Rear hatch actuator fix - latch closes, waits 2 sec, finishes cycle and won't open

adammsu

New member
So my hatch popped open the other day. i closed it, then got home and it wouldn't open again, no noise or nothing. i reset the ECU-B fuse, which got it to open, but then the same again (close but not open). The main difference i noticed was that the cycle took longer.... after getting it open, i closed it, it would latch, sit for 2 seconds, and then finish the cycle - and THEN the button wouldn't work... Anyway, i figured it out and thought i would share.

after taking it out and playing with it for a while, i found it wasn't mechanical at all. i PB blastered, greased, all did nothing. it turn out to be a "sensor" issue.

In my case, since the motor was fine, i didn't think it was mechanical. i put it in the car without the door cover and watched. it dawned on me that the actuator was moving, but then sitting for like 2 seconds before finishing the cycle. The actuator didn't know where it was and therefore timed out (thus the 2 second delay - also the motor was hot because it was trying to push and couldn't). it became obvious that the motor is pushing the lock to one side, and not knowing when to stop.
pic1.jpg
this would cause the controller to freak out and disable it, thus requiring the reset to get it to open

turns out the positional sensor was gummed up. i didn't get a picture, but you can disconnect the white sensor with 2 screws.
pic2.jpg
then, you will see a part that rotates and has 2 prongs, like a fork. if you take a flat head screw driver, you can gently pop open the rotating part, essentially separating the "fork part" from the housing. i did 2 things: i took a needle and pried up the pins just a little to make sure they make contact, and i took a q-tip and cleaned out inside the sensor. it was all grimy and wet in mine, not sure how it got there, but i cleaned it out.

then i reinstalled, closed the door, lock and unlock, and it was perfect after that.

hopefully this helps someone, let me know if you have questions.
 

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Very helpful, thanks. The gummy stuff is likely amber grease that carmakers put on plastic gears which hardens over time. Ford uses this stuff which gums up blend door actuator. BDA in a Ford is a PIA to replace.
 
So my hatch popped open the other day. i closed it, then got home and it wouldn't open again, no noise or nothing. i reset the ECU-B fuse, which got it to open, but then the same again (close but not open). The main difference i noticed was that the cycle took longer.... after getting it open, i closed it, it would latch, sit for 2 seconds, and then finish the cycle - and THEN the button wouldn't work... Anyway, i figured it out and thought i would share.

after taking it out and playing with it for a while, i found it wasn't mechanical at all. i PB blastered, greased, all did nothing. it turn out to be a "sensor" issue.

In my case, since the motor was fine, i didn't think it was mechanical. i put it in the car without the door cover and watched. it dawned on me that the actuator was moving, but then sitting for like 2 seconds before finishing the cycle. The actuator didn't know where it was and therefore timed out (thus the 2 second delay - also the motor was hot because it was trying to push and couldn't). it became obvious that the motor is pushing the lock to one side, and not knowing when to stop.
View attachment 411648
this would cause the controller to freak out and disable it, thus requiring the reset to get it to open

turns out the positional sensor was gummed up. i didn't get a picture, but you can disconnect the white sensor with 2 screws.
View attachment 411649
then, you will see a part that rotates and has 2 prongs, like a fork. if you take a flat head screw driver, you can gently pop open the rotating part, essentially separating the "fork part" from the housing. i did 2 things: i took a needle and pried up the pins just a little to make sure they make contact, and i took a q-tip and cleaned out inside the sensor. it was all grimy and wet in mine, not sure how it got there, but i cleaned it out.

then i reinstalled, closed the door, lock and unlock, and it was perfect after that.

hopefully this helps someone, let me know if you have questions.

Excellent writeup, thank you!!!
 
Followed the directions and got it working good as new! Thank you so much!

Also, by tying some twine to the manual release lever and weaving it out through a hole in the trim I made a plan b. I can just roll down my rear window (or climb over the seats) and pull up on the twine to open the door.
 
Last weekend it was rain and cold enough for local snow. Moving my wife's Art stuff to a show, the hatch didn't want to open. I finally hit the remote twice and it opened. ????
___________________________
2007 SE V6 titanium.
 
Great writeup!

Unfortunately for me, it didn't work. I'm suspecting at this point the problem with mine isn't mechanical, it's somewhere in the control unit.

Guess my next course of action is to break out the multimeter and start testing sensor outputs.
 
Great writeup!

Unfortunately for me, it didn't work. I'm suspecting at this point the problem with mine isn't mechanical, it's somewhere in the control unit.

Guess my next course of action is to break out the multimeter and start testing sensor outputs.

The issue is typically in that latch assembly. You can get them on Amazon pretty cheap now. I've had one for maybe 3 years in mine and it still works as it should.
 
The issue is typically in that latch assembly.

It's possible, but the behavior in mine points to the control unit, IMO. The latch and servo mechanisms work smoothly, but it doesn't stop when it should.

It's actually rotating so far that even raising the release lever manually doesn't free the mechanism from the hasp.

Either the position sensor isn't sending a signal when it should, or the signal isn't getting to the control unit...or the unit is just acting schizo.

Until I can take a day and examine all the signals, I won't know for sure.
 
It's possible, but the behavior in mine points to the control unit, IMO. The latch and servo mechanisms work smoothly, but it doesn't stop when it should.

It's actually rotating so far that even raising the release lever manually doesn't free the mechanism from the hasp.

Either the position sensor isn't sending a signal when it should, or the signal isn't getting to the control unit...or the unit is just acting schizo.

Until I can take a day and examine all the signals, I won't know for sure.

Well that's the kicker, there's multiple switches in the mechanism and also a physical latch so an issue with the latch can give multiple symptoms. Mine was the latch wasn't locking itself properly so the motor would run the door in and closed, then reverse as it should but the latch would not stay latched so the door would open. I don't recall anyone ever having an issue that was the actual controller on here but possible of course. Keep us posted.
 

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