Do these inner CV boot fins look normal for 5100's set @ 2.5"?

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After nearly a month of meticulously reading through this forum educating myself I finally pulled the trigger on lifting my 2014 TEP. I also supplemented my research with a visit to Toytec in Colorado while on vacation and got lots of useful insight from Drew.

My truck is a daily driver but I also take it into the mountains almost every weekend and needed some extra clearance in addition to wanting to level out the factory rake.

Instead of a doing a 3/2 lift and adding a higher probability of CV boot issues at that height, I opted to go with the 5100's on all corners with the fronts set on the highest perch (2.5") and used a 1.5" Daystar spacer in the rear. In theory, this seemed like a good sweet spot with a little less cv angle.

Once installed at my local shop (GAS in Woodstock, GA - owned by another 4runner enthusiast, great shop) I took my after measurements. This revealed that I achieved closer to 3" of lift, not the expected 2.5". The rear gained closer to 1.75", not 1.5" as advertised by Daystar (although my research showed this was common).

The drivers side front also sits higher than the passengers side front after the lift (based on my before/after measurements-- not a result of lean). As a result the inner CV boot looks to have 2 fins touching on that side but it's similar on both. Although I have seen much worse on these forums, I'm concerned about this because it's a daily driver and I don't want to get stuck replacing or rebooting the CVs every 6 months.

Based on these photos, does this look like something I should be concerned about? I'm including photos taken 3 days apart to show some variation. Wheels are straight.

Is it true that the 2.5" lift setting on the 5100s is actually increased another 0.5" inch or so due to the shocks being longer than stock? I have read conflicting information about this and wasn't sure if the longer shock was already factored into the perch height calculations. I was really hoping for no more than 2.5" up front.

I just ordered the Toytec diff drop kit, but I'm also considering just re-doing the lift and dropping down to the "1.75 inch" perch and swapping to 1" Cornfed rear spacers. Expensive approach, but it might be the best solution. Alternatively, I just do the diff drop and hope it makes enough difference on the CV angle.

Could the alignment be to blame for the fins touching on the inner CV boot drivers side or is that just because of the higher lift height adding more angle to the geometry? I was watching them do the alignment, but when I returned from a phone call that distracted me the truck was off the rack. I got the report that it all aligned pretty close to spec, but that the printer wasn't working so I couldn't get an alignment report. The truck drives straight and doesn't have vibrations, etc so I wasn't too worried about the lack of an alignment print out. Now that I'm trying to trouble shoot why the drivers side lifted higher, I wish I had a print out to see how the alignment spec'd out on both sides.

Most importantly, does the inner CV boot look normal (i.e. not a ticking time bomb) and I'm just overthinking this?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Angles look pretty good to me, the ones on my FJ after a 3 inch lift were worse and I had a 1 inch diff drop, so I think you're good.
 
You are over analyzing it. Nothing to worry about at all. Diff drop makes no significant difference since it does not drop the diff. It angles it by dropping the front 1"t, which results in 1-2mm at the CV splines. . A real diff drop would would nice if they existed. To do it you would have to modify the cross member and that is not going to happen.
 
Nothing to worry about at all. Diff drop makes no significant difference since it does not drop the diff. It angles it by dropping the front 1"t, which results in 1-2mm at the CV splines.

Thanks for the reassurance. After lurking on these forums for so long (I previously owned a 2000 T4R 4x4 Limited) it feels great to finally communicate directly with members and help contribute.

I already ordered the Toytec diff drop kit and was aware that it isn't a true diff drop. From my reading, it seems that the "diff drop" is very debatable within this community, but ultimately doesn't really matter one way or another. I haven't come across any major drawbacks to installing it (besides slight clearance loss), so I'm thinking I'll go ahead with it for peace of mind and the few mm of favorable angle change on the CV splines.

With that said, I have not come across anyone with KDSS running the Toytec / Revtek / SS diff drop spacers. Is there any reason why the spacers might interfere with the KDSS swaybars? I think the OEM skid plate is the same for KDSS and non KDSS trucks, so hopefully the skid plate spacers fit back in without issue. I'll be letting my go to shop handle it, but would like to keep it inexpensive and simple from a labor perspective.

The instructions don't account for KDSS.
https://www.toyteclifts.com/images/stories/pdf_files/TAC-DR-05.pdf
 
drivers side inner CV - fins still touching

I installed the Toytec diff drop a week ago and it did make a noticeable difference. However, I still have a concern with the drivers side inner CV boot.

After the diff drop, the passenger side boots looks awesome. Almost like stock. No touching fins. Perfect.

The drivers side inner CV boot still looks the same as before the diff drop even though I can tell the axle angle did slightly change as expected. Something just looks off on that inner boot. It still looks like it does in the first picture at the top of this post, post lift / pre diff drop. The inner most fins have some touching and the boot just looks like it sits differently than the one on the passengers side.

I want to avoid doing costly CV replacements / repairs at all costs. According to the Toyota books it's not cheap or easy on the 5th gen as some people might say.

I have seen people remove the factory clamp on the boots to stretch them out a little and then reclamp. The truck has almost 40k on it, so I don't know if this is the cheap preventative fix or not knowing the boots are not brand new and could be a little extra brittle. If I stretch it out just enough to stop those fins from rubbing it could very well just slip back into place and/or end up leaking grease. Is it worth the trouble?

I'm tempted to take it into the dealership to see what they have to say. Surely they will blame the lift, but I figure it cannot hurt to get them to do a free inspection.

If I leave it as-is, what is the average labor and cost to reboot the inner CV boot on a 5th gen? My research shows it is best to just replace the whole assembly with the OEM part.

New pictures included. Green shows the passenger side that looks good. Red shows my concern on the drivers side inner boot.

Thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Installed this lift last weekend. I look to have similar issues... Haven't installed the diff drop yet, but I'll get some of the pictures uploaded soon for comparison. Just curious, did you get an alignment after the install?



I installed the Toytec diff drop a week ago and it did make a noticeable difference. However, I still have a concern with the drivers side inner CV boot.

After the diff drop, the passenger side boots looks awesome. Almost like stock. No touching fins. Perfect.

The drivers side inner CV boot still looks the same as before the diff drop even though I can tell the axle angle did slightly change as expected. Something just looks off on that inner boot. It still looks like it does in the first picture at the top of this post, post lift / pre diff drop. The inner most fins have some touching and the boot just looks like it sits differently than the one on the passengers side.

I want to avoid doing costly CV replacements / repairs at all costs. According to the Toyota books it's not cheap or easy on the 5th gen as some people might say.

I have seen people remove the factory clamp on the boots to stretch them out a little and then reclamp. The truck has almost 40k on it, so I don't know if this is the cheap preventative fix or not knowing the boots are not brand new and could be a little extra brittle. If I stretch it out just enough to stop those fins from rubbing it could very well just slip back into place and/or end up leaking grease. Is it worth the trouble?

I'm tempted to take it into the dealership to see what they have to say. Surely they will blame the lift, but I figure it cannot hurt to get them to do a free inspection.

If I leave it as-is, what is the average labor and cost to reboot the inner CV boot on a 5th gen? My research shows it is best to just replace the whole assembly with the OEM part.

New pictures included. Green shows the passenger side that looks good. Red shows my concern on the drivers side inner boot.

Thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Installed this lift last weekend. I look to have similar issues... Haven't installed the diff drop yet, but I'll get some of the pictures uploaded soon for comparison. Just curious, did you get an alignment after the install?

Yes, you absolutely need an alignment after installing your lift. Aim for even camber (0 should be easy to achieve with the 5100s at the highest setting) and as high as you can go on caster. I ended up at 2.8 caster. It will show red and out of spec, but now that your truck is lifted it doesn't use the OEM alignment specs anymore. My research on this forum shows you want +4 caster if you can get it... not possible without after market UCAs. My rig drives great after the correct alignment.

So, your drivers side inner CV boot looks more angled than the passengers side?
 
QUOTE=timelapse;2599025]Yes, you absolutely need an alignment after installing your lift. Aim for even camber (0 should be easy to achieve with the 5100s at the highest setting) and as high as you can go on caster. I ended up at 2.8 caster. It will show red and out of spec, but now that your truck is lifted it doesn't use the OEM alignment specs anymore. My research on this forum shows you want +4 caster if you can get it... not possible without after market UCAs. My rig drives great after the correct alignment.

Thanks for the caster/camber info! Hadn't checked T4R for that info yet... Glad to hear you're happy with the ride. Can't wait!

So, your drivers side inner CV boot looks more angled than the passengers side?[/QUOTE]

It's actually my passenger side that I noticed. I don't believe the driveshaft is at a different angle, but the pinched CV boot like yours.
 
You're being paranoid over nothing. Your CV angles were fine before and are fine now. The axle is going to move up and down constantly as you drive and the angles will constantly change causing the fins to rub together constantly. The CV Boot is specifically designed for this (two different materials for the boots, two different CV bearing designs, grease, and so on) and failing CV Axles due to angles has been next to a non-issue for 4Runners, lifted or stock (at least as far as I know for 4th & 5th gens). If anything the biggest issue is the inner CV Boot clamp starts to lose tension later in the vehicle's life (around 100k or so) and starts to seep grease out (when you take the boot off you'll notice that it's actually designed to slide slightly on the shaft to account for the CV axle pulling outwards and pushing inwards on suspension travel), eventually the rubber boot can start tearing at the smaller diameter clamp and it leaks grease.

Differential drops on these vehicles don't net much and are more for adjusting the angle of the driveshaft on the input side because as [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] pointed out it just tips the front down a bit.
 
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My CVs for comparison. No diff. drop.
 

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You're being paranoid over nothing. Your CV angles were fine before and are fine now. The axle is going to move up and down constantly as you drive and the angles will constantly change causing the fins to rub together constantly. The CV Boot is specifically designed for this (two different materials for the boots, two different CV bearing designs, grease, and so on) and failing CV Axles due to angles has been next to a non-issue for 4Runners, lifted or stock (at least as far as I know for 4th & 5th gens). If anything the biggest issue is the inner CV Boot clamp starts to lose tension later in the vehicle's life (around 100k or so) and starts to seep grease out (when you take the boot off you'll notice that it's actually designed to slide slightly on the shaft to account for the CV axle pulling outwards and pushing inwards on suspension travel), eventually the rubber boot can start tearing at the smaller diameter clamp and it leaks grease.

Differential drops on these vehicles don't net much and are more for adjusting the angle of the driveshaft on the input side because as [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] pointed out it just tips the front down a bit.

Thanks for the info. Helps put the mind to rest!
 
You're being paranoid over nothing. Your CV angles were fine before and are fine now. The axle is going to move up and down constantly as you drive and the angles will constantly change causing the fins to rub together constantly. The CV Boot is specifically designed for this (two different materials for the boots, two different CV bearing designs, grease, and so on) and failing CV Axles due to angles has been next to a non-issue for 4Runners, lifted or stock (at least as far as I know for 4th & 5th gens). If anything the biggest issue is the inner CV Boot clamp starts to lose tension later in the vehicle's life (around 100k or so) and starts to seep grease out (when you take the boot off you'll notice that it's actually designed to slide slightly on the shaft to account for the CV axle pulling outwards and pushing inwards on suspension travel), eventually the rubber boot can start tearing at the smaller diameter clamp and it leaks grease.

Differential drops on these vehicles don't net much and are more for adjusting the angle of the driveshaft on the input side because as [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] pointed out it just tips the front down a bit.

I know and I thank you and the others who contributed to this thread for helping confirm that everything is just fine. It provides added peace of mind.
 
Differential drops on these vehicles don't net much and are more for adjusting the angle of the driveshaft on the input side because as [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] pointed out it just tips the front down a bit.

Yes, and one thing to add, that most people don't think about. The front driveshaft is a single u-joint design. Not a CV double style like the rear. The are designed to only run at parallel angles otherwise you get varying velocities (not constant velocity like a CV joint). Anyway, it is designed to run at a very specific pinion angle. The drop changes that and although it is a minor change, I think it weakens up everything a tad. No data to prove.. Just a gut feeling. I don't run one for this reason and the fact that it does not really change the CV angles enough to make it worth the risk. I would not say anyone is crazy to run one.. just see the potential downside greater than the upside...myself
 
It looks like the Driver boot is just more ''bunched'' up than the passenger side......at most I would hike it up and reclamp it if you still feel weird about it
 

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