Can you remove your key in the ACC position? Help before I order a lock cyl.

JB40

New member
Hello all. Last night I killed my battery accidentally after removing the key in the ACC position and letting it sit overnight.

I'm currently shopping lock cylinders and will probably get a local locksmith to key/program it to match. Before I go down that path, I just want to make sure this is not normal so I'll ask the dumb question:

Is the key only supposed to be removable in the OFF position only?

Thanks in advance.

--Jay
 
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No the key should not be able to be removed in the ACC position. Also, buy a key cheap on ebay and program it yourself. Lots of info on key programming here and youtube. Save yourself some money.
 
are you sure the cylinder is the problem? is the key worn to the point it could have slipped out?
 
No the key should not be able to be removed in the ACC position. Also, buy a key cheap on ebay and program it yourself. Lots of info on key programming here and youtube. Save yourself some money.

Already ordered a pair after searching and reading. I only got one key with it so I wanted to go ahead and get a new one + backup. Got FOBs too. Thanks for answering and for the suggestion.

are you sure the cylinder is the problem? is the key worn to the point it could have slipped out?

No I'm not sure... The key is hecka worn and looks like it would start a car 30 years old. It has a dot on the blade so it should be an OEM master if I read correctly... It does not work in the door or liftgate, and has to be jiggled BIG TIME to open the glovebox (after locking it fairly easily with the same key).

It is hard for me to believe that this one-owner 4runner would've had the ignition cylinder replaced AND need another new one in less than 9 years. It just doesn't add up, but I've never heard of a worn key pulling out in ACC mode. Not turning I have seen, but not that.
 
i think the key is the problem. i would get new ones cut and stop usingthe old one. also the new keys should work in the doors and glove box just fine. when i first got my 09 last year i could not use the key in the hatch. after a few tries it started to work and now i am able to open the doors and rear window no problem
 
i think the key is the problem. i would get new ones cut and stop usingthe old one. also the new keys should work in the doors and glove box just fine. when i first got my 09 last year i could not use the key in the hatch. after a few tries it started to work and now i am able to open the doors and rear window no problem

That's interesting... I have two blanks on the way. Do you recommend just having someone like a hardware store/locksmith cut them or did you have the dealer cut them based on the VIN? I'd really like to avoid dealer expense as they quoted me $165 for a key and as you can imagine that rubbed me the wrong way.

I'll be anxious to see if that solves my ACC key removal "feature".
 
That's interesting... I have two blanks on the way. Do you recommend just having someone like a hardware store/locksmith cut them or did you have the dealer cut them based on the VIN? I'd really like to avoid dealer expense as they quoted me $165 for a key and as you can imagine that rubbed me the wrong way.

I'll be anxious to see if that solves my ACC key removal "feature".

well if you get a key for cheap on ebay, get it cut cheap, test it and it doesnt work your out a few dollars. if you buy a key and have the dealer cut it and it doesnt work in the doors you just spent to much money. so i would go the cheaper way first its only keys.
 
My dealer cut the key for free and I programmed it myself. I just told them it was for an extra door lock key. Try the dealer then look up on line how to program it.
 
well if you get a key for cheap on ebay, get it cut cheap, test it and it doesnt work your out a few dollars. if you buy a key and have the dealer cut it and it doesnt work in the doors you just spent to much money. so i would go the cheaper way first its only keys.

Agreed. I'll do one key cheap and see if it works all around and programs first.

My dealer cut the key for free and I programmed it myself. I just told them it was for an extra door lock key. Try the dealer then look up on line how to program it.

I'll try this with the second key if plan A fails. Thanks!
 
Have a new key cut. Typically the keys wear out and start slipping out of the ignition more than the ignition cylinder failing. I would have a new key cut then see if that fixes the issue before going about a new cylinder. At the dealership I work at we typically have a "cheapo" non-chipped throw-away key cut to verify this and let the customer keep it for unlocking doors if they want.
 
Have a new key cut. Typically the keys wear out and start slipping out of the ignition more than the ignition cylinder failing. I would have a new key cut then see if that fixes the issue before going about a new cylinder. At the dealership I work at we typically have a "cheapo" non-chipped throw-away key cut to verify this and let the customer keep it for unlocking doors if they want.

Thanks for replying. Good to know that on a Toyota it is likely the key in this situation!
 
be sure to have it cut from the VIN number by the dealer
(don't copy a worn key)

This is absolutely true, you want a fresh key cut from the VIN and make sure you match it up to the old key (you are looking to make sure the ridges and valleys are in the same spots and are mirrored properly) because our key cutting machine in our part's department messes up sometimes, so not all machines work perfectly.
 
I appreciate what you guys are saying, but virtually no chance of me paying the dealer for that. They wanted to charge $60 ($80?) For a key. $190 for a key, a fob, and $65 in programming to make it work. I think I'll take my chances.

If I take it to them to cut, I'm sure I'll get the "we can't cut it because it isnt OE" spiel, or, "we can cut it for $40 but if it doesn't work you're SOL".

I need that money towards a timing belt.
 
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I appreciate what you guys are saying, but virtually no chance of me paying the dealer for that. They wanted to charge $60 ($80?) For a key. $190 for a key, a fob, and $65 in programming to make it work. I think I'll take my chances.

If I take it to them to cut, I'm sure I'll get the "we can't cut it because it isnt OE spiel, or, we can cut it for $40 but if it doesn't work you're SOL.

I need that money towards a timing belt.

I understand, but getting a copy made based off a worn key won't do you any favors either. So you're SoL anyways, unless you want to buy a new ignition switch, which doesn't come with a key and needs to be matched to your VIN when ordered.
 
Agreed... I have to do some running around this week, so maybe I'll stop by 2 of the 3 dealers in town... Maybe I can find someone willing to cut one of my blanks out of the kindness of their hearts.







BWAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!! :pound:
 
Unfortunately dealers around here seem to take lessons in driving away business. (example: The dodge dealer lost a $3k body repair for admitting then later denying a $100 warranty claim)

I have 3 dealers local to me, so I've already told my wife that whichever parts dept. is unwilling to cut my blanks could be a deciding factor in getting my maintenance business, including water pump/TB if Toyota's system shows it as not already done.
 
Update.

Two new Ebay keys found here... seller siremotes
PDF Page 8, instructions clarified here:
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

This is where I got my keys from. I would recommend getting two and only having ONE cut at a time. I had both cut at the same time the first time around and they were both cut wrong.

Then I went to Jim Barkley in Asheville, NC and had them cut for FREE! That was unexpected

Then programed them myself

1. Take the new key and one master key that can start your 4runner(old key) into the 4runner with you and close the driver's door.(immobilizer light should be blinking)

2. Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key, remove old key, Insert old key, remove old key,
Insert old key (immobilizer light should be off from the first insertion)

3. open and close driver's door six times (immobilizer light should be off)
Step 2 and 3 need to be done in less than 35 seconds(pdf says 35 seconds)

4.remove the old key. (immobilizer light should come on(steady on, not blinking))

5. insert the new key(immobilizer light should be blinking)

Then just sit there and wait, after about one minute the blinking immobilizer light should go off and you're done.

Same as the above post without having to read all the technically stuff.

Good Luck!

And with this video:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/E23VP8zrVIY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Two keys are now programmed.
Local dealer was cool about cutting them for the VIN for $10.

And last but not least, the key now works in the door and liftgate, and NO LONGER PULLS OUT IN ACC! :lock1:
 

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