Front seat bolt thread ripped out of floorboard
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SilverRidgeRunner1
Member
Get a couple of washer and a long stainless steel bolt and nut and run it through the hole and tighten up .... Question was this due to floor panel rust.
Kinnick
New member
This just happened to me. If you search you will find the front left to be a common problem as these vehicles age. I just drilled a hole through the existing hole down through the floor. I then bought a new longer grade 8 bolt, some fender washers and a nut. I applied some silicone on the washer to create a nice water tight seal from the underside. It is probably now stronger than the original design. Easy and inexpesive.
That's not a bad idea, thanks.
No, there was no rust that I saw.
I had been using this spot for my heavy gauge car stereo grounding spot. So it had been getting removed/tightened several times over and I probably put a lot of stress on the joint.
How do I access the area under where I need to put a nut and washer? I can't seem to find any ways in.
You can't access it. This just happened to me 2 weeks ago. I shit you not. I was tightening the bolt and the nut ripped out of the metal as it was stuck. I removed the nut but I no longer has threads to tighten the bolt back up. I had to cut out a square piece, take a big washer and cut it into a square and weld a nut on the washer. Then welded the washer back in place and fixed the problem.
UnderFire
New member
You can see the square weld , that's the washer with a nut welded on the other side.
This is by far the most effective and strongest way to repair this issue. I would have made my cut section a bit bigger, nbut this should hold up a long time, I'd use 1/8" plate for your patch piece.
fblainen11
New member
Happened to me on a rust free vehicle. Drilled a hole through the floor, bought a long bolt with washers. Went from a small washer and worked up to a great big washer.
Worked well and no problems. Double check there isn't anything on the underside of the vehicle. This was on my old 2wd. Not sure on my 4wd if anythings in the way
Worked well and no problems. Double check there isn't anything on the underside of the vehicle. This was on my old 2wd. Not sure on my 4wd if anythings in the way
ChildrenOfBodom
Moderator
4runnerfiend
New member
This shit just happened to me. WTF. I don't have a welder :mmph:
Dezert4Runner
Senior Member
There’s been a few threads on this one. On my now sold ‘96, I cut a rectangular hole in the back side of that cross member with a Dremel to access the nut on the inside and held with a pair of needle nose pliers. Basically a 1” wide and 1/2” tall rectangular hole worked. Depending on how bad the front hole in the cross member has cracked or if the nut on the inside just broke the tack weld will determine if this hack will be sufficient for you. Add a big washer if the sheet metal is cracked but if it broke a piece off you might just have to have it welded and tapped.
Seat bolt came out .....
brillo_76
Elite Member
When I fixed my tetanus 1 98 runner. I used the washer method. Could either weld, silicone or jb weld the washer nut back into place. I welded the nut to the washer. Then used the seat bolt to get it into place. Tightened it up and put 3 drill holes around the bolt. You could use pop rivets to keep the washer nut in place. I just weld filled the 3 drill holes. Painted it up and put it all back together. Been still holding for a few years now. 
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4runnerfiend
New member
yeah I ended up doing the washer/bold JB weld method. used a super large thick washer, smaller centering washer and nut JB welded together and put gorilla double sided tape the the other side. slid it in from the opening on the "crossmember" fished it out with a longer bolt and pulled up on it. Gorilla tape held it in place so i could get the seat set in place and mounting bold in. Worked great. I feel good about it because the force is being put on the washer. JB weld just held the bolt in place.
BTW admin/moderator if you see this. Posting pics is freaking lame! :yell:
BTW admin/moderator if you see this. Posting pics is freaking lame! :yell:
Last edited:
4runnerfiend
New member
Here are some pics
Ended up not using the nylon lock nut. wet to a standard as it was easier to get the bolt threaded. Long bolt was only used to "fish" out the washer and get it to stick to the sheet metal.
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Ended up not using the nylon lock nut. wet to a standard as it was easier to get the bolt threaded. Long bolt was only used to "fish" out the washer and get it to stick to the sheet metal.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
brillo_76
Elite Member
Nice repair 4runnerfiend. If you seat bolt is solid that is all that really matters..Here are some pics
Ended up not using the nylon lock nut. wet to a standard as it was easier to get the bolt threaded. Long bolt was only used to "fish" out the washer and get it to stick to the sheet metal.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
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