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Old 05-09-2011, 07:55 PM #1
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How "pre-wired" am I?? (E-Locker Wiring Help Needed)

So I have been reading and searching until my eyes pop out, on the e-locker wiring. There are a couple ways to do this, some being easier than others - the dual relay 12V method seems to be the quick and easy method.

As shown here: Outdoor Recreation Network - Off-Highway, Jeep, & 4x4 Fun

I however, have a complete e-locked 96 4Runner sitting at my disposal (wrecked). I have already pulled the entire rear axle out from under it and in the process of cleaning up the housing and re-painting it/replacing seals etc. I would like to use all of the factory wiring for the e-locker and use the factory e-locker switch on the dash and the light in the cluster to indicate when the rear end is "locked."

I know from reading this article (Retrofit Electric Locker) that some 4Runners came kind of "pre-wired" for the e-locker even if they were not equiped with one, and I'm hoping this is what I have!! I pulled apart my dash today to look by the factory fuse block behind the kick panel and see if I could find any stashed connectors like in the article mentioned above. I found nothing. I thought all hope was lost until I pulled the area below my cluster (where the e-locker switch is supposed to go) and found these:
(the e-locker switch plug is kind of out of site here)

Now my question is this: is the black plug pictured above the same plug that is supposed to plug into the "4WD Control Computer" that is needed to run the e-locker?

The black plug fits perfectly into the 4WD control computer:


The following photo is the gutted harness from my donor vehicle. You can see the plug that runs into the 4WD control computer, the e-locker switch, and the computer itself.


Here is a comparison of the two plugs:

(They are rotated opposite, sorry)

As per the article posted above, I tried plugging in the 4WD control computer and the e-locker switch, engaged the truck in 4LO and tried to see if the "RR Diff Lock" light would illuminate in my cluster, it did not. It appears that the black plug has less wiring coming out of it than the "pre-wired" plug that was found under the dash in the article above.

I am just trying to find out where I stand. What is the black plug for, if not for the locker? Is my 4Runner only "pre-wired" for the e-locker switch? is this common among all 3rd gens?

FYI: my original thought was that I would simply pull the entire harness out of my donor vehicle and put it in my 98 4runner. This however, will be VERY difficult as the harness for the e-locker is intertwined into pretty much everything else under the dash. I would need to pretty much swap the entire wiring harness, and im NOT about to do that. I would do the 12V setup but dont want to spend a dollar more on this project if I can help it!
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:22 PM #2
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If you have the plug for the switch, you probably have the plug for the ecm. I think that you are using the wrong plug. You need to remove the drivers kick panel, and there you will find a plug that has been taped up to a wire harness. Plug the box in and see if the diff light will come on.
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:48 PM #3
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Originally Posted by Singtoe View Post
If you have the plug for the switch, you probably have the plug for the ecm. I think that you are using the wrong plug. You need to remove the drivers kick panel, and there you will find a plug that has been taped up to a wire harness. Plug the box in and see if the diff light will come on.
Yah, I pulled the kick panel and found nothing of the sort.....
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:46 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickashay View Post
Yah, I pulled the kick panel and found nothing of the sort.....
Sorry bud, bad luck. Well you have the switch and the harness. It would be easy enough to make your self a subharness to get you going.

These are the 10 wires that come out of the Elocker ECM

Pin 1 to the diff light in the instrument cluster and to the "locked" switch in the elocker. (supplies ground signal when activated)
Pin 2 goes to the light green and red wire on the elocker.
Pin 3 goes to the light green wire on the elocker.
Pin 4 is the switch circuit. Must have a switch wire supplying +12 volts.
Pin 5 is +12 (original wiring had 20 amp fuse, so it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and install a fuse)
Pin 6 is goes to the light green with black stripe wire on the elocker.
Pin 7 goes to ground
Pin 8 is the 4wd low input from the transfer case. Ground this wire.
Pin 9 goes to light green and yellow wire on the elocker
Pin 10 is the speed sensor. Ground the VSS (speed) wire.

Other wires needed would be a ground going to the black and white wires on the elocker and +12 (10 amp fused) going to the other side of the RR DIFF switch.

Pretty easy.
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:11 PM #5
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I went through this not too long ago and swapped in a complete '97 elocker axle. I had no 'pre-wiring'. Singtoe is correct though, it's not all really that hard if you wanna keep your computer and button.

Another option would be, unless you really want the factory button and computer I would just suggest doing a wire retrofit and ridding of them both. It's fairly easy and you wont have to do the grey wire mod later. The locker will be fully independent. This is the route I took. PM me if you want some details and a list of items you would need.
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:59 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR View Post
Another option would be, unless you really want the factory button and computer I would just suggest doing a wire retrofit and ridding of them both. It's fairly easy and you wont have to do the grey wire mod later. The locker will be fully independent. This is the route I took. PM me if you want some details and a list of items you would need.
Are you talking about the dual relay standalone method?

And thanks for the info Singtoe!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:34 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARKRWLR View Post
I went through this not too long ago and swapped in a complete '97 elocker axle. I had no 'pre-wiring'. Singtoe is correct though, it's not all really that hard if you wanna keep your computer and button.

Another option would be, unless you really want the factory button and computer I would just suggest doing a wire retrofit and ridding of them both. It's fairly easy and you wont have to do the grey wire mod later. The locker will be fully independent. This is the route I took. PM me if you want some details and a list of items you would need.
That would be awesome if you could post up. I'm just beginning my journey of gathering information to add this to my 3rd gen.
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:30 AM #8
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1) DPDT Momentary switch body Click

2) "Rear Locker" Switch lens of your choice color. Can be found on that same site left side under the "CARLING TECH CONTURA ROCKERS/ACTUATORS ONLY" styles.
Blue
Red

3) Some kind of cable that is 18 gauge at least. You can make 3 runs of 2 conductor or one single run of 6 conductor. 18-6 is a little harder to come by than 18-2 and more expensive. You could maybe find a commercial or residential alarm company and see if they have some you can snag. I don't know if home depot or a hardware store will have any 18-6.

3) Wire loom and zip ties to run the cable in under the truck.

4) You'll want to solder your cable to the wires off the plug of the elocker as well as use some shrink wrap to melt around the solder to secure it. Make sure you write down what color wire goes to what from the plug cus you will need this during installment of the switch. You DO NOT need any other kind of elocker harness other than the harness that plugs into the elocker motor itself. It should have 6 or 7 (I can't remember) wires coming out of it.

5) A few crimp on female connectors to connect cabling to switch.

6) You'll need this

and

7) it might help to know this as well


I need to find my dang notebook I wrote all my color coding in. It would help out. Once I find it I'll finalize this write up. Here's another link that would be helpful if read 4x4Wire Elec Locker
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:47 AM #9
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Awesome thank you!

is that basically the do it your self version of this?

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Old 05-10-2011, 09:10 AM #10
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Awesome thank you!

is that basically the do it your self version of this?

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Yes, pretty much. You wont have to deal with any resistors or fuses and will only have one switch to do all the work.

An another note, I found my notebook and I will whip up a color code diagram when I get off work. I'll prob start a new thread when I do.
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:32 PM #11
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Yes, pretty much. You wont have to deal with any resistors or fuses and will only have one switch to do all the work.

An another note, I found my notebook and I will whip up a color code diagram when I get off work. I'll prob start a new thread when I do.
Ok, that would be great! I haven't seen this method before but its awesome cause you dont have to use any relays, just the switch. Sweet I may be going this route.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:14 PM #12
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I plan on swapping the e-locker axle and front diff out of my 2000 into my '98. I need both to be completely functional when done. Would it be possible to just swap the harnesses? Or would that cause the push button 4w-hi on the 2000 to not function properly?
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:23 PM #13
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Didn't realize the first pic was the pin out of the 8 pin connector, deleted the post so it doesn't have wrong info in it.

No rush here on the diagram. I dont even have the axle under it yet

Thank you tons in advance tho!!!

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Old 05-12-2011, 11:34 PM #14
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no.. that 1st diagram is only for a knowledge basis of knowing what color does what. In no way do both those diagrams correspond with each other. I'm working on the wiring write up but I'm trying to get pics and all my ducks in a row before I post it. I might go ahead and post it now, and worry bout more pics later.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:37 PM #15
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You rock!

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