Dome Fuse- end of my rope

waylon3 · Aug 30, 2014

Hi. I have a 99 4Runner. One day, it wouldn't start. I jumped it, and it still wouldn't start. I found the ~100a fusible link blown, so I carefully replaced it. Great, it starts!

Now, my "DOME" fuse (15amps) under the hood is blowing constantly. This is only after the fusible link replacement. I have gone through the car with a fine tooth comb looking for ground issues and bare wires on the fuse circuit.

This "dome" fuse failure *after* fusible link replacement shows up five more times in the same manner on the internet, but there is no solution.

Just looking for insight and new ideas.

Thanks.

TheDurk · Aug 30, 2014

First, remove the DOME fuse and connect a test light between the blades of the fuse socket. It should glow reasonably bright. Your mission now is to make it go out, or become very dim. This saves you burning up a boxful of fuses as you try everything.

Do these things (you can stop and report back if/when the light goes out):

1. Unplug radio/stereo HU from factory harness.
2. Unplug clock.
3. Unbolt the fuse panel be driver's knee so you can access plugs on back. Unplug the 1E plug on left side, second one down from top. See p.24 of attachment for plug location. Don't worry, '99 looks the same as the '02 I posted, I checked my paper '99 EWD. (I'm betting a nickel on this one.)
4. Unplug ciggarette lighter socket (just the one on top, not the aux. outlets.

If light is still on, you need to look for something aftermarket on the DOME fuse--amp, alarm, something, because you have opened all the factory loads on a '99 (unless you have DRL's, which you shouldn't.) Post back your results, and we can go from there.

Relax, we'll find it.

IBallEngineer · Aug 31, 2014

TheDurk said:
Don't worry, '99 looks the same as the '02 I posted, I checked my paper '99 EWD. (I'm betting a nickel on this one.)

Relax, we'll find it.

Wow, you are a real risk taker!

opcorn:

waylon3 · Sep 5, 2014

Durk-

Looks like my meter shows that our ground fault disappears when I unplug the 1E plug from the back of the kick panel fuse box. Now what?

Thanks again!

IBallEngineer · Sep 5, 2014

Not sure where [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] was leading you disconnecting that connector. It kills power to all parts of that circuit so of course the light would go out, never mind that doesn't make sense to anyone except me.

I think he'll have you plug it back in and pull 1F and/or 1A. That would further isolate the short to ground. I'm voting for 1F, but I will defer on this one unless I actually start paying attention.

TheDurk · Sep 5, 2014

waylon3 said:
Durk-

Looks like my meter shows that our ground fault disappears when I unplug the 1E plug from the back of the kick panel fuse box. Now what?

Thanks again!

1. Somebody owes me a nickel.

2, reconnect 1E, Disconnect 1F.

If 1F cures fault:

a)Reconnect 1F and disconnect 3C in Center J/B by steering tube (see page 24 of same attachment.

b)if not there, reconnect 3C and then I'm afraid you need to get to back of gauge panel and pull the BLUE plug (C28)

If 1F does not cure fault:

3. Reconnect 1F and disconnect 1A.

If none of these eliminate the fault, problem lies in the Driver Side. junction box itself. There is a short to ground between 1E, 1F, and 1A. I've never pulled one so I don't know if there is any chance of repair, if you can even find the fault, or if you need to find a replacement panel. I can help find a used one if you need it.

If fault is cured by pulling 3C, there is more work to do.

We're getting there!

Just please confirm to me there is no aftermarket alarm/remote start/radio/radar/whatever tapped into this circuit. I'd hate to be wasting my time tracing the factory circuits if there is something else at fault we could have checked early on. If you don't know, that's fine, we'll get there eventually.

TheDurk · Sep 5, 2014

IBallEngineer said:
Not sure where [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] was leading you disconnecting that connector. It kills power to all parts of that circuit so of course the light would go out, never mind that doesn't make sense to anyone except me.

I think he'll have you plug it back in and pull 1F and/or 1A. That would further isolate the short to ground. I'm voting for 1F, but I will defer on this one unless I actually start paying attention.

Yep, gonna do both 1F and 1A. I did 1E just to rule out aftermarket add-on before the relay panel and be sure our friend is able to record a fault or absence thereof. Now I'm confident he's doing it right. I hate wild goose chases. I suspect we end up at 3C on Center J/B, but it could be the Driver Side panel itself or in the Combination Meter (gauge panel). Also, if it turns out to be the panel, having pulled 1E I know it's in the panel and not before. I thought it was a good idea.

IBallEngineer · Sep 5, 2014

TheDurk said:
Just to rule out aftermarket add-on before the relay panel. I hate wild goose chases. I suspect we end up at 3C on Center J/B.

I think it was Mr. Mustard, in the kitchen. But I hope you are right, my gut says it's either in the cluster or the lower left junction block. Way too many ground circuits in there, but if the door light is NOT on, then you could be right. I'll cross my fingers for the OP.

PS your nickel is almost ready, my wood lathe is warming up!

:sleepy:

TheDurk · Sep 5, 2014

IBallEngineer said:
I think it was Mr. Mustard, in the kitchen. But I hope you are right, my gut says it's either in the cluster or the lower left junction block. Way too many ground circuits in there, but if the door light is NOT on, then you could be right. I'll cross my fingers for the OP.

PS your nickel is almost ready, my wood lathe is warming up!

:sleepy:

Yeah, I see what you're saying. I didn't realize the whole dome light switching function was in the Combination meter. If the fault is in there, he could just cut that feed wire--he'd still have the manual dome light switches working, just no door switches. Everything else on the DOME circuit would work. Let's hope it's not in there.

WillyWonky · Sep 30, 2018

I have the exact same problem with my '96 and I'm really grateful for your guys's insight! I followed Durks directions: pulling 1f eliminated the fault, plugged f1 back in and then pulling 3C did as well. I do have an aftermarket stereo which I unplugged yet my test light in Dome fuse remained lit. Can you help me on what I should do next? Thank you so much!

Redmosquito83 · Jun 30, 2020

I solved the 15amp fuse blow problem

So, yes.... after 5 months I could resolve this annoying problem. :redbrick:

My main mistake was a wrong cross battery jump cable, after that this 15amp blue fuse didn't stop blowing.

So, it's took me time and some fuses, but IN MY CASE the short was on the ANTENNA RELAY. it's just fries inside by the wrong jump, it smelled like melted plastic. :reddance:

This relay is inside de dash board, just under de stereo. I hope this post can help someone. I post some pics to show it.

4runner 98, 3r gen.

Dome Fuse- end of my rope

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