How challenging to replace front CV axles?

R

rwh963

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'06 with 230k miles. front axles have been replaced before (left at 172k, right at 199k, with aftermarket). been told i need them both changed out. need to look into the cost of toyota new and reman. I can get them from NAPA with lifetime warranty for about $100 each. don't know if there would be other material costs with this job.

so, is the labor best left to a shop (figure $150 per side)?
 
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rwh963 said:
'06 with 230k miles. front axles have been replaced before (left at 172k, right at 199k, with aftermarket). been told i need them both changed out. need to look into the cost of toyota new and reman. I can get them from NAPA with lifetime warranty for about $100 each. don't know if there would be other material costs with this job.

so, is the labor best left to a shop (figure $150 per side)?
Click to expand...

I replaced one of mine with a NAPA axle. No issues with the part but I dinged the diff seal while wrangling the old axle out and had to replace it. The seal didn't quite seat completely and leaked, so I had a shop replace it.

An observation about DIYing this - I found it very challenging to do at the height to which you can safely raise your truck at home. A shop-style lift would make the job much easier if you're close to a place that rents out bays for DIY repairs.

If you decide to try it, 1A Auto has many 4th Gen how-to videos and this is no exception.

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It's been a few years since I did mine but I don't recall it being hard. I think one side was tight to pop out. I really liked how easy it was to disconnect the lower control arms. I think the sway bar also needed to be removed. May as well replace the axle seals while in there because it'll be annoying if one leaks. I would only go OEM on those seals as I've had issues with aftermarket ones leaking.
 
It’s not hard. Kinda easy, actually

removing: have someone help hold the out end up/level. If it’s hanging a little, that weight wants to make it come out ant a downward direction. You are trying to pop the C clip out of it's spot in the diff. Use a brass drift on the flat edges machined into the inner housing. That’s the service manual method. Some people pry it out. If using a drift, hold outward pressure and hit using small, rapid hits. This way, you won’t lose your progress. If you take big hits, the metal on metal inside the diff will cause the CV to kind of bounce back in, so you’ll be fighting yourself. You should be able to free the C clip and have the rest of the inner shaft remain in the diff, this way you can hold on to the inner housing as you remove it and it won’t fall on you, you’ll probably be working underneath it.

Installing: Orient the C clip with the opening down. If you look at it it’s an oblong shape. If it’s oriented opening up, gravity will pull the clip down and will create an obstruction you’ll fight against. Clip opening down and it presents the lowest possible profile. Insert the axle end, hold the shaft and tap it in, keeping inward pressure so it won’t want to bounce out. There’s enough flex in the boot to allow you to create space to “hammer” it in with moderate taps/hits. Yes, you are hitting with the tripod bearings, but it’s really very little force. It’s not going to damage anything.

Remember you should change the axle seals. Pay attention to how far in they are sitting, so you can install the new ones in the right spot.

This video is pretty good. I think they pry out the axle in this case. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHY1rpRD11g
 
A lot of good advice in here. I did mine myself about 2 years ago. They are not that hard. The hardest part, in my opinion, is popping the CV axle out of the differential.

The axles on my truck were not original. I'm pretty sure they were from NAPA from what I could tell. I ended up replacing them with another set from NAPA. I got the ones with the so called "heavy duty" boots. The lifetime warranty was a plus.

Something to think about. The CV axles will last a long time even with torn boots. I drove with mine torn for around 25k miles. Granted it was only for about a year and half since I was doing a lot of road trips.

To further add to that point, the ones I replaced them with, started to tear about 15k miles after I installed them. I have put on another 18k miles and I still have not replaced them. If I hear any noises, I'll go ahead and replace them under warranty. I don't want to replace them just so that the boots can tear again.


Here is the thread from when I did mine.
"CV Joints boots cracked, replace axle now or wait?"


I probably would replace the seals on the differential when you change them. I didn't and I ended having a leak on one side. Here is a thread for the leaking seal and how I replaced it.
"CV Axels replaced before, front diff seal leaking?"
 
Be sure to watch the Timmy The Toolman videos on YouTube! He offers up the most thorough videos on the process. You'll want to replace inside and outside seals, too, and you may want to buy the specialty tool output shaft seal driver from Wit's End for seating the seals.
 
Just replaced my driver side CV again.

If you’re lifted and go wheeling, do NOT get Napa CV axles. It lasted 4k miles and had to change them on a long distance wheeling trip. 5th gen remans are 100 +70 or 80 for core charge, but they’ve been out of stock for months. I’ve been waiting 6 months on backorder.

If you plan on changing the axle seal, make sure you have a PVC coupler or something that matches the diameter of the outer ring of the seal. They sell a 70 dollar axle seal press made for Toyotas on some site witsend or something- but I just used PVC. It’s a pain in the ass getting it fully flush without hammering it too much on one side. If you don’t want to deal with that, just pay a shop. Otherwise the seal will leak and you’ll have to take out the axle again.
 
zguy1 said:
Something to think about. The CV axles will last a long time even with torn boots. I drove with mine torn for around 25k miles. Granted it was only for about a year and half since I was doing a lot of road trips.

To further add to that point, the ones I replaced them with, started to tear about 15k miles after I installed them. I have put on another 18k miles and I still have not replaced them. If I hear any noises, I'll go ahead and replace them under warranty. I don't want to replace them just so that the boots can tear again.
Click to expand...

I have a tear in one of mine and they are only 3 or 4 years old. I'm leaving it for now. Just not worth the effort replacing the boot when the whole unit is only a bit more for aftermarket rebuilt. I did think about wiring it shut but too cold right now.
 
omg! called my dealer in NH, inquiring about new and reman cv axles. hard to believe, but going through the dealer online discount order site resulted in each axle costing $97!! and that's in tax free NH. cheaper than the cheapy aftermarket.

he said they are toyota certified product, carry same as new warranty, and require core return. he did say that due to supply issues, there is a backlog. i will probably just order now for a future need.

Remanufactured Shaft Assembly Front - Toyota (43430-60061-84)
 
rwh963 said:
omg! called my dealer in NH, inquiring about new and reman cv axles. hard to believe, but going through the dealer online discount order site resulted in each axle costing $97!! and that's in tax free NH. cheaper than the cheapy aftermarket.

he said they are toyota certified product, carry same as new warranty, and require core return. he did say that due to supply issues, there is a backlog. i will probably just order now for a future need.

Remanufactured Shaft Assembly Front - Toyota (43430-60061-84)
Click to expand...

Wow, yes...just checked the online site for my local dealer and it's $104.35 shipped. Makes me want to buy an axle I don't need right now! LOL
 
I've had an axle on order for 3 months and they said it could be another 3 months or more.
So I'm going to do a reboot for now and cancel my order, or just keep it as a spare. OEM boots made it 260K and the passenger side is still going.
 
Last edited:
Tyla_T4R said:
Just replaced my driver side CV again.

If you’re lifted and go wheeling, do NOT get Napa CV axles. It lasted 4k miles and had to change them on a long distance wheeling trip. 5th gen remans are 100 +70 or 80 for core charge, but they’ve been out of stock for months. I’ve been waiting 6 months on backorder.

If you plan on changing the axle seal, make sure you have a PVC coupler or something that matches the diameter of the outer ring of the seal. They sell a 70 dollar axle seal press made for Toyotas on some site witsend or something- but I just used PVC. It’s a pain in the ass getting it fully flush without hammering it too much on one side. If you don’t want to deal with that, just pay a shop. Otherwise the seal will leak and you’ll have to take out the axle again.
Click to expand...

Which PN did you use? There's 2 of them - regular and heavy duty.

The Napa HD one is the same as the Cardone 66-5235HD that you can get from Rock Auto (and maybe your local parts store) and has a thermoplastic boot. I've had no issues with the Cardone HD axles and they have a lifetime warranty.
 
rwh963 said:
omg! called my dealer in NH, inquiring about new and reman cv axles. hard to believe, but going through the dealer online discount order site resulted in each axle costing $97!! and that's in tax free NH. cheaper than the cheapy aftermarket.

he said they are toyota certified product, carry same as new warranty, and require core return. he did say that due to supply issues, there is a backlog. i will probably just order now for a future need.

Remanufactured Shaft Assembly Front - Toyota (43430-60061-84)
Click to expand...

Yep. I got OEM remann'd CV through the parts counter and with the core refund It would have been about $100. It's been a while so I don't really remember. I decided to keep my originals I was replacing and do the re-boot. So they were around $150 I think. It was pretty easy. About a year ago I swapped the originals back in that I re-booted. Just stay with Toyota parts.
 
RBLACAUSA said:
Be sure to watch the Timmy The Toolman videos on YouTube! He offers up the most thorough videos on the process. You'll want to replace inside and outside seals, too, and you may want to buy the specialty tool output shaft seal driver from Wit's End for seating the seals.
Click to expand...

Specialty tool?! I use a 2" PVC end cap and a small hammer. The knuckle seals should be replaced as well (on the inside of the steering knuckle). I cut a piece of 2x4 into a circle-ish shape to fit the inner lip of the seals. Just tap them in to place. Easy-peasy.
 
I did mine a few years ago and it wasnt too bad... would have been much easier if I wasnt doing it in my shared apartment parking garage with a neighbor's car less than 3' away right next to me. Not an ideal situation by any means.

If you offroad much at all Id definitely recommend getting OEM or remanufactured. You probably know this because you asked. But yeah, it would really not be fun to have one snap while youre out in the middle of a trail somewhere.
 
anytime someone asks "how hard is _____?" it is always relative... changing out CV axles to me is one of the most straightforward things I do on my rig (Primarily because I have them in and out so many damn times at this point..)

Condition of your rig also plays a major roll... some things that are a breeze on mine (no rust, original florida car) end up being a 3 hour bolt removal process on some norther rigs.


All in all, great advice in here... I definitely second replacing the seals.. I was lazy and left mine alone last time, quickly discovered a leak soon after, and guess what? Literally had to the job all over again 2 weeks later :scared:

Worst thing for me seems to be popping the axles/c-clips back in.. you need to make sure they are sitting on the top and not swung down and drooping, but even with that I have an axle that just doesn't want to pop in and since I'm lazy and do the work myself it becomes a crappy process of struggling to seat it properly without tearing the boots or the seals.


I'm not running the front sway bar so that for me is out of the way already, but literally the only bolts I remove when swapping axles are the 2 lower balljoint bracket bolts and the axle nut (obviously). I leave everything else in place and just manhandle (or use a floorjack) to raise the knuckle where it needs to be to get the axle out, and viola!
 
I came across a video during my research that suggested using a bit of grease on the c-clips to keep them centered on the axles (not hanging) when inserting them into the diff. They swore it made them easier to seat. I'm planning to try it when the weather warms up a little and I can reboot.
 
I did the grease, little grease, lots of grease, turned one way, then another, something about the one particular c clip would not seat. I mean after multiple attempts of trying I literally ended up having to file it down a bit to seat. Enough not to pop out, but yea.. no two repairs are the same lol .
 
ace4aday said:
I came across a video during my research that suggested using a bit of grease on the c-clips to keep them centered on the axles (not hanging) when inserting them into the diff. They swore it made them easier to seat. I'm planning to try it when the weather warms up a little and I can reboot.
Click to expand...

Grease isn't needed. It might help, but just hold the axle and orient the clip with the opening down. Yes, it's still a little oblong, but that protrusion is minimized (clip opening up causes gravity to pull the clip down and presents a greater obstacle for allowing it to seat in the correct location). I feel like the key to installing is controlled inward pressure. It's really easy if you tap it in with the axle itself. Yes, you're tapping it with the tripod bearings, but it's really not much impact. Very little, actually.

Holding the inward pressure allows you to maintain your progress. Striking with a hammer and drift causes to much shock and there's a rebound action that causes you to loose your progress. If you are striking and not supporting the outer joint, that weight, due to gravity, is working against you and wanting to pull the axle back out.
 
if anyone has troubling taking them out, i can confirm that 2" axle forks from amazon worked great. spent about an hr trying to get them out various pry bars and hammering a chisel and my hand. so found the axle forks got here in a day and a couple hammer taps later, boom she popped out.
 
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