Replacing AC Servos / Actuators

88Center

Member
Ref: DIY: Replace Servo Sub-Assy

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Parts locations
04300 Parts Location (pdf)

Part Numbers:
Toyota 87106-35150 (All models) | Denso 063700-8860
Toyota 87106-35120 (All models) | Denso 063700-8860
Toyota 87106-35180 (All models) | Denso 063800-0660
Toyota 87106-35170 (Limited Only) | Denso 063800-0660

120 and 180 seem to go bad the most and cause all the loud clicking and buzzing sounds.

These two actuators are reachable without taking apart the dash, but the back screws on each one are a pain in the ass to reach. The back screw of the lower actuator requires drilling a hole through the side of the blower housing unit.

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Part 120

If you want to save a little money, buy Denso 063700-8860, instead of the much more expensive Toyota 87106-35120. The mounting bracket and white plastic alignment plate are removable and can be swapped onto the new motor.

Part 180

The rotating lever arm on this motor is not removable and appears to be a press fitting. To replace this actuator, you need to buy the entire unit, Toyota 87106-35180.

Part 150

If you have to replace this actuator behind the right side of the glove box, most likely you will need to follow the repair manual and take apart the entire dash. May the auto gods be with you on this perilous journey.

Part 170

Limited only. This is easily reachable without taking apart the dash.

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Note: The motors have plastic gears inside, and they wear down over time. Imho, it's worth replacing both servos (120 and 180) at the same time. If you have to replace 150, you might as well replace the others as well, since you will have to take apart the entire dash to gain access to 150, behind the glove box.

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TOOLS

  • Long Phillips screwdriver
  • Duct Tape
  • Drill
  • 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit
  • Right angle drill attachment
  • Marker
  • Towel
  • Good lighting

OPTIONAL TOOLS

  • Silicone paste
  • Ratchet with 1/4" drive
  • 6" long drive extension for 1/4" drive
  • 7mm socket for 1/4" drive
  • #8 (1/2") sheet metal hex head screws (6)
  • Electrical tape

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REMOVING ACTUATORS / SERVOS

  1. Remove glove box (no screws)
  2. Remove air filter (no screws)
  3. Remove hidden glove box (1 screw)
  4. Remove lower interior liner (1 screw)
  5. Disconnect wiring for control boxes (2 plugs)
  6. Disconnect wiring for blower (1 plug)
  7. Remove blower (3 screws)
  8. Remove air duct (no screws, 1 tab in back)
  9. Disconnect wiring for actuators (120 and 150)
  10. Remove screws for upper actuator and remove (120)
  11. Remove screws for lower actuator and remove (180)

Upper actuator (120)

Disconnect the wiring plug.

Remove the lower back screw, with a long screw Phillips screwdriver. You have to angle the screw driver and apply pressure to keep it locked in on the screw. Then remove the other two screws. Remove unit carefully.

After you remove it, take a marker and draw lines on the old unit to mark the position of the (white plastic) alignment plate, or take photos.

Lower actuator (180)

Disconnect the wiring plug.

Remove the upper back screw. To reach the upper back screw, drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole into the left side of the blower housing unit. Hole location is approximately 4" set back from front edge of unit. To do this, you'll need a very small handheld drill, right-angle drill, or drill with right-angle attachment. Then slip a long Phillips screwdriver through the hole to reach the back screw. This is the most difficult screw.

After you remove it, take a marker and draw lines on the old unit to mark the position of the (white plastic) rotating arm, or take photos.

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INSTALLING ACTUATORS / SERVOS

Grease Mechanisms

Optional. You might have noticed some grease left over on the mechanisms from the factory. If you have very little or no grease, or it's a grimy mess, it might be a good time to wipe things down and reapply lubrication.

Don't grease anything on the new actuators. Only grease the grooves/track, pins, and rotation points for the levers on the main ac unit. Don't go crazy with the grease and make a mess.

Upper Actuator (120)

Install upper actuator first. Before installing, do a test fit. Make sure the grooves on the alignment plate line up with the pins on the plastic pieces attached to the housing unit. Recall the marks you placed on the old actuator. If your new actuator plate is not in similar alignment, plug in the wire for the actuator, turn the key on and adjust the AC temp.

I found it easier to remove the alignment plate from the motor, and align the plate onto the three pins. Then put the motor on and snap it into the center hole plate. While holding it against the wall, install the front screw first. Then install the upper and lower back screws.

Optional: Some people choose to replace the screws with #8 hex screws, 1/2" long. For this, you'll need a socket set.

Lower actuator (180)

Before installing, do a test fit. Make sure the pins on the rotating arm line up with the grooves on the housing unit gears. Recall the marks you placed on the old actuator. If your new actuator arm is not in similar alignment, plug in the wire for the new actuator, turn the key on and adjust the AC temp.

Once you have the actuator arm rotated to the correct position, install the lower actuator. Use the hole on front end of the the mounting bracket and place onto the plastic alignment pin on the housing unit.

Next, ensure the two metal pins on the plastic rotating arm are seated into the appropriate gears/levers. Once they are seated, hold it in place and screw in the front screw first. Next install the bottom screw.

For the back screw, replace the screw with #8 (1/2") sheet metal screw. Feed a 6" long 1/4" drive extension through the hole you drilled earlier, and carefully attach a 7mm socket and screw. Carefully line up the screw and tighten. Double check front two screws to ensure everything is secure.

Place a piece of duct or electrical tape on the inside and outside of the blower unit to cover the freshly drilled hole.

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Attachments

  • 04300-Parts-Location.pdf
    04300-Parts-Location.pdf
    242.1 KB · Views: 376
  • Servo-Locations.jpg
    Servo-Locations.jpg
    128.3 KB · Views: 1,633
  • Servo-Locations-2.jpg
    Servo-Locations-2.jpg
    134.9 KB · Views: 1,352
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HELPFUL VIDEOS

Diagnose Clicking/Buzzing Sound from AC Actuators / Servo / Blend Door

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXAQhMnNYXM

How to Remove and Install Cabin Air Filter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHYRXaJKG6Is

How to Replace Blower Motor

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CSehwBvYRQ

Where to Drill Hole to Access Back Screw on Lower Actuator

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7-waK0J070

Alternate Method to Install By Cutting A Notch in the Metal Bracket

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfYkypo2vqo

Dual Temp HVAC Passenger Side Door Actuator Repair

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-tZCtyWjtE


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HELPFUL PDFs FROM REPAIR MANUAL

See attached for PDF's from Toyota's Repair Manual for 4th Gen 4Runners.

  • AC Unit Removal and Disassembly
  • AC Unit Reassembly
  • Blower Unit Reassembly and Installation
  • AC Unit Components
  • Blower Unit Components, Removal, and Disassembly
 

Attachments

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HELPFUL PDFs FROM REPAIR MANUAL

See attached for PDF's from Toyota's Repair Manual for 4th Gen 4Runners

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DIAGNOSIS

If you hear a steady clicking /ticking sound, or loud buzzing sound, your servo motor(s) might need replacing. Try adjusting the AC settings to confirm which servo is the problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXAQhMnNYXM

Perform a DTC Check (Sensor Check)

043003 - DTC Check Clear.pdf
043004 - Check Mode Procedure.pdf
043005 - Diagnostic Trouble Code Chart.pdf

Perform an Actuator Check (Servo Check)

043006 - Actuator Check.pdf
 

Attachments

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A small piece of duct tape works wonders. But I figured out the sticky side should face towards the ratchet, not away from the ratchet (as shown in photo).

Then take the screw and press it snugly into the socket. It works like a charm to hold the screw, if you don't have a magnetized socket. And when you're done putting the screw in, the tape comes out with the socket, instead of sticking to the screw.

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holy cow this is a badass thread. A lot of effort went into making this thread so a huge THANK YOU to the OP.

Can someone place this thread as a sticky or in a FAQ section?
 
NICE! the last part showing the MODE alignment is what ive been looking for ever since removing the MODE servo to replace my thermal expansion valve on the AC. I goofed up the sync of the prongs and when reassembled it was stuck on one mode and wont change modes.

THANK YOU! gold metal post
 
The City Slicker needed only one ac servo: 87106-35170 (Limited Only) which was on the drivers side of the blend box so easy to get at. Luckily, there was a '04 Limited at the JY so my cost was $14 plus my mostly worthless shade tree labor. It's been good for two years now, knock on wood.
 
The City Slicker needed only one ac servo: 87106-35170 (Limited Only) which was on the drivers side of the blend box so easy to get at. Luckily, there was a '04 Limited at the JY so my cost was $14 plus my mostly worthless shade tree labor. It's been good for two years now, knock on wood.

SO you were only having an issue with the left side AC, right side was working OK?

What were the symptoms/issue?
 
SO you were only having an issue with the left side AC, right side was working OK?

What were the symptoms/issue?

Yup, just that one servo. It was constantly running and making plastic on plastic grinding noise maybe because the position sensor was broken. It was like that when I got the truck. Did not notice any functional issues maybe because of how fast the repair was completed. That grinding noise drove me nuts, lol.
 

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