broke the bolt while trying to remove the bumpstop
- Thread starter 3sash3mi
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flyrv9
New member
Most successful broken bolt removals work best when heat is applied, along with some penetrating fluid like Kroil; and a couple strikes (with something) to help loosen things up a bit. Then there is the easy out method which I haven't had much luck with. If you break off the easy out - you're kind of screwed.
Another method I've seen is to weld a nut on the broken bolt. I haven't tried this. If there is enough thread you can lock two nuts together and then turn out the inside one to remove the bolt.
Another method I've seen is to weld a nut on the broken bolt. I haven't tried this. If there is enough thread you can lock two nuts together and then turn out the inside one to remove the bolt.
MStudt
official vendor
Were you able to remove the bumpstop? That's the most important question.
If so, use heat. When this happens to me I always grab MAP gas, and a candle. Heat the broken bolt, and where it threads into. Once heated you can press the candle against the threads where it enters the nut, and the heat will draw the wax in. Heat alone is usually enough to break the rust loose, but just in case it doesn't the wax will. Then you should be able to remove the bolt with channel locks.
Mike
If so, use heat. When this happens to me I always grab MAP gas, and a candle. Heat the broken bolt, and where it threads into. Once heated you can press the candle against the threads where it enters the nut, and the heat will draw the wax in. Heat alone is usually enough to break the rust loose, but just in case it doesn't the wax will. Then you should be able to remove the bolt with channel locks.
Mike
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
This has been the most effective solution in all my decades of working on cars :becky:
:dammit:
Thanks for all the suggestion. The problem with the front bump stop bolt is that the other side of the bolt is not easily accessible. The bump stop basically snapped off right at the joint of the bolt and the bump stop itself.
The access into the broken bolt from the broken side is also obscured by the LCA. The only option I see is dropping the LCA and somehow drilling the bolt out from bottom. Given the tight space for the work on regular jack stands I may need professional help. I did soak the thing with PB blaster before I started to turn the bump stop.
I am somewhat surprised to see it snap off like this on a 6 yr old car. May be I should have used kroil or something
The access into the broken bolt from the broken side is also obscured by the LCA. The only option I see is dropping the LCA and somehow drilling the bolt out from bottom. Given the tight space for the work on regular jack stands I may need professional help. I did soak the thing with PB blaster before I started to turn the bump stop.
I am somewhat surprised to see it snap off like this on a 6 yr old car. May be I should have used kroil or something
flyrv9
New member
I'd guess that area sees a lot of moisture and corrosion is probably pretty bad. Perhaps a better grade of bolt, or one made of stainless steel would work better; along with anti-seize on the threads. Another option I just remembered is to drill out the bolt with a bit slightly undersized and centered. Then hopefully you can chase the remaining threads with the proper sized tap. However, this might be more trouble and expense (unless you have all the items, tools, etc.) than taking it somewhere to have it removed.
was it for the same bolt? - there is no easy access to this bolt from top as far as i can see. there is a hole on the metal that covers the area from top. But does not seem to be something that i can reach the stuck bolt through? The access needs to be from the bottom seems to me. Would love to know. Thanks
dezertbomber
New member
I was thinking this just before reading your realization. Kudos to you for the honesty! I did my 2010's and they came right out, so would've been surprised if a NorCal truck that was half the age already froze up that bad.
I'm thinking your best course of action is to drop the LCA and drill. Easiest way to achieve that may be to lift the front as high as you can, support under the front frame rail with a jack stand, then use a jack to support the LCA, unbolt the LCA from the frame mounts, then lower slowly with the jack until you have some clearance.
Things to watch for when doing so: brake & abs line tension! remove the bolts that clip the brake & abs line to the susp components, UCA & spindle angle (with a static droop the balljoint binding is prob ok), outer tie rod may need to be removed if limits droop too much.
Could also loosen the three front strut nuts to give you a little more droop as well.
Without a complete disassembly of the front susp I think the above is your best bet.
Good luck! Let us know what you ultimately have to do to get this out.
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Lot's of ways to remove the remaining bolt, none of which may be easy.
If the opposite side came out fairly easily, then it's not seized up, only extra tension from tightening it the wrong way. Start out with some heat and a center punch to shock / loosen it up. There really shouldn't be much tension on the treads anymore since the 'bolt head' is broken off, but we want to let it relax as much as it can. Center punch as best on center two or three times.
Now you've got a couple of options. If you can get a punch near the edge of the broken bolt without damaging the internal threads and strike it to rotate it free. Might come out slowly, ~1/16 of a turn at a time. Kind of like a spanner pin wrench, you're making a small dimple near an edge and trying to turn it.
If you have a welder or friend with a welder, can you tack a bar onto it?
Can you "JB Weld" onto it?
For not so easy out screw extraction, you'll probably need better access unless you have a 90 degree drill head that is fairly compact. Maybe a dremel or some other small power tool can get in there without needing to drop the LCA. Depending upon how submerged the broken bolt is, a self centering drill bit guide may be helpful. Also, left hand drill bits should be advantageous here but are not required (some kits they are built in / included).
Good luck, Google is your friend... you're not the first and won't be the last... let us know the outcome.
dezertbomber
New member
Not sure about the 4R's LCA bushings, but some vehicles use tensioned bushings (why susp components should be tightened at ride height) and would only spring back if you tried to cycle the LCA like that.
If you disconnect the LCA from the frame and leave it connected to the spindle, it can move around a little.
Honestly 3sash3mi, you may want to just disassemble the whole thing. If you're considering any susp upgrades now is the time!
I used the hole at the top. Penetrating oil > drill bit to level > center punch > bolt extractor
