VIP RS3000-there is not a thread like this one...

[Next4runner]

I have searched, for days, about THIS. I have the RS VIP3000 installed on my 1997 TR4 Limited. I got the truck about a two weeks ago with no key fobs. Thus began my quest to understand the intricacies of the VIP3000.

I ordered aftermarket fobs, FFC BAB237131-022, and proceeded to hit the green button under the drivers seat to program everything. No good.

The indicator light (on your dash or in the center console--mine's in the center console) for the system is not blinking and has not been since I bought the truck. I pulled the dash to check the wiring, all seems intact, including the inline fuse.

I want to use my voltmeter to check to see if the ECU is getting power, but can't find a decent wiring diagram to save my life. If you know where I can find one for the 3000, not the 3200 please let me know. Or if the wiring is the same for both, let me know and I will go to town with the 3200 wiring list I found.

How should I go about troubleshooting this? The only non-factory items in the truck seem to be radio and the K&N air filter. I'm the third owner and this thing was dealer maintained... even the belts are toyota brand.

Any and all advice is welcome. Thanks!

 

[Next4runner]

Nobody? Bump for the morning crowd.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Do I have this right?

You bought a truck. Then realized it has a viper alarm but no key fobs of any kind, then bought Toyota key fobs, then couldn't get them to work.

Question: are you sure the viper kit uses the Toyota key Fobs; don't they have custom clickers?

Question: did you do an advanced search using the method mentioned in MY search thread (see my SIG)?

2cents ..... I feel sorry for everyone where the previous owner installed an aftermarket alarm or a remove start. Those devices USUALLY cause a lot of electrical problems.

I suggest:
* you cut the aftermarket alarm out if you can
* Try to get the Toyota key fob to activate the door locks at least
* Buy a Truck-Club
* Setup a fuel cutoff kill switch somewhere in your truck

 

[Next4runner]

Do I have this right?

You bought a truck. Then realized it has a viper alarm but no key fobs of any kind, then bought Toyota key fobs, then couldn't get them to work.

Question: are you sure the viper kit uses the Toyota key Fobs; don't they have custom clickers?

Question: did you do an advanced search using the method mentioned in MY search thread (see my SIG)?

2cents ..... I feel sorry for everyone where the previous owner installed an aftermarket alarm or a remove start. Those devices USUALLY cause a lot of electrical problems.

I suggest:
* you cut the aftermarket alarm out if you can
* Try to get the Toyota key fob to activate the door locks at least
* Buy a Truck-Club
* Setup a fuel cutoff kill switch somewhere in your truck

Brian, Thanks for the reply. The Toyota installed alarms on 3rd gens are called VIP RS3000 alarms--these use a toyota fob (black or gray depending on year and FCC frequency) and were typically installed under the drivers seat at either the port or by the dealers. They are not affiliated with Viper.

I am hoping that I can find a wiring diagram and discover if the issue is with the alarm ECU, or simply that someone cut the power to the alarm. Right now The LED indicator light is not blinking, and I am trying to ascertain which wires (30-40 of them running to the ECU) carry the 12V to the alarm.

[EDIT] Your search link may yield some fruit. I will certainly post if I find anything of use. Thanks.

 

[KSWAY]

Check this out....http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/113781-toyo-vip-rs3000-security-system-trouble.html

 

[Next4runner]

Check this out....http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/113781-toyo-vip-rs3000-security-system-trouble.html

Already referenced that one, but thanks. I went ahead and ordered a new ECU for the alarm. It was only $32 on Ebay. I will see if that makes a difference and report back in a few days. If anyone finds a wiring diagram in the mean time I would love to see one.

This is the best I can find as of now, but it doesn't cover all that runs to the ECU.

2 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE (+) and WHITE/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER GREEN/BLACK (+) or BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE YELLOW/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) RED/WHITE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) GREEN (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS TO REAR OF VEHICLE
POWER LOCK BROWN/WHITE (Negative (-)) @ PLUG BELOW FUSEBOX, See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK GREEN/YELLOW and BLUE/YELLOW (Negative (-)) Use both, See NOTE *2 @ PLUG BELOW FUSEBOX, See NOTE *1
DOOR TRIGGER LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) See NOTE *4
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #R30-H Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN GREEN/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
TACH BLACK (-) @ DIAGNOSTIC PLUG, See NOTE *3
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A
BRAKE GREEN/WHITE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS with KEYSENSE wire IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS



I am really curious which wire carries the 12v power. I may spend my Saturday playing with the spaghetti of wires and trying to find out what's up. If I do, I will document it as best I can.

Thanks,
B

 

[mightybrick]

Already referenced that one, but thanks. I went ahead and ordered a new ECU for the alarm. It was only $32 on Ebay. I will see if that makes a difference and report back in a few days. If anyone finds a wiring diagram in the mean time I would love to see one.

This is the best I can find as of now, but it doesn't cover all that runs to the ECU.

2 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE (+) and WHITE/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER GREEN/BLACK (+) or BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLUE/RED (+) IGNITON SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE YELLOW/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) RED/WHITE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) GREEN (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS TO REAR OF VEHICLE
POWER LOCK BROWN/WHITE (Negative (-)) @ PLUG BELOW FUSEBOX, See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK GREEN/YELLOW and BLUE/YELLOW (Negative (-)) Use both, See NOTE *2 @ PLUG BELOW FUSEBOX, See NOTE *1
DOOR TRIGGER LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) See NOTE *4
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #R30-H Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN GREEN/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
TACH BLACK (-) @ DIAGNOSTIC PLUG, See NOTE *3
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A
BRAKE GREEN/WHITE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS with KEYSENSE wire IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS



I am really curious which wire carries the 12v power. I may spend my Saturday playing with the spaghetti of wires and trying to find out what's up. If I do, I will document it as best I can.

Thanks,
B

I'm just curious if you were able to fix this, or what info you found.
I'm in the same situation. 97 4Runner purchased 3 weeks ago, no keyless fob. I purchased used fob (FFC BAB237131-022), it won't program, light on center won't light up. Today, randomly, the alarm went off, marker lights on, horn blazing. The alarm wouldn't turn off with the ignition switch, so I pulled the fuse for the horn to stop the noise. I finally unplugged the box under the seat which turned it off. I thought maybe, Hey, maybe the keyless will work now! But no dice. Just looking for more info now, and came across this thread.

 

[djskorch]

Just as a note and im not sure if the 5vz ecu is the same but on all 3 toyota mr2 ecus i have messed with (5sfe, 3sge & 3sgte) if you remove the cover plate, all the pins are labeled on the circuit board.

 

[Next4runner]

I'm just curious if you were able to fix this, or what info you found.
I'm in the same situation. 97 4Runner purchased 3 weeks ago, no keyless fob. I purchased used fob (FFC BAB237131-022), it won't program, light on center won't light up. Today, randomly, the alarm went off, marker lights on, horn blazing. The alarm wouldn't turn off with the ignition switch, so I pulled the fuse for the horn to stop the noise. I finally unplugged the box under the seat which turned it off. I thought maybe, Hey, maybe the keyless will work now! But no dice. Just looking for more info now, and came across this thread.

Hey MightyBrick,

I finally bought a new ECU with the same numbers (out of a Camry, I think) on ebay for about $30-$40 bucks. I combined that with a no-name brand remote and it's been good ever since. I was killing myself chasing wires and volts and thought that the ECU price was worth my time and hassle. It proved that the old one was fried and wires were good.

I recommend buying a new ecu, plugging it in, and going through the program process. If you have the same issues then you can start chasing wires and sell the extra ECU once you get it running.
All the best!

 

[mightybrick]

Hey MightyBrick,

I finally bought a new ECU with the same numbers (out of a Camry, I think) on ebay for about $30-$40 bucks. I combined that with a no-name brand remote and it's been good ever since. I was killing myself chasing wires and volts and thought that the ECU price was worth my time and hassle. It proved that the old one was fried and wires were good.

I recommend buying a new ecu, plugging it in, and going through the program process. If you have the same issues then you can start chasing wires and sell the extra ECU once you get it running.
All the best!

Thanks! I'll give that a shot.

 

[Zottyzot]

Hey MightyBrick,

I finally bought a new ECU with the same numbers (out of a Camry, I think) on ebay for about $30-$40 bucks. I combined that with a no-name brand remote and it's been good ever since. I was killing myself chasing wires and volts and thought that the ECU price was worth my time and hassle. It proved that the old one was fried and wires were good.

What procedure did you follow to program the remote?

 

[stickywicket]

Keyless Remote Success (mostly)...

I just thought I'd post my own experience with the ol' RS3000. Maybe it will help some others trying to determine whether or not they potentially have a keyless system installed.

I have a 1997 T4R that I purchased 7 years ago. It came with no keyless remotes, but I had always noticed the security light in the console area right by the back window button. Just recently, after reading various threads on the forums, I decided to call up the local Toyota dealership and had them look up my VIN. Their answer was "most likely no dealer keyless system was installed". I then called up the dealership I originally purchased the vehicle from. They, too, said "it does not appear a keyless remote system was installed", even after I mentioned the RS3000 box under my driver's seat and the piezo chirper in the engine bay.

After pushing the little green button on the side of the RS3000 unit and seeing the security light turn on, I figured to go ahead and try out a remote (two button black), which I ordered from replacemyremote.com.

When I got the remote, I tried pairing it and, though it did seem to cause something to happen with the lights and horn briefly, the vehicle wouldn't respond to any subsequent button presses. I decided to "clear all remotes" from the ECU and then proceeded to redo the pairing--HUZZAH! Now I had a two button remote that could unlock and lock all doors, but only with the top button.

Here's where it gets a little weird (and might be useful to others)...

My remote has two buttons, but the bottom button seems to serve no purpose. I contacted the company I purchased the remote from about this and they suggested I swap it out for a replacement. As I was about to mail the package, I noticed the address was about 30 minutes away, so after emailing with them, I decided to drive down in person. Turns out, this was a good idea. They gave me a second remote to try, but I was unable to get any response from my 4Runner with it. As I waited for them to get me a third remote to try, I was googling about the RS3000 system and ran across a site that suggested only the top button on the remote is supposed to work. The third remote they gave failed to elicit any response from my 4Runner as well. They offered a refund, but I decided I was happy just to have a working remote, so they gave me the original back and it paired with no problem.

So now I have a remote. Apparently it sets a alarm that I never knew I had. When your vehicle is locked via the remote, it must be unlocked via the remote or else the alarm will go off. I'd rather just turn the whole alarm function off, but the Valet mode setting does not seem to hold for very long (my wife learned this early one morning). I need to dig up an old thread where someone says he just cut the wires that cause the alarm to trigger and make that modification. (EDIT: found it) Additional EDIT: Made this wire-cut modification and had no luck. Alarm will still go off if the 4Runner is locked with the remote and unlocked with the key. Also, as mentioned in subsequent posts by others, my chirper goes through strange periods of sounding normal, not sounding at all, sounding like it's dying, etc. Also, the 4Runner does not always respond to the button press. Sometimes it takes a few mashes before anything happens.

The moral of the story is that regardless of what the dealership says, and even if a remote doesn't seem to work for you initially, you might still have keyless remote potential. If the components are there (chiefly, the RS3000), you should be set. And if one remote doesn't work, another might.

 

[Pedrojr80]

In my experience with the rs3000 was that i coulnt get the doors to work and i did the program intructions to set up the new key fob and nothing happend it would go to the red light on the center consul to blink and that was it. My problem was on the harness that connect to the power doors they were unplug im talking about the blue connectors that connect to the door switch and as soon as i plug those in the control starter to work normally.

 

[duggmann]

Sticky- here's a link that has a link I found for the RS3000 manual that details the programming use of the second button:
4Runners.org - How to Reprogram a RS3000 Remote
I just bought a 98 4Runner with an RS3000 under the seat. First fob from ebay doesn't work; I'm on the search for the right one. I'm totally confused...black or gray? Most say black, but I see posts from people who say theirs is gray and works?

 

[duggmann]

Sticky- here's a link that has a link I found for the RS3000 manual that details the programming use of the second button:
4Runners.org - How to Reprogram a RS3000 Remote
I just bought a 98 4Runner with an RS3000 under the seat. First fob from ebay doesn't work; I'm on the search for the right one. I'm totally confused...black or gray? Most say black, but I see posts from people who say theirs is gray and works?

 

[dgoll75]

While this POS factory alarm is a subject again, has anyone had issues with their piezo acting weird? Since I have owned it I have had a funky issue. It beeps perfect sometimes when arming/disarming, sometimes not at all, sometimes very faint, and sometimes it sounds like I have a dead battery and the beep kinda pulses strangely. The rest of the system seems to work properly. Also, I have dual batteries so plenty of power. I have turned off the beep because of the annoyance but really would prefer to have it on. Any suggestions?

 

[kolelt]

This might help people

RS3000 Toyota Vehicle Intrusion Protection

 

[wemslie97]

According to the RS 3000 manual set second button as for second 4Runner. Apparently so you can work the remote door locks and security system of two runners (or any two Toyotas with the same rs.3000 system installed) with one remote.

 

[DMo007]

I've got a couple questions.

My remote got wet, and now it doesn't work. I intend on buying a couple new ones sometime and programming them, but until then, what would happen if I just get in there and unplug the VIP's ECU? I just wasn't sure if those harnesses had to be plugged in for the vehicle to start, or if I'd just lose functionality of my power windows, or if it would function normally as if it never had an alarm in the first place.

I disarmed the active alarm with the key as the manual instructed, unlocked the door, the alarm started going off, then switched the ignition ON-ACC-ON, and the alarm shut off. But when I shut the door and don't lock them, the passive arming still activates, which wouldn't be a big deal if the alarm didn't go off if you don't start it or shut the door in 15 seconds. According to the manual, the only way to shut off the passive arm function is to use the remote, which I don't have at the moment.

Is there a dedicated fuse for just the alarm or is it inline on a fuse with other things?

 

[Furlow03]

Is this the right box?

I know everything I have read says that the ecu is under the drivers seat but is there anywhere else it might have been put? I have been trying to find the one in my ‘97 4Runner but don’t know if what I found is the right thing? Under the drivers seat is completely flat and the black box I found doesn’t look like it has a green button on it? Can someone show me a picture of the one I am looking for? Thanks!