching a few photos of the job and tools I used. May be somebody who runs into this in the future will find it useful.

Here are the main things that helped

1) Compact Screw extractor set

2) Stubby drill bits

3) The compact 90 degree drill attachment

4) PB Blaster/Kroil. I let the thing soak for couple of days before i had the time to get to it.

Cheers and thanks again!
deep
 

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First off many thanks to you all for great ideas and suggestions.

I managed to get it out today from the bottom by using compact 90 degrees drill attachment and stubby drill bits and bolt extractors. I did not have to disconnect anything.

Attaching a few photos of the job and tools I used. May be somebody who runs into this in the future will find it useful.

Here are the main things that helped

1) Compact Screw extractor set

2) Stubby drill bits

3) The compact 90 degree drill attachment

4) PB Blaster/Kroil. I let the thing soak for couple of days before i had the time to get to it.

Cheers and thanks again!
deep

Nice job, glad you were able to extract it without too much difficulty !

Looks like your process made it come out with ease, dropped it right out of the bottom.
Also, correct tools for the job.

Can you link the drill?
 
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Seems like that particular drill is not available anymore. I bought this quite a few years ago. But any small pistol grip drill/driver should be just fine. In fact this particular one is a single speed drill. Probably not the best.

Here is a page I found on it. Craftsman Nextec 9-17562 Right Angle Impact Driver Review

It is an impact driver. So that helps a bit with speeding up the hole and preventing the bit jumping around since it is impossible to use a centering punch on the bolt at that angle, which I tried. But if the sheared face is almost flat like mine was, it is probably not a big deal.
 
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