H11 to H9 - if you did this let me know

khalid74120021 · Oct 25, 2019

Looking to do this mod until I get something else later down the line.

Can someone link to the exact light I would need on amazon for a 2017 TRD ORP please?

ElectroBoy · Oct 25, 2019

khalid74120021 said:
Looking to do this mod until I get something else later down the line.

Can someone link to the exact light I would need on amazon for a 2017 TRD ORP please?

Philips H9, Philips 9011. Amazon. Or your local auto parts store. Everything you need to know is in this thread:
How To: Headlight Bulb Conversion (H11 to H9 & 9005 to 9011)

Especially see post #122 and 123. Do this mod. It really works well.

bugkillr · Dec 18, 2019

So it seems that a GE130+ in a h11 and a standard H9 have similar output,,, has there been any updates on long term durability between the two? I know "high output " bulbs tend to burn out more quickly, what about the H9?

nimby · Dec 18, 2019

I did the H9 conversion.

Melted the shit out of my headlight.

Nah, just kidding. They work great!

tm965 · Dec 18, 2019

did this recently and there is a good improvement over stock. For ~$30, im willing to swap burned out bulbs ever 9 months to a year

wcslv · Dec 18, 2019

I did this conversion H11 to H9, I get my bulbs from Rallylights.com. Hella H9, They can make a plug for you to go from H11 to H9 that way you don’t have to modify the bulb each time or the plug. Just talk to Wil. I also have the 9011 in the high beams. The lights work so much better. The lights are better now than my wife’s Acura RDX 2019 with leds from the factory.

mostapo · Dec 22, 2019

I just did this on my 14 TEP and worth all $15 and one hour of my time. The difference in illumination is immediate and really should be the oem bulb. Another toyota miscue corrected.

Ripper238 · Dec 22, 2019

Just did the H9 conversion. Peace of cake and a huge difference at night. I cant see needing to do anything else. Especially since no headlight adjustment seems to be needed.

I love driving at night and do so quite often so ill be putting this to a good test. The 4R also seems to use a fairly heavy gauge wiring like the low beams using the same gauge wiring as the high beams. Its also only like a 20% increase in power so should be 100% fine.

I'm so glad i don't have to use my fogs anymore.

Ill be buying extra H9's just in case, but i will also keep my H11 in the 4R just in case.

drew hopkinth · Jun 14, 2020

I'm gonna do the swap tomorrow. But tonight (once it is dark enough) I'm gonna get some before pics to see what the difference in light output is like.

jayb52 · Jun 30, 2020

Anyone using the high performance H9s for a whiter light output?

Wolfman’s Brother · Jun 30, 2020

jayb52 said:
Anyone using the high performance H9s for a whiter light output?

I found Silvania’s mid-range Silverstar in a H9 (allegedly 4000k) but the Silverstar Ultra (4100) isn’t made in an H9 fitment, nor are their Silverstar ZXE bulbs.

Silvania makes quality stuff, but if PIAA or any others have something that’s supposedly a higher color temp I’d love to know about it. Although, the color temp they market and reality is always a bit apart.

00Sebby · Jul 2, 2020

Wolfman’s Brother;3511861 said:
I found Silvania’s mid-range Silverstar in a H9 (allegedly 4000k) but the Silverstar Ultra (4100) isn’t made in an H9 fitment, nor are their Silverstar ZXE bulbs.

Silvania makes quality stuff, but if PIAA or any others have something that’s supposedly a higher color temp I’d love to know about it. Although, the color temp they market and reality is always a bit apart.

These Hellas are slightly whiter and didn't make me cringe like the oem H11s did.

zoomzoom · Sep 3, 2020

Hey guys, looking for some feedback. I'm attempting to do the H11 -> H9 conversion. I trimmed 3mm off the big metal tab on the H9, and when test fitting it back into the lamp assembly, the H9 bulb seems to have some play and it doesn't fit as snug as the original H11. I noticed the modified H9 bulb also didn't turn back into the 3-tab socket as nicely as the H11. Is this your experience too? I'm worried when driving on wash-board gravel/rough roads the bulb may work itself loose. I don't know if it makes any difference, but I trimmed the metal tab with a side-cutter, so the cut isn't as clean as I hoped it to be (it has rough edges).

MREvo · Sep 3, 2020

I did this conversion last weekend and my H9s didn’t have any play, in fact they were quite snug. Check and make sure the o-ring is seated properly on the bulbs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jhalko · Sep 3, 2020

[MENTION=214852]zoomzoom[/MENTION] there shouldn’t be any play in them and I’d have the same concern of them coming loose and out. Maybe it’s the cut or hung up in the socket. I can’t remember how I cut when I did it but it felt as snug as standard bulb.

zoomzoom · Sep 3, 2020

MREvo said:
I did this conversion last weekend and my H9s didn’t have any play, in fact they were quite snug. Check and make sure the o-ring is seated properly on the bulbs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jhalko said:
[MENTION=214852]zoomzoom[/MENTION] there shouldn’t be any play in them and I’d have the same concern of them coming loose and out. Maybe it’s the cut or hung up in the socket. I can’t remember how I cut when I did it but it felt as snug as standard bulb.

Thanks for confirming the fit!

The O-ring seems to be properly seated.

I had used side-cutters to trim the metal tab, and now think it's the cut too. I think a Dremel is needed to clean up the edges for the fit to work. I'll try again on the weekend when I have access to a Dremel.

Smitty19TRD · Sep 4, 2020

I only cut the tab inside the socket. On Toyota's you don't have to trim the large flange tab. Mine were quite snug as well.

ElectroBoy · Sep 4, 2020

Compare the cut tab on the H9 with the original H11 bulb tab. You don’t want any sharp edges or burrs from cutting, clean them up with a fine toothed file. It doesn’t have to be perfect. I cut a little too much metal on this one but it still fit OK.

zoomzoom · Sep 4, 2020

Smitty19TRD said:
I only cut the tab inside the socket. On Toyota's you don't have to trim the large flange tab. Mine were quite snug as well.

Hi Smitty19TRD - I had initially tried installing the H9 without any cuts/alterations to the metal tab - I didn't have such luck making it fit though, so proceeded down the road on trimming flange tab.

ElectroBoy said:
Compare the cut tab on the H9 with the original H11 bulb tab. You don’t want any sharp edges or burrs from cutting, clean them up with a fine toothed file. It doesn’t have to be perfect. I cut a little too much metal on this one but it still fit OK.

Hi ElectroBoy - thank you for the pics - My cuts do have burrs on them - Unfortunately, I don't have a file to clean them up (I need to add so many tools to my tool collection ... LOL).

My trimmed H9 bulb looks like this right now:

I think once I get access to the Dremel this weekend, I can clean up the edges and it should fit snug? Do you think I may have cut off too much of the metal tab too? I followed some instructions I found that said to trim off 3 millimeters from the metal tab to make it fit.

ElectroBoy · Sep 4, 2020

You just need to get rid of that metal above the thin red line in the photo. Careful dremel tool work will do it. Or a file. Or maybe more small nibbles with your side cutter, if it’s got a sharp precise point. You’ll get it. Just pretend you’re doing brain surgery!

H11 to H9 - if you did this let me know

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