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Old 06-08-2018, 07:43 PM #151
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Finally got a proper front skid installed! I went with Savage because:

- Covers the radiator very well
- Two piece design makes it easy to install and can take just the back plate down for oil changes and stuff
- The "two step" design is understated and matches the shape of the original skid

Emptied a couple cans of rustoleum primer and gloss black and we're good to go!

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Old 06-08-2018, 08:17 PM #152
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Finally got a proper front skid installed! I went with Savage because:

- Covers the radiator very well
- Two piece design makes it easy to install and can take just the back plate down for oil changes and stuff
- The "two step" design is understated and matches the shape of the original skid

Emptied a couple cans of rustoleum primer and gloss black and we're good to go!

You're ready for some Mall Crawling now. Those speed bumps are no match for your Savage skid plates.
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:25 PM #153
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You're ready for some Mall Crawling now. Those speed bumps are no match for your Savage skid plates.
Heck yeah. The brodozers dont stand a chance against me.
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:23 PM #154
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Sonoran Steel offers a pair of brackets that allow you to adapt an 01-04 TRD Tacoma swaybar to the 4Runner. Steve claims that the primary benefit is that the TRD bar uses a short, double-balljoint link that allows more flexibility at the extreme ends of suspension travel. I liked the idea so I went for it. This isn't a comprehensive writeup -- just a few details.

The TRD bar came on certain models of the 01-04 Tacomas, including some 4x4 and PreRunners. The connections at the ends are flipped 90* from the 4Runner style ones. The TRD bar is 27mm thick whereas the 4Runner bar is 26mm. Doesn't sound like much, but it's a 15% increase in stiffness. The TRD bar bolts up to the factory frame locations no problem.

Parts needed:
- TRD swaybar
- New bushing brackets (they are different than the factory 4Runner ones)
- New bushings (27mm required -- Energy Suspension has them)
- Endlinks
- Sonoran Steel brackets

(I suppose you could also find a pair of LCAs from one of these Tacomas just use that directly!)

My strategy was to weld with the LCAs still installed in the truck. This allowed me to make sure things were aligned and it was less labor that pulling the LCAs out. The welding angles were a bit tricky but the friend that did the welding didn't have much trouble.

I trimmed the bracket from Sonoran somewhat to provide more clearance to the CV boot. Wasn't necessary, just made me feel better. Prepped the areas for welding.





I bolted the new bar on, installed endlinks, and placed the tabs in the correct location. Tacked, removed the links, and then burned them in. After a couple of hours of leisurely welding:



Painted the brackets, bolted things up, and we're ready to go.





How do you like my painting job? I tried to apply grey primer and then black paint with a BRUSH and they kind of mixed... sort of like suspension tie-dye.

Heres a look at one of the new bushings and brackets:



So far it is working just fine. I can feel that the on-road handling is a tad stiffer, but the change is positive. I haven't had a chance to do any offroad stuff with it yet but I want to get an idea of how it looks when the suspension is at max up and down travel.

Overall a cool mini-mod -- not too expensive, not too complicated, and all OEM ;)
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:02 PM #155
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I found a nice OEM 96-98 bumper for sale on CL and decided it was finally time to make the swap. I've never loved the look of the 99-02 "fat lip" though I realize the newer style bumper offers some additional front-end collision protection due to the integral crash bar. I figured with a little patience I could get the best of both worlds.

After removing the fat lip here's the crash bar bolted to the frame rails



My strategy was to trim back the crush cans and fit it more snugly in toward the rails to fit the older bumper. This would reduce its crash protection somewhat but a lot better than removing it entirely.

With a little help from an angle grinder, hacksaw, and my metal-cutting bandsaw I got the flanges removed and the cans trimmed down to fit.



Nice to have a friend with a welder



As an added bonus the plastic dam that comes on the crash bar can still be used with a bit of trimming





Now the crash bar is tucked up tightly enough to just allow the early-style bumper to fit with a teensy bit of clearance. The dam fits very nicely up to the skid plate mount bar presenting a closed surface. This should help keep mud from splashing up in and direct all the air going into the radiator.



Voila!

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Old 07-11-2018, 02:24 PM #156
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Nice. The bar there will be sufficient to protect you from any very-low-speed damage to the front end, parking by braille, etc.

-Charlie
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Old 07-11-2018, 02:31 PM #157
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Nice. The bar there will be sufficient to protect you from any very-low-speed damage to the front end, parking by braille, etc.

-Charlie
Thanks! That's my thinking too. Next step would be to install a front hitch which would be much stouter.
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Old 07-29-2018, 02:47 PM #158
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Thanks! That's my thinking too. Next step would be to install a front hitch which would be much stouter.
So I did it. The item is a Warn 33025. Took a bit of trimming on the front frame rail mounts but otherwise it fit up great. I think of this as a utility towing/recovery point and "stealth armor"

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Old 07-29-2018, 02:49 PM #159
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Last week I helped @mtbtim do his manual hub swap. We disassembled a pair of spindles from his truck with low mileage that are known to be as-is from the factory. You can see the orientation of the wheel bearings: the side with the black colored ring goes inboard toward the balljoint. Leaving this here for posterity's sake!

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Old 07-29-2018, 03:05 PM #160
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After routing my CB antenna cable through the flap door of the pressure vent I got to thinking that there must be a cleaner solution that doesn't defeat the dust-sealing function of the flap. A T4R member alerted me to the fact that some of the 01-02 4Runners had a different pressure vent with an incorporated hole for the trailer wiring (sorry I can't recall who -- I'd give you props if I did!)

Standard vent: 62940-35010
Special vent with hole: 62940-35020

Regardless of the wiring upgrade I'm glad I took this old pressure vent about because the flap was about to totally deteriorate



Note that the new vent did not come with the grommet. That part is a Daystar universal firewall grommet which worked perfectly for the application.

Installed with the CB wire running through it.





BTW, I have no idea what the little tab below the hole is for. Maybe the OEM trailer wiring is clipped on here or something?

Note that the top hole of the new vent is a little smaller but the stuffing from the vent inside the interior panel still fit in there fine.
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Old 08-08-2018, 07:31 PM #161
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The Savage skids got their first dents this past weekend!



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Old 08-08-2018, 09:02 PM #162
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Sic Skid Plate Scars Jordan. I told you mall crawling can be pretty technical. Next time follow my line through the speed bumps and you might exit the mall without any more scars on your skids.
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:35 PM #163
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Thanks hab!

Here's a tip for the manual-hub-equipped (looking at you @habanero and @Chuckles89 ): Toyota wants $4 a piece for the hub dial o-ring (technically an x-ring) but you can get the right size from McMaster-Carr. $8 got me a pack of 25, so if anyone needs a pair of them let me know and I'll pop them in an envelope for you.


Old on left, new on right.


Installed with a bit of silicone grease


The McMaster baggie
I need to post a correction about this old post. I've never been happy with the torque required to turn the dial faces. I chalked this up to the o-ring being fresh but on a hunch I bought a new pair of rings from Toyota (almost $5 each, ouch). Turns out the Toyota o-rings are a 5-point star cross section rather than an x-ring. This means that only one sealing lip is actually dragging against the dial face. With these new o-rings the torque feels perfectly normal.

These x-rings still work and seal fine, they just make the dial harder to turn. If that doesn't bug you then they are a cheaper option.

@mtbtim Let's replace those o-rings I gave you that are hard to turn with some OEM ones!
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Old 08-10-2018, 10:31 PM #164
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There is some good tech here Jordan. Love your attention to detail and clean installs
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Old 08-11-2018, 08:02 PM #165
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There is some good tech here Jordan. Love your attention to detail and clean installs
Thanks my friend, I appreciate the kind words!
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