What should I inspect on an 07 4Runner as a new owner?

jow · Dec 25, 2010

I purchased a Certified 07 4Runner (V6, 2WD) yesterday with 43k mi. I plan to look it over closer in the next few days (after some rest and better weather. Please give me some tips on what I might look for during my closer inspection. I own a 1993 Ford explorer the last 15 yrs that was totaled due to the main dash wiring hoariness fried due to a bad switch.

I purchased the 7-yr/100,000-mi bumper to bumper warranty because my wrenching is not as much fun after wrenching since 1968. I respect vehicles and like to service them or have them serviced properly. The 4Runner is new to me and I feel there are some things I should check as a new owner. What? Thank you in advance! jow

ALTAHLC · Dec 25, 2010

First, I would get an alignment and have the brakes looked over. I would then make certain to change the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids.

Not a critical item, the plugs need changing every 30K and you can do this yourself. There is a great link here that takes you to a Tacoma site that walks you through it. I would recommend buying the plugs at the dealer.

jaxbusa · Dec 25, 2010

Welcome. Look for excessive rust areas.

jow · Dec 25, 2010

I think I did OK but felt mislead on the poster price. 18,000 Certified (if the SUV was honestly inspected and serviced). This led me to think I only, needed to add TTL to be close to my 20,000 goal . NO! They added 6,500 that included paying for the 160 inspections/labor that qualified the certification, the bumper to bumper 7 yr/100,00 mi vs just drive train, TTL and every fee you can think of was added totaling 24,500. When the smoke cleared, I drove away for 23,000. Does this sound fair? I felt I was mislead but at the same time from 4 months of looking the average 07 Certified started about 23,000 w/o TTL.

Good tips on the inspections and I doubt they inspected the SUV well, due to2 problems we have found. Which is causing me to start my list of problems to report and return for adjustments in a week. I’ll also ask for a copy of their list of the 160-point inspection, results and verification of the Tech that made the inspections.

Two problems are indicating a lack of the inspections (first 2 listed):

1. The SUV’s alignment or tires are pulling on the Hwy causing me to work to keep it tracked. Do you think that could be a tire issue with new Yokohoma Geolandair H/T.S p265/70R16 11S tires on it?

2. The rear left turn siginal is out (discovered from the fast flashing sound).

3. I was told the engine oil was changed and it appears and documented but no other fluids, plugs or other work was documented as bringing it up to date.

4. No signs of rust, my goal was to deal with TX SUVs only away from the coast.

Hopefully it will be just the little things (as can be with new cars) that I have had initially with many of my used cars and move on. jow

ran · Dec 26, 2010

My signal starting flashing fast. I managed to feel the lite socket was loose on the drivers side front. fun to reach for.
_________
'07 SE V6 4x4

Ducman · Dec 27, 2010

Hmm

Well congrats on the T4R but I would have run out of that dealership if they tried any of that BS with me.

In my opinion you overpaid... The good news is you walked away with a great truck though. :cheers:

THEROK · Dec 27, 2010

look guys, there's no gusto in an inspection performed by the person or entity selling you the product. why? they don't have your best interests in mind. so these dealer certifications mean jack and if they're charging u for it, it's highway robbery.

next time, have a third party, someone you pay, do the full inspection or what we call a PPI (Pre purchase inspection) prior to buying. we're talking about looking at everything top to bottom including a paint analysis with a gauge.

you took a risk here and who knows if it's really never been in an accident?

jow · Dec 27, 2010

Should I have received a copy of the 160 inspections and services that certified the T4R? I can see the new tires and oil. I asked when is the next scheduled maintenance due. I was told at 5,000 mi a tire rotation and engine oil change is needed. Looking at the past maintenance records the plugs w/n spelled out as changed at 30,000 mi vs all routine maintenance were done. I’ll ask why they d/n change the plugs since it was to be sold up-to-date. Honestly I’m surprised at the recommended 30,000 vs 60,000 – 100,000. I’ll hope to get the minor transitions behind me w/o finding any major problems.

With the T4R being Toyota Certified I felt I could take it to my closest dealer 7 mi vs 30 mi where I purchased. I was told I could I could take it to any now for drive train issues. Initially, bumper to bumper issues has to come back to them to avoid a 100.00 deductible. After the initial issuers are settled, I’ll challenge going to the closest dealer due to the 30 mi being an hours drive during fair traffic. There are yearly benefits that comes with the certification (2 details, car washes and etc) that would not be reasonable to drive 30 mi for.

Thanks in advance on any info related to Bumper To Bumper Certification Inspections/Services and Dealer Privileges. jow

PS. From 3 past Toyota experiences I knew charging for the inspection was a game to push the price up and labor charges were removed. The 43,000 mileage checks out with the yearly State Safety Inspections records. There are no planned services at my expanse above routines (oil changes, tire rotations and etc) if needed the next 7 yrs.

jow · Dec 28, 2010

Today’s General T4R Inspections went well: (I was the inspector 70/80s with Sun’s Eqp).

1. All disc pads as tires are new, there has to be a way to see them w/o pulling wheels.
2. The frame and suspensions at all 4 wheels looked good.
3. The rear-end’s oil looked good. What causes the pressure build-up I had to bleed-off?
4. The engine and trans pans had no signs of leaks.
5. Front and rear U-joings felt and looked good.
6. The engine compartment is spotless, the engine sounds good, w/o a compression test.
7. All inspections were documented w/pics for future use and Pic w/sound on the motor.

So far all is good. BUT! I’ll still ask why were they trying to charge me for un-documented inspections/services when it was clear the rear-end’s plug h/n been pulled and no under-coat and etc but there were new tires and brake pads. They played with numbers to void the charges that maybe we can play with as a refund for my efforts. I hope the alignment shows a problem that is easily corrected to end these matters. I need to retire these tools for the next 15 years as my 70’s floor jack, jack stands and torque wrench asked, “I thought we were retired”! jow

jow · Dec 29, 2010

Is the T4R rear-end not venting a common issue? This is my 1st rear-end to see pressure in after owning 2 Jeep Wagoneers about 20 yrs. I’ll have to cleanup my inspection since I’m going back to dealer this week related to the pulling alignment and heavy plastic mats that were shown (but not delivered). I haul STUFF due to handyman work and volunteering requiring tools. The cargo heavy rubber mat is better than my hard ASB formed plastic shell that is not tailored not to mention my truck shell for hauling firewood. The T4R will love the care and Stuff we’ll do and both of us will be thankful that I'm slowing vs 4 cords of wood. LOL jow

Ridger · Dec 29, 2010

Congrats on the purchase... looks great, especially the color. :bigok:

CAFROG · Dec 29, 2010

Ducman said:
In my opinion you overpaid...

I think the biggest discrepancy is location in the states. I have seen some crazy low priced 4Runners in other states (I'm in CA) and his '07 SR5 V6 4WD with tow package and roof rack for a CPO from Toyota on KBB.com in my zip code....$27,040 with the mileage he posted. So we are not comparing the same thing when we talk about price someone paid versus Wisconsin 4Runner prices.

In terms of the Add ons he saw from the price he thought.....OP.....how much was it to extend your bumper to bumper warranty to 2014 or 100,000 miles?? (and yes its which ever comes first) I am guessing that was well over $2500 and yes they bent you over a little if they didn't reduce that. I paid $1600 more (also Toyota CPO) for a warranty until mid 2012 or another 46K miles. Registration, title, taxes, etc.......that crap adds up and hurts to see

I hope you are enjoying the ride (its the whole point!) and I have a theory that the gold color are the cleanest 4Runners out there. Young, dumb, and full of.....they like black, red, white, silver. But gold? Not so much. A more mature person goes for that color so it means (according to my theory) the gold 4R has been taken care of very well. I would have bought one but got lucky with my white one.

Ducman · Dec 29, 2010

Ducman said:
In my opinion you overpaid... The good news is you walked away with a great truck though. :cheers:

CAFROG said:
I think the biggest discrepancy is location in the states. I have seen some crazy low priced 4Runners in other states (I'm in CA) and his '07 SR5 V6 4WD with tow package and roof rack for a CPO from Toyota on KBB.com in my zip code....$27,040 with the mileage he posted. So we are not comparing the same thing when we talk about price someone paid versus Wisconsin 4Runner prices.

I understand that prices can and do range from state to state, however I stand by my original opinion that $27k is a little high for a used, gold, cloth, 3 year old, v6 4runner.

CAFROG said:
I hope you are enjoying the ride (its the whole point!) and I have a theory that the gold color are the cleanest 4Runners out there. Young, dumb, and full of.....they like black, red, white, silver. But gold? Not so much.

:shrug: ??? Wow, interesting way for a new member to label the majority of 4Runner owners on this site.

Carl_G · Dec 29, 2010

Ducman said:
I understand that prices can and do range from state to state, however I stand by my original opinion that $27k is a little high for a used, gold, cloth, 3 year old, v6 4runner.

:shrug: ??? Wow, interesting way for a new member to label the majority of 4Runner owners on this site.

Yes mine is silver! Yet I am old(er) 42, smart (I like to think so)
And the previous owner of mine was about 55! Haha!

Btw regarding this post, independent inspection is a MUST. BEFORE purchasing!

They need to get the vehicle up on a hoist and go over it with a fine tooth comb, drive it, etc. And a Carproof to learn the history. But there's no point worrying about any of that now.

Just enjoy it and keep it maintained now. Congratulations.

Carl_G · Dec 29, 2010

jow said:
Todays General T4R Inspections went well: (I was the inspector 70/80s with Suns Eqp).

"general T4R inspections"

Please clarify this. Sorry if I missed it. Who is doing these inspections??

CAFROG · Dec 29, 2010

Ducman said:
I understand that prices can and do range from state to state, however I stand by my original opinion that $27k is a little high for a used, gold, cloth, 3 year old, v6 4runner.

He paid $23,000 OTD and my KBB.com research was for a cloth SR5. My point was your opinion is not putting enough constants into context. His car is worth what he would need to sell it for. So I think he's in decent shape.

Ducman said:
:shrug: ??? Wow, interesting way for a new member to label the majority of 4Runner owners on this site.

Twist it all you want. I stand by my opinion that gold cars will be less worn and less abused in general.

Ducman · Dec 29, 2010

CAFROG said:
He paid $23,000 OTD and my KBB.com research was for a cloth SR5. My point was your opinion is not putting enough constants into context. His car is worth what he would need to sell it for. So I think he's in decent shape.

Yes, $23,000 ... I stand corrected on the price. For some reason I was thinking he said he paid $27k...

CAFROG said:
Twist it all you want. I stand by my opinion that gold cars will be less worn and less abused in general.

Twist what? I was taking issue with your curious choice of words to describe typical 4Runner owners of the colors you mentioned, not your hypothesis about gold 4Runner owners.

Carl_G · Dec 30, 2010

The brown is very nice.

jow · Dec 30, 2010

The rear end vent inspection went well. I’ll suggest that you d/n disassemble it if it’s clean and presses down easily (to say it will seal etc out). It’s too hard to reassemble. I could blow out though it and c/n suck through it by mouth. I feel the excess amount of pressure I bled off initially was due to the size of the axle’s cavity volume vs high pressure. “Too much pressure can blow the rear axle seals and affect brakes”. That will end my initial inspections unless some one has some good suggestions. Without draining engine, trans, rear end oil and compression (as I did on older cars with my young body) I feel I inspected a few things the pros w/n. I call it Old School or protecting an investment. Attachments will show the vent on the left of the R/E, assembled and disassembled. A good tip I noticed and experienced, the fill-plug is soft, use a 6 point socket vs 12 and a break-over was ideal for me.

I’m use to packing basic tools (w/o an exposed tool box) and feel the towing hitch compartment should hold a reduced tool bag. That vacant spot under the hood (V6) on the passenger side really caught my eye (for tools or firewood) but I’ll be nice for now. LOL.

The Certified Bumper To Bumper Extended Warranty 7yr/100,000 mi is showing it cost 1,600.00 (after he finished playing with numbers. One other Toyota Dealer had quoted 1,500.00 for 2 yrs and 2,000.00 for 4 yrs on a non-certified T4R. jow

Carl_G · Dec 30, 2010

Wow! That is quite a comprehensive inspection so far. I have the urge to inspect my vent now. I suggest you check the black elastic that holds the cloth from the lower rear of the drivers and passengers seats to the underside of the seat. I found the elastics stretched over time, allowing the material to hang loosely, allowing for scuffs from shoes. I also found warm air from the heater ducts also didn't flow freely otherwise.

If you need to replace the elastics, you can purchase a similar -if not thicker/wider one- from a fabric store.

I cut the old elastic off, leaving about 3-4 inches of the old elastic in place. That way, one can secure the new elastic onto the old elastic which eliminates trying to stitch the new elastic onto the hard plastic edge on the cloth. (after estimating the length of course)

This will give the seat cloth a nice taught condition, as opposed to being stretched with age.

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