07-26-2020, 07:36 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Merritt Island, Florida
Posts: 1,617
Real Name: Brett
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Senior Member
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Location: Merritt Island, Florida
Posts: 1,617
Real Name: Brett
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Ladies and Gentleman, we are watching the emergence of a master at the art of the tutorial thread.
@ momo.75
Here's another sticky.
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1988 DLX 22RE AUTO BLACK- "Granny" - SOLD
2003 SR5 SPORT V8- Build- "Pearl" You Tube 2UZ 120
2012 LIMITED V6 "LE Mae" 5TH GEN BUILD THREAD
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07-26-2020, 11:22 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 1,034
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RunnerAquasport
Ladies and Gentleman, we are watching the emergence of a master at the art of the tutorial thread.
@ momo.75
Here's another sticky.
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Thank you, I appreciate the compliments! I'm trying to grab some pictures for all my bigger projects and offer the perspective of a modest/entry level wrench to help get others started. I've got the tutorial thing down to a science with a template for the directory and everything haha.
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07-27-2020, 02:35 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
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Excellent tutorial. I had to do mine which were in really bad shape, with the rear completely broken, and the front very close to breaking. I wasn’t as fortunate as you were with the bolts though, and ended up breaking maybe 3-4 of the ones for the shield trying to remove that. I ended up drilling and retapping those, and also chased EVERY hole with the tap, and of course used anti-seize for reassembly. My brother in law does powder coating, so I had the shield sandblasted and powder coated gloss black before putting that back on. I drove for a couple of months without it because I was dreading having to drill out the broken hardware, the worst of which was that angled one above the driveshaft! Had to use a small right angle drill attachment to get in there to do that, and then a long pulley tap for the threads. I preferred doing it that way to dropping the driveshaft, but was prepared to do that if I had to. Man do I wish they’d do a frame recall on these!
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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07-27-2020, 02:47 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 1,034
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03
Excellent tutorial. I had to do mine which were in really bad shape, with the rear completely broken, and the front very close to breaking. I wasn’t as fortunate as you were with the bolts though, and ended up breaking maybe 3-4 of the ones for the shield trying to remove that. I ended up drilling and retapping those, and also chased EVERY hole with the tap, and of course used anti-seize for reassembly. My brother in law does powder coating, so I had the shield sandblasted and powder coated gloss black before putting that back on. I drove for a couple of months without it because I was dreading having to drill out the broken hardware, the worst of which was that angled one above the driveshaft! Had to use a small right angle drill attachment to get in there to do that, and then a long pulley tap for the threads. I preferred doing it that way to dropping the driveshaft, but was prepared to do that if I had to. Man do I wish they’d do a frame recall on these!
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Thank you! I somehow got lucky with my bolts, especially considering I broke almost all the front skid bolts when I removed those. Powder coat is a nice touch too! That bolt behind the driveshaft is awful, I was about to pull the driveshaft out because I hated rotating it 1/12 of a turn the whole way. I still haven't put that one back, since I need to drop the skid again to replace the rusty pin.
A frame recall would definitely nice! I bought mine as an idiot teenager, and didn't think/know to look over everything completely. Previous owner was from PA and had a Penn sticker on the rear winshield, which should have been a big red flag. Hindsight is 20/20, so now I'm on the quest to get it all fixed up!
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07-28-2020, 10:11 AM
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#20
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 441
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 441
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'09 V8 Limited | Dobinsons Lift | Front: 3" - C59-302 + GS59-220 | Rear: 2.5" - C59-675V + GS59-701 | Tires | Ridge Grappler 275/65/18XL | Wheels | Method Standard Machined Finish 18x9 -12 offset | SPC UCAs | DT Long Tubes | GSport 2.5" Cats | DT Y-Pipe | Magnaflow Cat Back | 2.5" Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator
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08-31-2020, 10:07 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Hudson Valley
Posts: 89
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Hudson Valley
Posts: 89
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How close was the tank to falling out before you fixed? Did you have time left or was it so bad you ran the risk of the tank falling off.
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08-31-2020, 01:14 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
Posts: 1,034
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Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Dobalina
How close was the tank to falling out before you fixed? Did you have time left or was it so bad you ran the risk of the tank falling off.
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If your skid plate is in good condition, but the straps are rusted, the tank will just sit on the skid plate. The tank won't immediately fall out if the straps break. In my case, the front was holding, and the rear had rusted through completely.
I assume it was in the rusted condition for a while. We haven't gotten any real snow and salted roads where I live for the past couple years, so it certainly didn't happened super recently.
Let me know if you have any more questions!
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09-01-2020, 01:52 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 6
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Awesome job! Had the same issue a few months back and actually used super heavy duty zip ties instead of ratchet straps. It worked like a charm!
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2006 SR5 V6 4WD
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09-01-2020, 03:46 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatalhashbrown
Awesome job! Had the same issue a few months back and actually used super heavy duty zip ties instead of ratchet straps. It worked like a charm!
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Thanks, and that is a great idea! The rigidity of the zip ties probably helped push them through with the tank sitting on the skid. That was one of the struggles with using the ratchet straps, and why I had to take such indirect routes to get them fished through.
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09-22-2020, 10:34 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 79
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Great writeup and timely. I'm de-rusting and notice an almost broken strap.
Man these things are rust buckets. I can only imagine the status of the other lines...brake, etc.. Seems like we should spray them down a few times a year with lube.
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09-23-2020, 01:31 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithyota
Great writeup and timely. I'm de-rusting and notice an almost broken strap.
Man these things are rust buckets. I can only imagine the status of the other lines...brake, etc.. Seems like we should spray them down a few times a year with lube.
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No problem, I hope it helps you. Overall wasn't too bad of a job, you got this!
Definitely some rusty vehicles, I'm slowly chipping away (pun intended lol) at fixing the rust issues. A needle scaler goes a long way towards removing the crusties quickly, then following up with a wire wheel on a grinder to get it down to clean metal. I like the rustoleum rust reformer, its done well for me so far. Haven't had it on for a long time, but will definitely update here, or my thread, on long term performance.
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10-05-2020, 12:02 AM
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#27
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Smyrna, GA
Posts: 5
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Location: Smyrna, GA
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Great Post
I have to replace my straps soon. Thanks for the detailed instructions!
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10-05-2020, 10:00 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Lafayette, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jglayden
I have to replace my straps soon. Thanks for the detailed instructions!
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Thanks, I hope it helps! Let me know if you have any questions
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02-21-2021, 12:16 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Greenville, SC
Age: 44
Posts: 1,297
Real Name: Mike
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Greenville, SC
Age: 44
Posts: 1,297
Real Name: Mike
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Thank you for the write-up! Just inadvertently noticed the other day that the rear strap is bust. Hopefully, I have the same success as you with the bolts. Just went ahead and ordered all the hardware to minimize downtime. This is now on the to-do list along with the exhaust falling off! Damn Rust!
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SOLD2007 4Runner Sport Edition V6 4X4 - Natural White - Perf: Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers | 4.56 Gears ARB Front / TrueTrac Rear Off Road: Fr: Bilstein 6112 w/1/2" Toytec Spacer / Rr: MT ICON Long Travel | JBA UCAs | VTX Rogue 17x8.5 -10 | GY Duratrac 285/70R17 | Rear Diff Breather Mod | 1" Toytec Body Lift | Custom Cut Axle Joints ICE: Auto Pumpkin 10.1" Android | 3.5" Tweeter Mod Exterior: Quad Bi-Xenon HID Retrofit
2019 4Runner Limited 4x4 - MGM - Hers | Ironman4x4 FCP's & UCA | Fuel Rebel 20x9+1 | GY Duratrac 275/60R20 | Victory 4x4 FLRR
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02-22-2021, 12:00 AM
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#30
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Canada
Posts: 10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Canada
Posts: 10
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Great Write Up !
Thank You !
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