Audio Upgrade - Audio guys come in and help

I finally decided to upgrade the audio system in my truck. I currently have the base stereo. I went to a local shop to get this done, but the prices were crazy high, so I decided to DIY.

I have not messed with a car stereo in 30 years, so I'm a bit out of the loop and have been trying to get up to speed.....

My initial motivation for this was to add cameras for spotting... but I figured a better sound system would also make the truck more enjoyable.... I'm trying to keep it pretty budget oriented and not add a bunch of weight or lose much storage space...

I've already ordered quite a bit of stuff (listed below). Tell me what else I will need or should consider (besides power for the amp and misc connectors...). I'm hoping to setup the sub in the rear so that it is removable, but also mount to a bracket over the passenger side rear tire area. I plan to put the amp for it down inside where the power adapter.. is.

Head Unit: pioneer AVHX5700BHS AVH-X5700BHS - <b>NEW!</b> - DVD Receiver with 7" Motorized Display, Bluetooth®, Siri® Eyes Free, SiriusXM-Ready?, HD Radio?, Android? Music Support, Pandora®, and Dual Camera Inputs | Pioneer Electronics USA

Dash Kit: Scosche Dash Kit for 2010 Toyota 4-Runner

Wiring Harness: Metra 70-1761

Front Camera: BOYO VTK380HD http://www.amazon.com/BOYO-VTK380HD-Embedded-Style-Camera/dp/B00G23HB7Y
Side View Camera (to go under passenger mirror) : Coolint Mini 360 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P914W7C

Sub box: JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 micro sub CP108LG-W3v3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - MicroSub? - JL Audio

Sub amp: Kicker class D + CXRC remote bass control Kicker 12CX300.1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

Speakers: Planning on stock speakers for now.

One question. I want it wired up so that video... can be played even when the parking brake is not on. Is that going to be as easy as it seems like it should be? I noticed they sell special modules for this, but I can't imagine why you would need anything special to fake a switch...

I should have most of the stuff by the weekend and plan to start the install soon.

Tear it up! Not familiar with the specific pieces you have lined up, but should do the job. The W3 is a nice sub for the money. I'd personally do the whole system including the door/dash speakers and a descent 4-Ch amp (I'm just "somewhat" of an audio fanatic and lean towards multi-thousand watt active multi-way systems - so my suggestions are likely overkill for most normal humans)...

wfo9 said:

One question. I want it wired up so that video... can be played even when the parking brake is not on. Is that going to be as easy as it seems like it should be? I noticed they sell special modules for this, but I can't imagine why you would need anything special to fake a switch...

I should have most of the stuff by the weekend and plant to start the install soon.

Click to expand...

Yes, you will need a special Video Bypass Module thingy to emulate the special way you have to tell the HU you are in "park". I know with Alpines, it is some stupid pattern with floor brake and parking brake. You can't easily accomplish that sequence with hardware switches alone (at least not conveniently).

Unfortunately it's not as simple as sending a wire to ground...

Of course you realize pics will be required once you are done

Get at it and shout back with any Q's

Yea, I may change the speaker and run another amp at some point. I was going to see how this basic setup sounds first...

That explains why a special module is needed for the video bypass override...

One more quick question.. My truck has the Party mode button.... I know it just boosts output to the the hatch speakers, but how is that done exactly. Is it input to the stock head unit or an amp of some sort.... Just trying to figure out how that will factor into my install. I'm assuming most people just kill the hatch speakers with aftermarket setups?

I'll post my progress here or in another thread... I don't really have a build thread... Need to consolidate things eventually as the investment in this truck has started to get pretty high on both time and money.

OK, There is a way to bypass ur headunit so you can operate everything while driving or parking brake not engaged. With the pioneer units it's just a matter of relocating the yellow/black wire to another pin and grounding it with the parking brake wire. There is a site dedicated to pioneer units called avic411.com that will walk you through step by step.

Your system will sound pretty good with stock speakers since your replacing the head unit and adding the sub. You just need to make sure you tune everything correctly on the Pioneer mostly the hpf. Please feel free to pm with ?'s while tuning the pioneer as I have installed hundreds of them.

the metra kit you got should keep ur hatch speakers working just fine.

Have fun with all this.

RG79 said:

OK, There is a way to bypass ur headunit so you can operate everything while driving or parking brake not engaged. With the pioneer units it's just a matter of relocating the yellow/black wire to another pin and grounding it with the parking brake wire.

Click to expand...

You Pioneer guys have it easy! No such luck with Alpine and many other brands - you'll need the video bypass module...

As mentioned - audio is highly subjective - as are budgets. Spend wisely and you'll get a descent improvement over stock, but if you are looking for a nice step-up in SQ (Sound Quality) and dynamics, you'll end up doing all speakers and going with a multi-way setup...

I temporarily (2 weeks) ran the stock front 6x9"s and tweeters off a JL Slash 300/2 amp (was already running the Alpine W910 HU and H800 DSP with the W12GTi subs at that point), and it made a huge difference over the stock radio driving the same stock speakers (kept it clean or would have easily 'let the smoke out'!). Now with the Morel Elate / Integra front-stage in-place, it is just bonkers, and results are completely un-achievable with the stock speakers no matter what you have driving them...

Perspective - Must go hand in hand with budget. I can respect that in the end. System has over $10K all said and done - and most sensible humans would probably find that absurd (not me!).

One other point I will touch on - The front speakers are 6x9"s. Most people rip them out and slap 6.5"s in there.

Swapping to a "Better" 6.5" speaker will greatly diminish the available cone surface area from your front stage (means sacrificing output and low frequency extension). Get an 8" or 9" (like me), and then run some 3.5" or 4" (like me) in the dash. You'll end up with very strong midbass up front (critical to a well-anchored soundstage and good sound in general), and then getting the 300-500Hz and up range coming from the dash is very nice in these trucks.

Of course a good 6.5" sealed up in the door with a good chunk of power driving it will work fine - but just realize you are severely diminishing your total cone surface area compared to the stock speakers you just ripped out, yet very likely expecting MORE OUTPUT at the same time :nerd:

Thanks for the advice guys. I really don't plan to go crazy on the sound system, but I said the same thing about off-roading this truck when I purchased it and now I can't stop....

I think my last aftermarket stereo was in '94. The factory stuff has been pretty much good enough for me in recent years (up until this truck).

I walked into an audio shop asking for basically what I have purchased and they quoted me around 3k with the install. I think this setup will end up costing me around $800 and a few weekends of my time. I enjoy tinkering, so it should be a win win.

Randyman... said:

You Pioneer guys have it easy! No such luck with Alpine and many other brands - you'll need the video bypass module...

Click to expand...

I also run Alpine. Pac-Audio has a part tr47 that bypass Alpine's perfectly.

You can easily spend a ton of money on a stereo sometimes it takes a trained ear to even tell the difference between a 3k system to 10k system. This is assuming the component selection and installation was all done correctly.

RG79 said:

I also run Alpine. Pac-Audio has a part tr47 that bypass Alpine's perfectly.

You can easily spend a ton of money on a stereo sometimes it takes a trained ear to even tell the difference between a 3k system to 10k system. This is assuming the component selection and installation was all done correctly.

Click to expand...

Yep - Running the PAC over 'yander as well (the "video bypass module" I clearly referenced above)

Randyman... said:

System has over $10K all said and done - and most sensible humans would probably find that absurd (not me!).

Click to expand...

As mentioned - most humans find me absurd (on many different levels: Absurdly High-level SPL/SQL audio in every possible listening environment I spend time in at any cost being just one of the many hone: )

I'm indeed a hard one to crack...

You should read the 35 page Aftermarket Stereo thread.

Have you considered upgrading the door speakers with some mid quality speakers instead of the sub? You'll get more (and cleaner) bass than stock (which it sounds like you are looking for), but the high and mid range sound will improve dramatically. Infiniti makes a nice reference level component setup that I've used and was very happy. On the plus side, you won't lose storage space or worry about your sub box going through a back window while you're wheeling (yes, it happened to my 3rd gen LE on the rubicon).

Randyman... said:

As mentioned - audio is highly subjective - as are budgets. Spend wisely and you'll get a descent improvement over stock, but if you are looking for a nice step-up in SQ (Sound Quality) and dynamics, you'll end up doing all speakers and going with a multi-way setup...

I temporarily (2 weeks) ran the stock front 6x9"s and tweeters off a JL Slash 300/2 amp (was already running the Alpine W910 HU and H800 DSP with the W12GTi subs at that point), and it made a huge difference over the stock radio driving the same stock speakers (kept it clean or would have easily 'let the smoke out'!). Now with the Morel Elate / Integra front-stage in-place, it is just bonkers, and results are completely un-achievable with the stock speakers no matter what you have driving them...

Perspective - Must go hand in hand with budget. I can respect that in the end. System has over $10K all said and done - and most sensible humans would probably find that absurd (not me!).

Click to expand...

Dang man, I'd love to sit in your truck and listen to that system! I'm not as big of an audio nerd (haven't heard of some of the brands you mention), but do appreciate good sound. While I can't justify $10K on a system myself, I can understand and appreciate great audio. Wish I had the kind of cash flow where justification wasn't necessary, but unfortunately that's not the case. I've been a fan of the Harman line, mostly lnfinity and JBL, as that's where my "Price Justification" allows me to be. Audiophiles may cringe, but so far I haven't found anything that sounds better to MY ears that fit the budget. :music:

Audio is no different than offroading, racing, or any other hobby. You gotta "pay to play". And the deeper you get into it, the more expensive the game becomes.

One question I see come up a bit on the 4Runner, is what to do with the back speakers in the tailgate. Would running 2 amps (3 if you had a sub) work? I'm thinking a 2 channel amp for the fronts, a 4 channel for rear doors and tailgate, and one for the sub. Upgrading speakers in all areas of course.

Do the speaker covers in the dash just pop off? I'd like to replace the dash speakers as I listen to a lot of talk radio type shows and feel this would be a huge improvement. The stocks sound a little too boomy and tinny...

Dexter Morgan said:

Do the speaker covers in the dash just pop off? I'd like to replace the dash speakers as I listen to a lot of talk radio type shows and feel this would be a huge improvement. The stocks sound a little too boomy and tinny...

Click to expand...

This thread may be helpful: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...3-5-dash-speakers.html?highlight=unbelievable

intense1776 said:

Have you considered upgrading the door speakers with some mid quality speakers instead of the sub? You'll get more (and cleaner) bass than stock (which it sounds like you are looking for), but the high and mid range sound will improve dramatically. Infiniti makes a nice reference level component setup that I've used and was very happy. On the plus side, you won't lose storage space or worry about your sub box going through a back window while you're wheeling (yes, it happened to my 3rd gen LE on the rubicon).

Click to expand...

I was going for bang for the buck... and my previous car audio experience (from admittedly way back), told me that adding a powered sub was the best way to do that. It kind of changes the entire depth of the sound. I may upgrade the other speakers and put them on an amp as a phase 2.

As far as the sub box goes. The one I got is very small and light 8" (11x18x5 17lbs) and I plan to mount it in a secure way with wing nuts or something so it can be removed for special circumstances.

wfo9 said:

I was going for bang for the buck... and my previous car audio experience (from admittedly way back), told me that adding a powered sub was the best way to do that. It kind of changes the entire depth of the sound. I may upgrade the other speakers and put them on an amp as a phase 2.

As far as the sub box goes. The one I got is very small and light 8" (11x18x5 17lbs) and I plan to mount it in a secure way with wing nuts or something so it can be removed for special circumstances.

Click to expand...

I think you'll regret that decision. The door speakers are around the same price you'll pay for the sub+amp+wiring+box+mounting hardware. New speakers will use the factory wiring (cut and solder) and the deck you're looking at will power them without a problem for now.

The problem with adding a sub only is that you tend to lose some of the range. Most HPF/LPF's can be set to 63 Hz, 80 Hz, 100 Hz, and (sometimes) 120 Hz. Standard (reccomended for a sub) is 80 or 100 Hz. Your factory speakers probably won't handle frequencies that low (and still sound good). The gap will cause distortion, especially when you turn it up to 11.

Point is, your sub can't get high enough, and your factory speakers sound like crap that low, so you'll get a lot of distortion. The aftermarket speakers still sound good down to around 50 Hz so you'll have more depth than you do now, but it'll be cleaner. This is due to a stronger magnet in the aftermarket components, which gives you punchier, cleaner, deeper notes. You'll also appreciate hearing the nice guitar solo's like The Eagles- Hotel California live version. You'll be amazed at how much of your favorite songs you've been missing all these years.

Check these out: http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Two-...qid=1425491634&sr=1-4&keywords=infinity+kappa

And these: http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-629I...d_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TR9YRWT05FCCV3HVCXP

Verify the speaker sizes before you order. I'm just showing you some VERY nice sounding speakers. I love these things.

I just did mine.
1st- I switched dash and front door speakers, and to be honest, I was disappointed. (I replaced stock speakers with cheapie infinity) I was mad at my self:roadkill:
2nd- Few weeks later I added sub, it helped alittle but not to much.
3rd- Couple days ago I replaced dash stereo with Pioneer AVH-X3700BHS. And let me tell you, improvement is amazing!!! So far I am happy. I did bypass on my own, it was very easy. You just need a relay to by pass it. Of course those from "yabe" is smaller, takes less room behind the dash, but I just used regular size relay.
Good luck with install and don't pay anybody to install, it was pretty easy. Just buy all harnesses from them and do it on your own. It is almost "plug-and-play" deal.

Quick update on this. I Installed most of it about a week ago. I'm working on the side camera and a few other tweaks today. I'll post pictures later. It came out really good and was stupid simple. I did have to take the glove box out... to get to the firewall for a 4ga power run for the amp and the front camera. That was the only part that took some time.

I ended up with a micro bypass. The head unit was asking me to cycle the brake input from time to time while testing it so I just ordered one for $10 or whatever it was to not have to deal with it.

Overall, very pleased. Front camera utility on the trail last weekend was not that great, but I have adjusted it some and think it will be more useful now.

Sound is much much improved, but now I'm wanting to upgrade the front speakers. The highs just are not as crisp as I would like them. The bass is great so it sort of shows up the fronts now.

It's been a long time since I have had a good system in a vehicle. I'm liking it.

Suggestions on what to do for the front speakers? Ideally, I would just like to replace the dash and front door speakers with plug and play... But I'm willing to fabricate a bit if needed. Again, trying not to spend a bunch on the sound system....

Help. I am kind of in the same boat here except I upgraded the whole system except tailgate speakers. My 6.5 mb quart component just blew the woofer. Has anyone fit in 8inch in the doors I see a post about suggesting to do it but has anyone done it. I love the highs my tweeters provide and I thought by keeping the tweeters mounted on the Pilar sounds great but I dont want to spend more then 250. My amp has plenty of power 125 per channel. Am I looking for a specific 8inch to do this.

Pac TR-7 to do video bypass, also there are steering wheel control adaptors I have one made by Axxess, however the one to buy is the idatalink, seems to support more functions and is loads easier to set up.

I have had the Alpine ICS X7HD and the INE940 (current), my stereo build is in my signature.

no experience with Pionner since 2008 when I got so fed up with my pioneer I vowed never to buy another one.

Kenwoods also look nice and use garmin nav.

Alpine sounds the best to my ears but their interface is not that great and don't expect updates very often. but the unit boots up fast and responds quickly.