Recent content by KD5NRH

I've tried three known good readers of two different brands, and AutoZone and O'Reilly have tried theirs, with the same result. No data on any current PID, no stored codes (even with intentional problems to force a CEL) but clear codes will turn the CEL off. Guessing if that's not a wiring...

Looks like I probably just didn't get all the shipping grease off the rotors, or else had too much dirty hand gunk on the parts. Once traffic cleared up enough to get it out on the highway and do a couple slow 60-0 stops to burn everything off, it cleared up completely. Guess that also...

Probably the same guy that put the filter on with Loctite and an impact.

Since my OBDII port doesn't pass any data out, but can clear the CEL, and my DLC port appears to be miswired (no voltage on B+, but battery voltage on AB) I'm wondering if some previous shade tree mechanic literally got some wires crossed while repairing a harness. If there's a diagram with all...

Pretty much what it says: changed the front pads and rotors, and now it brakes smoothly right up until that last fraction of a mph, then there's a pretty good clunk as it just drops anchor. I can't seem to make it stop all the way quietly going forward. No issue in reverse. I didn't touch...

Are there different pinouts for this thing? Mine is missing the cap, so I just went through with a voltmeter, and the only place I found battery voltage was where your pic shows AB.

Same issue, 98 SR5. Never been able to keep it happening long enough to actually troubleshoot it, since it always starts working perfectly again within a few minutes. Of course it's the only window with only one switch, so no other to test it with. Doesn't seem like a dirty switch, because...

98 sr5.

Bicycle u-lock through a u-joint Bicycle u-lock through the other u-joint Fill the diff with JB Weld

Might as well add: My driver door open switch doesn't work, which I'm fine with since it means I'm not listening to annoying "reminders" when I get out to open or close the gates - this also means the alarm never sees the door open, though. Driver power lock motor is also dead, which I also...

Just had to do battery and alt at 340k, and still getting some of my aftermarket electrical hooked back up. Every time I disconnect and reconnect the battery, the alarm goes off. I don't mind the immobilizer, but the horn is infuriating when you've got your head under the hood. Obviously...

Got a link? I've been tossing around ideas for 3D printing a panel, so it's handy to see what others have come up with. I've also thought about just swapping the 12V socket in the back with one of those direct replacements with USB A, C and 20W PD, since pretty much everything I'd want to...

Still need to finish cleaning up the external USB and mic wires, toss the packaging from the various crap to help make it happen, and find where I dropped the other A/C knob, but with some creative bracket design and 3D printing, I got a 10" Android stereo mounted in the 98.

It was split when I did the fuel pump, but I left it on figuring that was better than nothing until I could grab some hose the right size. Anybody know what size it is? Much bigger than the 5/16" I had on hand, but dropping the tank repeatedly to trial and error it with various sizes doesn't...

I ended up pulling the filler hose off first and siphoning through there. 11 gallons total, only spilled about a pint. After all that, it took some spinning to get the lines filled and pressure up again, but when it caught, it coughed twice and then settled into a smooth idle. Took it for a...